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It won't start - 1981 924 Non-Turbo 5-Spd
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Rprimm  



Joined: 15 Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 1:03 pm    Post subject: It won't start - 1981 924 Non-Turbo 5-Spd Reply with quote

I posted before in the wrong section and I got some help but I still can't seem to get it running so I guess I'm going to repost here.

So I bought a 1981 924 (Not the turbo) a couple of months ago and I'm having a little trouble starting it, so I just wanted to see if anyone has any ideas or tips for me. Here's where I'm at now:

I bought it knowing the fuel pumps were bad, so I drained the fuel tank, replaced them both, and put a couple gallons of fresh gas in it. Along with that I have replaced the air filter, fuel filter, and spark plugs. I cleaned the fuel injectors and tested them by hooking them to the fuel lines and spraying them into a cup so I could see if they were spraying. They all sprayed an even amount of gas. I also tested each spark plug wire and they all produce spark. I really have no idea why it won't do anything. The only thing that occasionally happens is I will hear a pop/tick and the throttle body and air boots will have smoke all through out them.

I guess the first thing I need to make sure is that I have the wires on the distributor placed properly, I'm pretty sure I do, but I'm not positive that I'm using the right mark as the timing mark to find TDC. Does anyone know what it looks like on my car? I was assuming it's the triangle below the Volkswagen and Audi symbols on the windshield side of the gear.

Please help if you can, I wanna hear this thing run! Thanks
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jsl240z  



Joined: 17 Jun 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Carmichael, CA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It definitely sounds like your timing is off. I would first check your plug wires are all in the right place, after making sure this is correct I would rotate the engine until cylinder #1 is at TDC on it's compression stroke. Then pull off the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is facing towards cylinder #1. If not you will need to pull and re-index the distributor so that it faces the correct direction. If this does not work check fuel pressure.
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Rprimm  



Joined: 15 Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do I tell that cylinder 1 is at TDC? I took the spark plug out and stuck a screwdriver in there to feel for the cylinder while my brother turned the engine over but I couldn't feel it. How far does it need to be in there I had like a four or five inch screwdriver.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 1:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The crank pulley has a notch that lines up with a pointer on the oil pump. The whole "dowel in the spark plug hole" technique is fraught with problems and should never be used, IMO.
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Rprimm  



Joined: 15 Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a picture of one on google, I'll see if I can find it on mine, I couldn't find it before
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2595
Location: MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 4:32 am    Post subject: Re: It won't start - 1981 924 Non-Turbo 5-Spd Reply with quote

Rprimm wrote:

I bought it knowing the fuel pumps were bad, so I drained the fuel tank, i replaced them both, and put a couple gallons of fresh gas in it. Along with that I have replaced the air filter, fuel filter, and spark plugs.


no timing belt?

its an N/A so it wont cause a blown motor becaust its non interfereance butt..

to me your symptoms sound like it very well could be bad cam/valve timing also.. could have jumped teeth on the belt.

that notch in your crank pulley, and a little dot on the back side of your cam pulley should both line up with the marks on that oil housing and valve cover mark (respectively) when #1 cylinder is exactly at top dead center on the compression stroke...

and at that point your ignition distributor should be in line with the spark lead from #1 cylinder also..

the crank mark will come to that point two times for every one time the cam pulley lines up, geared 2 to 1, and your distributor is geared with the cam so believe that also only lines up once every 2 crank revolutions...


socket/ratchet on the hex in the middle of the crank pulley..

find the notch and line it up with the mark

look at cam pulley, if the notch doesn't line up turn the crank one more time completely over and ckeck again..

if they never line up at the same time stop here because you found your problem (first problem).. you can loosen the tensioner on the cam belt and line them up... if that's the problem then you can thank any godlike figure of your understanding that you don't have a turbo, because that would total the engine..

if they do line up then leave them lined up and check the distributer, it should now point at the #1 cylinder spark lead.. and your at top dead center on the compression stroke...
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Rprimm  



Joined: 15 Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 4:56 am    Post subject: Re: It won't start - 1981 924 Non-Turbo 5-Spd Reply with quote

Fasteddie313 wrote:


no timing belt?

its an N/A so it wont cause a blown motor becaust its non interfereance butt..

to me your symptoms sound like it very well could be bad cam/valve timing also.. could have jumped teeth on the belt.

