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bodywork and paint

 
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jpab924  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 1538
Location: Crown pt. IN. 50 miles southeast of Chicago Ill.

PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2003 7:57 am    Post subject: bodywork and paint Reply with quote

Ok, since the engine is running, I`m starting on bodywork. Should I just block sand everything down, or strip with a chemical stripper down to bare metal? If I do go to bare metal, I was planning on finding some zinc chromate to use as the primer.

On the misc. dents, fiberglass or bondo? I`m not going to rush through the bodywork, and I am in no hurry. Just trying to keep myself busy.

Once I get done with the bodywork, I may attempt to spray it myself, I`m not certain yet. Hmmm I probably will spray it myself. What type of paint? enamel, laquer?

Time to move on to the next learning phase!
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924martinirossi  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 605
Location: Seattle, Washington, USA

PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2003 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are good with the hammer and dolly you will need very little bondo.

1. Use a DA sander on the whole body.
2. Take care of the dents with the hammer/dolly.
3. Do the bondo thing.
4. On big flat surfaces use an air board.
5. Spray black primer at a sharp angle to find the high and low spots around the bondo areas.
6. Block sand (wet) the entire car.
7. Wipe car with a degreaser and then use a tack rag on it
8. Spray high quality primer.
9. Check once again for high and low spots using above method.
10. Wet sand primer.
11. When you believe it is as smooth as the windsheild glass, check and sand again.

I have always sprayed enamel, but I know you can spray laquer with a windex bottle and produce great results.

Michael
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jpab924  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 1538
Location: Crown pt. IN. 50 miles southeast of Chicago Ill.

PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2003 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Michael...

I have access to a da sander, what grit should I start with? 180, 200?
And do I sand down to the primer or just scuff the paint? I can`t see going to bare metal on the whole car with a da.

I also have a body dolly and hammer, I already popped some of the smaller dents out. I have some fist sized dents in the roof. Courtesy of p.o.
If I could pull out the perfect headliner in one piece to get to these from underneath I would. I may just tack weld a washer to the dents and pull them from the top.

What is an air board? And one more thing, if I use enamel, is there a specific primer to use for enamel vs a diff. primer used for lacquer?
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924martinirossi  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 605
Location: Seattle, Washington, USA

PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2003 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have access to a da sander, what grit should I start with? 180, 200?

On my car I would start on the entire body with 320 in the DA. The trick is to have no swirl marks when the final coat is dry.

And do I sand down to the primer or just scuff the paint? I can`t see going to bare metal on the whole car with a da.

Basicly scuff the paint. My final wet coat sanding is done with 480

I also have a body dolly and hammer, I already popped some of the smaller dents out. I have some fist sized dents in the roof. Courtesy of p.o.

If I could pull out the perfect headliner in one piece to get to these from underneath I would. I may just tack weld a washer to the dents and pull them from the top.

What is an air board? It is an air operated flat sander sorta looks like a giant file with handles on it. You use different grits on it. Since it does not orbit it leaves a nice smooth oneway sanding mark, it's like power block sanding.

And one more thing, if I use enamel, is there a specific primer to use for enamel vs a diff. primer used for lacquer

There is a difference. Go to a bodyshop supply and talk about the best primer to start with. I suspect that Porsche used enamels on all the cars, so you might want to stick with that and not chance problems with spraying laquer over enamel.

Michael
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