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Two Electrical Issues
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1245
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 4:46 am    Post subject: Two Electrical Issues Reply with quote

I'd really like some advice on these two issues. As a prelim I have had the dash out and replaced the turn signal switch.

1. Headlights, Having bought a new headlight relay from Pelican(5 pin rather than the 4pin that was in there). I now have headlights when I hook up the battery. They are not rotated up and I have even disconnected the switch and they remain on. Hints on where to start looking?

2. Turn signals. I have replaced most of the bulbs so that the come on with the running lights. I put in a local aftermarket relay and nothing worked so I got a Wherle from Pelican and it just starts buzzing as soon as the key is turned on. Neither turn signals or flashers work.

I have cleaned all the grounds on the under dash connector and also tried running a separate ground wire from there back to the battery with no results. to compound the problem I have dash lights, but none of the gauges appear to have power.

Ready for any suggestions? Thanks
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'67 MG Midget Dp
'71 Ocelot Dsr Kawasaki 1000(under rebuild)
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 7:50 am    Post subject: Hdightlt Switch: test for Red&GreenGray wire switch shor Reply with quote

Quote:
... I pulled the motor relay and the lights stayed on.

Quote:
... when I hook up the battery. They are not rotated up and I have even disconnected the switch and they remain on. Hints on where to start looking? ... I have dash lights, but none of the gauges appear to have power.

If your grounds are good, and if I understand your post and PM correctly, then I would guess that there is possibly a short in the headlight switch or the retractable headlight relay.

For the headlight relay, disconnect the battery, pull the out retractable headlight relay, and put an ohm-meter first between terminals 87 and 87a and next between 87 and 30 of the relay-- both readings should show discontinuity. Between terminals 87a and 30 there should be continuity.

The current flow in a Bosch relay is explained on this Website and demonstrated in this flash video.

According to the way I read the current flow diagram...

(A) ... if your headlights are on and the headlight switch is connected but not turned on, then it would seem to follow that the headlight switch is shorted regardless of whether the headlight relay is in place or not. The short would be just below Terminal 58 at the middle left of the wiring diagram image below.

To check: The switch should slide out of the dash far enough to test by pressing in the four or so tabs on the sides of the switch (Yours probably has two tabs one at the top, one at the bottom also to those on the sides). With the battery disconnected check for continuity behind the switch between the red wire and the green/gray wire contacts. If your read continuity, then the switch is shorted and would give rise to your description.

(B) But if I understand you to also say your headlight switch is entirely disconnected from all wires, then the voltage to the headlight is only coming directly through fuse 6 to the retractable headlight relay. This would indicate a short between 87 and 30. If this is the case, there is would be a short where the green line is in this diagram:




For easier access, it would be worthwhile to take out the seats -- as I recall this involves taking out four bolts.

Lee
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1245
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 5:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tested the headlight motor relay and it tests out good, and also operates when the switch is activated. I have checked out the switch and it appears to be fine, the parking lights come on and the headlights rotate up on the first notch.

On the switch I am not getting connection from the 56 terminal to the X terminal which sends power back to the relay. That circuit traces back thru also all the instruments lights and the ignition switch(line 82 of '77 Haynes) so I'm heading there next.

I have also tested all the relay block terminals and all seem to be going to the appropriate locations, except I am not getting any power going out the light in the switch(line 1 of '77 Haynes. I could not find any shorts there, but I obviously have one somewhere.

The headlights come on with both the the switch and the motor relay out of the circuit. The high/low beam switch does not work.

I did have the dash out so who knows what I screwed up in there. Don't worry the seat was the first thing to come out. Thanks for the help so far.
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm surprised that both the retractable headlight relay and the headlight switch test good given what I read -- sorry for the red herring. Maybe I am getting confused about whether your post refers to the low/high beam relay or the retractable headlight relay. Both relays have 5 terminals so I'm not quite sure as to which one was replaced.

I'm not sure my Hanes 1976-1977 1/2 Wiring Diagram in the Hanes Porsche 924 and Turbo 1976 thru 1980 (pub. 1981) manual matches the 1977 Wiring Diagram you are referring to. Is your diagram from an earlier or later published Hanes manual with a 1977 only labelled-diagram and not a 1976-1977 1/2 label (assuming there would be a difference)?

But if I'm looking at a diagram for your car, the following might be worth checking before troubleshooting the ignition switch.