that notch in your crank pulley, and a little dot on the back side of your cam pulley should both line up with the marks on that oil housing and valve cover mark (respectively) when #1 cylinder is exactly at top dead center on the compression stroke...

and at that point your ignition distributor should be in line with the spark lead from #1 cylinder also..

the crank mark will come to that point two times for every one time the cam pulley lines up, geared 2 to 1, and your distributor is geared with the cam so believe that also only lines up once every 2 crank revolutions...


socket/ratchet on the hex in the middle of the crank pulley..

find the notch and line it up with the mark

look at cam pulley, if the notch doesn't line up turn the crank one more time completely over and ckeck again..

if they never line up at the same time stop here because you found your problem (first problem).. you can loosen the tensioner on the cam belt and line them up... if that's the problem then you can thank any godlike figure of your understanding that you don't have a turbo, because that would total the engine..

if they do line up then leave them lined up and check the distributer, it should now point at the #1 cylinder spark lead.. and your at top dead center on the compression stroke...


Okay, I didn't realize there are two pulleys that need to line up, I was only looking at the one at the top near the oil cap, which pulley is the other one that needs to be lined up? Sorry I don't know all the terms, I'm learning!
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
Posts: 712
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cam pulley. Dot and pointer should line up.



Crank pulley. dot/cut and pointer should line up.


Distributor. Note the impeceptible to the human eye (mine anyway) line/cut on the distributor body. The rotor should line up to this.

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Rprimm  



Joined: 15 Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kcoyle wrote:
Cam pulley. Dot and pointer should line up.


Thanks that helps a lot!
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Rprimm  



Joined: 15 Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, turns out the crank and cam pulleys weren't in sync, so I fixed that and it fired up instantly but bogged out after 2 or 3 seconds. Then I tried to start it again and it ran for 1 second. then I tried again and it wouldn't do anything. I let it sit for maybe 10 minutes and tried again and the same thing happened, It ran for 2 or 3 seconds the first try, then got progressively harder to get it to started after that. It will start every time with starting fluid but will only stay running for about 1-2 seconds before it bogs down. The spark plugs have dry black soot on them, so I think that means the mixture is too rich, right? Is it possible that the mixture could be the only reason it isn't starting now? Anybody have any thoughts or ideas?

Also, I tried adjusting the mixture screw but could barely move it, is it normal for them to be extremely tight? I could only turn it with vise grips clamped on the allen wrench
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leave the mixture screw alone for now.

Check ignition timing.
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Rprimm  



Joined: 15 Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
Leave the mixture screw alone for now.

Check ignition timing.


But isn't that what I just did? The cam and crankshaft pulleys should be spot on now. And the distributor seemed pretty much right on too. It is possible the distributor could be slightly off though, maybe 1/8th. of an inch, I didn't look at it as closely as the other marks
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like it is starting on the CSV then dying.

If you bypass the fuel pump relay there should be no flow from the injectors.
if there is, it is too rich and turning the mixture screw left will lean it out.

Turning it right until they start to spray then backing off should give you a start point. After that you will need a gas tester.

Fuel Flow tests and pressure checks are also a must.
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
Posts: 712
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1. Grab a bunch of your favorite beer.
2. Grab a haynes manual and read while you...
3. Check for vacuum leaks (replace the common vacuum hoses,elbows, check for loose clamps)
4. Read even more on Bosch k-jetronic fuel injection. (zzzzzzz)
5. Get a CIS tester to check fuel pressures.

Good times!

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1982 931- Stock with MBC at 8psi

Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
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Rprimm  



Joined: 15 Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I adjusted the distributor a little and then it ran for 30 seconds and cut off. I couldn't get it to start at all after that. Then I remembered that I had broke my new fuel pump relay that I replaced a while ago, so the old one was what I using then. So I ordered a new one and put it in and after adjusting the idle screw a bit it will idle until I cut it off now! I'm going to get a longer allen wrench so I can adjust the fuel mixture right now.

I think you are right Ozzie, when I bypassed the relay it did fire a little, plus there is a little white smoke coming out of the exhaust now, and I can't give it any gas without it cutting off, so I think the mixture is too rich.

Has anyone had any problems adjusting the mixture screw before? I was turning a wrench with vise grips and couldn't get it to move. Of course I didn't try as hard as a could because I didn't want to break anything, but still I wouldn't think it would be that hard to turn.

Thanks for all the help everyone, I can't wait to get this thing road ready!
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