924Board.org

[augidog]

I wonder if like brake lines -the clutch master cylinder should be bled for new fluid.
By the way, where is it?

Also, I noticed that after a long highway drive, the clutch seems to need a little more push on the pedal to engage, just a little.
Is this a symptom of anything?
Thanks
_________________
1978 924 95 mile daily driver.
Audi TB/POR174M/High Flow Cat/2.25" exhaust
I knew that positive thinking thing wouldn't work.

[Roger]

I belive that the 924 do not have hydroylic clutch's. Ours are manual clutch's. I have heard that the clutch cable can be lubricated but I am not sure how to do it.

Replacing the brake fluid every 30k is a good idea. Brake fluid absorbes moisture and can cause gunk or rust to build up in the calipers and wheel cylinders.
_________________
1981 924 NA

Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but you
still can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs.

[augidog]

I better stop looking for it .
any ideas on -the warm engine- more clutch question?

[Roger]

No ideas on the warm clutch problem sorry.
_________________
1981 924 NA

Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but you
still can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs.

[OR_Sunset]

You can do the following without removing the clutch:

Check the thickness of the clutch disc and make sure it is nice and clean.

Measure the distance between the pin on the clutch lever and the bracket that hold the cable. Around 138mm is good. I like mine a little less than that for better pedal response.

Make sure the friction plate bolts have the right amount of torque on them.

I really don't know what other components would be affected by heat other than the disc. If you are able to remove the clutch and flywheel, you can make sure the rear oil seal isn't leaking oil into the bellhousing, which can cause clutch problems.

And no, there are no hydraulics in the 78 NA clutch mechanism.