924Board.org

SprintStar · Joined: 26 Aug 2003 Posts: 150

Hello Guys,

3 new problems.

I had the '81 Turbo die on me today. I wriggled the DITC box behind the radio and it run ok for a while till the 2nd thing happened.

I was in a traffic jam and since I wriggled the connector, it's been behaving ok. But then I started to misfire.... When the jam cleared, I stopped by the road shoulder to try redo the connector. And I heard a hissing sound. I opened the hood to see water misting and spraying out from behind and below the distributor (spark, not fuel) area.

I checked my coolant level in the expansion box. Max but clearly water was dripping down on the ground close to where the wastegate would be. Is the rear coolant flange leaking? How do I fix it? Remove and re-gasket?

And is there anyway to fix the DITC connector for good?

Last problem. After I filled up the tank I noticed a leak to the rear (rear is rear). It seems to come from quite high, so I doubt it's the fuel pump. Accumulator? Well, the leak seems to have stopped for a while. I will continue to monitor. Is there an overflow system?

Thanks and have a nice weekend!

Sprint.

jl924t · Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 214 Location: Surrey, BC Canada

The coolant leak could be you rear flange but could also be a heater core hose. There are 2 there. I would remove the intake manifold to fix. Fuel leak could be from the vent tube. There is a vent for the fuel tank or filler neck. The vent is a tube that exits behind the rear wheel, beside the drain tube for your sun roof. If it doesn't vent to the outside and it is left in the well you will smell fuel in the cab.
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1980 924 turbo

John Brown · Joined: 07 Nov 2002 Posts: 903 Location: Leesburg VA

The hoses behind the engine are very often never replaced until they burst. As mentioned above there are the 2 hoses which go into/through the firewall to the heater core; and there are the hoses and tubing which run to the crossflow tube (under the intake manifold. As you are about to find out: they are VERY hard to access. All I can say is good luck. And BELIEVE that since one has failed you should replace them ALL. Think about replacing the heater control valve while you are in there too. Since it will be out anyway check the functioning of any vacumn or temperature switches that are installed on the tube in your particular year.

Most likely candidates for fuel leaks. If only directly after filling, or, check it first cause it's the easiest to see: the drain line mentioned above. Runs from the rubber boot which surrounds the filler neck down to the inner fender will. The rubber boot cracks where the drain line attaches. Only solution is to replace the boot. You can access by lifting the carpet over the right (passenger) side well. Next on my list is the rubber 'S' or 'Z' shaped hose from the tank to the fuel pump. Easy to get at. Not so easy to get at is the general area above the fuel pump - not usual but look. Then on up to the fuel accumulator. Mounted to a bracket up on the crossmember right (passenger) side of the transmission. The bottom will be wet or dripping or stained or all. The fittings are difficult to get at (unless you pull the transmission). Use quality wrenches and try some penetrating oil for a few days.

The bad news. I made a recent discover pulling some tanks. The similarities make me think that even though my sample size is small the observations are valid still. All of these cars smell and we are forever talking about it. Some fixes seem to have reduced but not completely eliminated the odor problem on the older cars. There is a vent fitting exactly in the center front top of the tank. So not accessible without completely removing the tank. To this fitting is a very short (50mm) braided hose which connects to a plastic pipe. The pipe is triangular about 25mm on a side and runs to the right side of the tank then into another hose (which is the vent hose to the filler neck). The very short (50mm) braided hose is porus. I speculate that because it is so short and under some strain the movement and vibration cause it to breakdown faster than the longer hose of the same material. Because the fitting is in a recess the fuel which sloshes up and migrates through the porus hose just sits in the recess and smells. It never 'leaks' down so you would know about it!

I really don't see why the hose was not simply run the length. In which case I think it would still be good. (All the other hoses still look good after all these years.) There must be some reason as the plastic pipe is just to special. However, I note that the 944 plastic tank just uses a lot of hoses for the venting.

In any case. I may have stumbled onto a root cause for all those fuel fumes. Wish it were easier to get at.

SprintStar · Joined: 26 Aug 2003 Posts: 150

Smoothie · Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2003 2:54 am Post subject: Re: You may be right!

SprintStar · Joined: 26 Aug 2003 Posts: 150

Lizard · Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2003 8:49 am Post subject:

sprint dont frett, those hoses are not really all that hard to do, just pull everything that is in the way, ie, coil, vaccum limiter, anything like that
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3 928s,

numbbers · Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 11:42 am Post subject:

Well, if you haven't got to it yet, I have had both problems you seem to have. The coolant leak was from the hose that runs from the back of the engine to the heater control valve, and the gas leak was from the fuel accumulater right in front of the tank. As John Brown says, the hose is a Porsche only item and a PITA to replace. The accumulater was fairly expensive, around $100 US.
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1980 924 Turbo

SprintStar · Joined: 26 Aug 2003 Posts: 150

Smoothie · Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 2:59 am Post subject:

You should find a small screw in the bottom of the fuel accumulator. To check for a leak there, remove the screw. If fuel drips out, the accumulator's shot. (If it's rusty enough around the screw, you might remove it, but not be able to put it back.)
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

SprintStar · Joined: 26 Aug 2003 Posts: 150

SprintStar · Joined: 26 Aug 2003 Posts: 150

-nick · Joined: 16 Nov 2002 Posts: 2699 Location: Cambridge, MA

I would say the accumulator is related (if it is bad) but if you're having that much trouble with the warm start, then other components maybe leaking fuel pressure too. -fuel pump check valve, etc.

I concur that the heater core hoses are a PITA to replace.

-nick

Lizard · Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 9:00 am Post subject:

if you are replacing the old hoses anyway, CUT THEM out then just use a light amount of vasaline or grease to make the hose go on smoothly
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3 928s,

numbbers · Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 11:16 am Post subject:

Yes the accumulator can be related to the start problem, but it usually effects cold start also. I will dig through my old receipts and see if I have a PN for the accumulator.
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1980 924 Turbo