924Board.org

[Chrenan]

Hello Everyone,

About that time of year to think about storage for the winter. I think I have everything planned out, but I have a question about upper cylinder lubrication. I've heard it is a good idea to pull the plugs, spray some lube into the upper cylinders and replace the plugs for storage. It is supposed to reduce rust formation on the cylinder walls. Is this true? Is it a good or bad idea? Anything I should be aware off? Is there a particular product for this?

Thanks,

Chrenan
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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

[D Hook]

I know when I take the boat in to have it winterized they fog the cylinders to keep out the rust. Never a problem. A bit of smoke on spring start up but that's about it.

OTOH, I store the car every winter and usually just do the stabilizer in the gas tank, fill the tank, do an oil change and make sure the antifreeze is still good and keep the cover on it w/a trickle charger hooked to the battery. (Sears has a very nice one, btw.) Every 30 days or so I'll go over and start it and, if the roads are okay, I'll drive it for a little while. At least let it idle for abit, just enough to get the fans to cycle a couple times.

Anyone else have some tips for winter storage?

[wdb]

heres a few more suggestions

http://924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=166&highlight=storage&sid=0ee88b4675bbbe1024a197b3490fce65

[NINEEAGLES]

if you are putting it on top of a concrete floor put plastic sheeting down (visquene) or plastic drop cloth down to keep moisture from wicking up into the undercarriage....some people put the car up on blocks under the suspension and some don't....instead they put a few extra pounds of air pressure in the tires to keep them from flat spotting....there are products made like little rubber cradles to put under the tires but they are damn expensive for what they are.....I just put about 40 lbs in the tires and still I move the car every few weeks to prevent this.....besides the gas teatment and oil change and anti-freeze I also drop the windows about a 1/2 inch and cover the car....I put some moth balls around the car to help keep out the critters and put a plasic bag over the exhaust and intake to prevent critters from making a winter home....
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79 924 "Missy Grey"

[Lizard]

you shouldnt need to but if you are worried about it, pull the plugs and put a couple of drops of oil in the cyl, then manually turn the engine a couple of revolutions, but if it is going to sit for anything less than like 6 months I wouldnt worry about it, although, I would go and fire up the car ever couple of weeks to a month
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3 928s,

[jl924t]

Store? Best not to store vehicle. Remove front valance and convert to snow plow and avoid any drifts over 4' deep, especially around the municiple airport. Get some smaller rear tires and install chains. Do not forget fuel line antifreeze or your lines will look like sausages if they do not split. You may have a heated garage but if you loose power for a few days you will have to keep the engine from freezing like we used to do in the old days by lighting an oil fire in a can under the oil pan. I lived in Edmonton for 17 years and know their winters well.

[Richard]

I diasagree about starting the car every month. Once you fog the cylinders (wd-40 works great) don't start the car. Short run times means condensation in the crankcase mixes with blow-by and forms acid which ruins soft bearing surfaces cams and mufflers. The car is either stored or it isn't, no in betweens. Yes, trickle charge the battery. I'm not so sure it matters with today's tires to jack up the car. Was true with older bias tires though as they would get a flat spot. Wash and wax the car really well, than cover it if you want. In some very windy places a cover can do damage by chaffing the paint though. Seal up the tailpipe and put bags of dessicant in the air cleaner. Cancel your insurance if your policy allows to save money. I can do this but I have to keep paying a small nominal fee to keep the policy active.

At start up, disconnect the ignition and crank the engine untill you get positive oil pressure on the gauge. This probably the most important thing you can do. Check for the correct way to do this because some electronic ignitions will fry if they can't send a spark to ground.

[Chrenan]

Thanks for the tips everyone,

Fuel anti-freeze I hadn't thought of. Is that the same as fuel stabilizer? I always put stabilizer in engines that don't run for a while (like the lawn mower), I am a little obsessive about trying to make things last.
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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

[jl924t]

If you are storing the car in a fairly warm location you probably won't need it but if you get a few weeks of -30 the condensation in the fuel tank and any water that gathers in say the fuel filter will freeze. When you get the wide temperature ranges during the winter months there does seem to be a lot of condensation. Stabil may eliminate that but I have never used it. During my years of residence in Edmonton it was a habit to use fuel line antifreeze from October to March and always carry your lock deicer in your pocket, do not leave in vehicle. Needless to say that fuel is a much better product now than it was back then.

[Chrenan]

jl924t,

Thanks for the tips, it's always nice to hear from the Edmonton guys (or ex-Edmonton). Still getting used to the winters here, I came out from Ontario. The 924 will be in my unheated garage, so I might look into some fuel anti-freeze to be safe.

Lock de-icer is a must. I grew up in Thunder Bay where there was a lot more snow and moiture and I often had to use the de-icer. Pissing on a car door lock is just not an option at -35 when there is a strong wind...
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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

[Which car to buy?]

[geezergary]

depends ! But it wo'nt fix the lock.
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Any fool can say 'it won't work"

[D Hook]

What method do you use for fogging the cylinders?