924Board.org

geddes66 · Joined: 10 May 2003 Posts: 129 Location: Bakersfield CA

OK, I have found an '80 931 in the junkyard. Miraculously, it has the oil cooler and all the associated plumbing intact. If I pull the whole system off, will it bolt into my '77 NA in an attempt to bolster my low oil on hot (100 +) days?

Thanks for the help.
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The Porsche is now my son's, my car is cooler, slower but cooler.

wdb · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 2024

new rod and main bearings are about $125 . I think you would be better off replacing them, instead of adding an oil cooler . I am not sure of the 924, but on chevies you can replace the rod and main bearings without pulling the engine , the rod bearings are easy , the main bearings a little harder to slip them in between the crank and the bearing seats .

Paul · Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2003 12:43 pm Post subject:

Nope, it will not bolt in since the starter is in the way.

-nick · Joined: 16 Nov 2002 Posts: 2699 Location: Cambridge, MA

Check out Vaughan's racecar notes on his site. You can use a VW sandwich adapter and buy a cheap cooler from racer parts wholesale, etc. It's much cheaper to put together than you might think- and a heck of lot easier than replacing the engine bearings! Besides, like Paul says, the 931 setup just won't fit.

You might want to grab the front valence from the 931- it has extra openings to get air to the oil cooler. Also check out how it is mounted, it's a nice package Porsche put together with the 931 cooler that you might want to duplicate.

-nick

Lizard · Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2003 3:09 am Post subject:

correct the 931 oil cooler puts the starter in the way,

www.alexroy.net he had retrofitted his 924 w/ an external oil cooler and filter too
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3 928s,

CMXXXI · Joined: 05 Nov 2002 Posts: 1939 Location: Vicksburg, MS

As noted, adding a stock oil cooler setup entails putting an adapter where the NA oil filter goes. This adapter mounts the oil cooler lines and the filter itself. In this photo you can see how things are arranged, and why it won't work as a bolt-on in a 924 NA setup.

(click photo for larger image)
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'79 Eurospec 931

augidog · Joined: 03 Mar 2003 Posts: 1360 Location: New Jersey

Lizard · Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 11:39 am Post subject:

as long as you have the right bearings it is easy, I would recommend pulling the engine to do so, it is possible to do it w/o dropping the engine but is way easier if you pull it.
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3 928s,

numbbers · Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 11:48 am Post subject:

It ani't easy.
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1980 924 Turbo

Lizard · Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 12:00 pm Post subject:

wdb · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 2024

the way I seen it done was , the front of the car was on stands . remove 1 motor mount bolt, loosen the other motor mount as much as possible without taking it off , its an anchor/pivot point .drop the pan , slide the pan back a little to get a jack to 1 side of the front of the engine , so the engine will lift to 1 side, so you can slide the pan to that side to get at the crank . you dont need to move the pan completely out of the way, if you can get clear access to the main bearing caps that will do . the rod bolts can be moved by turning the crank to rotate each rod into the clear after the main bearings have been replaced . with all the main bearings caps removed there will be a little play in the crank enough to slip the top bearings between the crank and bearing seats . you take an ice cream stick/tongue depressor shaped peice of wood to tap on 1 side of the old bearing to spin it so 1 side can be grabed to pull it out , then place new bearing agaist the crank and rotate and spin it in between the crank and bearing seat , its a tight fit , but you only need a 1/1000 of an inch or so more than the thickness of the bearing to push it into the space. ( make a fist with 1 hand and a C with the other, put them close together, thats similar to the crank and bearing seat , you slide the new bearing into the space between them ). the one closest to the clutch is the hardest , because there is less play there, with all the front bearing caps removed, you can move the crank a little to get the needed clearence , support the crank so its wieght doesnt hang on the clutch assembly . when you jack up the motor ,have some one keep an eye on the feul line,water hoses,wires , so you dont break anything , there is enough space between the clutch assem and the trans tunnel (the body) to get the room you nned . not simple ,but easier and faster than removing everything and pulling the motor .

wdb · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 2024

I was thinking about this and thought there might not be much play in the engine to lift and twist it to get enough room to move the pan out of the way , because of the solid mount of the trans and the rigid connection between the engine and the trans . anyone have any thoughts on this ,or plan to try it .

Joes924Racer · Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2003 3:21 pm Post subject:

'Not me' the clutch lever gets in the way of the pan
remember I replaced rings with the motor in
the car....So your gonna try and replace the crank
with the motor in the car ...good luck

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1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.

geddes66 · Joined: 10 May 2003 Posts: 129 Location: Bakersfield CA

Thanks for all the help. Just one more question. If the turbo line was not connected coulndn't you rotate the thermostat/filter assembly downward such that it clears the starter. I don't know Im just looking at CMXXXI's post with the picture.
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The Porsche is now my son's, my car is cooler, slower but cooler.

CMXXXI · Joined: 05 Nov 2002 Posts: 1939 Location: Vicksburg, MS