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Slop in new bushings? (931 shifter rod at trans, snailshell

 
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keith  



Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Posts: 24
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2003 2:43 pm    Post subject: Slop in new bushings? (931 shifter rod at trans, snailshell Reply with quote

Ok, so I just put new bushings in the shifter linkage at the transmission on my snailshell tranny, and the new bushings allow for considerable (in my opinion) slop. Is this correct?

Any ideas on tightening this up even further?

TIA.
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keith
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CMXXXI  



Joined: 05 Nov 2002
Posts: 1939
Location: Vicksburg, MS

PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2003 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you replaced the pair of bushings, was the assembled joint nice and tight? Is the "knuckle" properly aligned on the shift shaft, so the conical head bolt engages the hole and is it securely tightened? Did you also replace the shift guide rod's rear anchor bushing? Did you get the overall length and angle correct if you did replace it? It is like a little "cup shaped" end on the guide rod that fits over a small ball-shaped stud toward the end of the torque tube. (left-most photo below, resting atop of, but not engaged on the ball) (Click photos for larger images)


I believe other than this anchor bushing and the "knuckle" bushings you just changed out, the only other things that will induce "slop" are up there at the actual shifter lever.

Both the guide rod and the shift rod have a couple of small bushings that fit over the pins on the "head end" of the rods that go into the actual shift lever. They are pretty thin plastic cylinder-like things that go between the pins and the actual holes in the shifter. The last piece is the "head end" bushing for the guide rod. It's held in place by two bolts you can see/access when you remove the shifter boot and bezel.

Having been inside the transmission, I can't think of anything that would induce "slop" inside the gearbox. The input shift shaft, selector shaft and shift forks are all shafts that go into holes machined in the actual casing of the transmission. It's highly unlikely that these shafts/holes have worn to any degree. If you've broken the roll pins that secure the forks to the shafts, you wouldn't get any shifting at all (and I can't imagine how they would shear off anyway).
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keith  



Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Posts: 24
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2003 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bushings in the last picture - the two cylindrical ones. These are too large, ID. The pin moves freely in them. I believe I must have ordered the incorrect part. The part number on my bushings started with 911, not 914, but I thought it was a supercession...
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numbbers  



Joined: 05 Nov 2002
Posts: 1910
Location: Highlands Ranch, Colorado

PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2003 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, they should be a tight fit, and there should not be a lot of slop in your shifter. The shifter on the snailshell is pretty tight.
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CMXXXI  



Joined: 05 Nov 2002
Posts: 1939
Location: Vicksburg, MS

PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2003 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to hear that yours don't fit correctly. It's a big job for a couple of small plastic/rubber doughnuts, isn't it?! They should be a tight fit on that cross pin, just easy enough to put on the pin by hand. They fit in the cage easily but with no "play".

I got mine through Pelican Parts for about $15 a pair + S&H. Their part number is C-424-223-90, located under the 914 parts ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/9144/por_9144_pedals_main.htm , about the 4th from the bottom ). I think that someone else on Board got theirs from PartsObsolete up in Oregon.

There was a fair amount of discussion on these puppies about 6 months ago, and three different part numbers came up. We never figured out what the real difference was. (Speculation - one number was for a single, one for a pair, one was a superceeded number, etc) FWIW, I have it in my notes as: 911.424.223.90
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