Quote:
On the [headlight] switch I am not getting connection from the 56 terminal to the X terminal which sends power back to the relay.


Since I understood you to say the headlight switch tested good, then it might be you are not getting voltage to terminal 56 of the headlight switch from the high/low beam relay. Since, as I read the diagram, voltage comes from the high/low beam relay, the first part of that circuit could be checked before moving to the more complex ignition switch circuit.

Quote:
The headlights come on with both the [the headlight switch, right?] switch and the motor relay out of the circuit. The high/low beam switch does not work.


Assuming you have a high/low beam relay on the fuse box, if this relay were defective couldn't it be that the connection from terminal 30 completes a circuit to only one and not the other of terminals 55a and 56b -- hence only the high or low beam works and not the other?

If this description of the high/low beam relay fits your car, and the relay tests good, then you might try the following (if you have not already done so). (The high/low beam relay rarely goes bad, so you might just assume it's good and only check the terminal connections. If the relay were to be bad then it's likely your bulbs might be also).

(1) Re-check the four fuses for the headlights and twist them in their sockets to make sure they all make good contact. Check the grounds near each headlight for corrosion.

(2) Check the dimmer switch with a voltmeter.

(3) Connect a jumper wire between the ground terminal of a non-functioning high or low beam light (which ever one didn't work) and a good chassis ground. Then connect a fused jumper wire between the battery anode and the positive terminal of the non-functioning light (i.e. either the yellow or the yellow/black wire). If the lights work, the ground is bad, but if the lights don't work which would be unlikely, then the bulbs would need to be replaced.

-----

If there is any excess weight on a key chain, then it is not at all unusual for the ignition switch to be defective -- but I would think a defective ignition switch would most likely show up in starting problems.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to thank larch for taking the time to create the thorough posts above. . .posts like these are what make this board awesome!
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

larchie wrote:
(The high/low beam relay rarely goes bad, so you might just assume it's good and only check the terminal connections. If the relay were to be bad then it's likely your bulbs might be also).

Great tips there.

However, it is not uncommon for a leak to allow water to drip onto the fuse/relay panel, which can cause issues with things like the high/low beam relay to rust inside, causing grief.
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1245
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really do appreciate the help, but it gets worse.

First the good news:
1. I'm using the Haynes 76-77.5 version 1984.
2.I rechecked the motor relay #477-941-579B between 30 and 87 and have no short.
3. Reworked the ground on the passenger side-no change.
4. With the key in on position both high beams and low beams work with relay in.

Now the bad news:
A: With the high/low relay in and the battery connected the lights go on high beam with the switch in or out and the motor relay in or out-The original problem.
1. Put in the flasher relay(got from Pelican) - it buzzes
2. Result the passenger headlight low beam turns off, high beam works.
3. turn signals don't work.
4. The fuse box was warm under the fuse 1-4 area(headlights)
5. I pulled the pass headlight to check power, turned switch off and proceeded to break headlight

Quit for Night

On the schematics I don't see any relationship between the turn signals and headlights, Plugs are different so shouldn't be shorts there.

Tomorrow is another day
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'71 Ocelot Dsr Kawasaki 1000(under rebuild)
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
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Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I found the "duh" moment. The new relay is a euromax from Pelican. I decided to check it and found I have continuity between the terminal 30 and terminal 56b so the lights would be on all the time. I realize I can't send this one back to Pelican,but any suggestions as to where to get one?
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
Posts: 297

PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the bad luck on the headlight. I've been rethinking about my statement that the headlight relay can be assumed good. I remember some years ago when my brother had mentioned relays he bought as being "bad from the box" and that set me to thinking as folows:

On the Pelican Relay page the "Headlight Relay" listed there for your car was the Empi (aftermarket) Headlight Relay (High/Low Beam), 924 (through 1980). Pelican PN 111-941-583-M84.

As I understand this relay, it's a single pole double throw latching relay, so when the headlight switch is turned on, 12V is completed from terminal 56 on the switch through a 2.5 mm^2 wire to terminal 56 on the headlight relay and then through a resistor in the relay to terminal 30 which triggers the solenoid connection high/low beam switch in the relay depending on the S terminal connection to the position of the dimmer/headlight switch on the steering column. If the relay is latched the high beams are on (terminal 56a and indicator light), if the relay is unlatch the low beams are on (terminal 56b). Whenever the headlight switch is off the relay reverts to the unlatched position (56b), so when the headlight switch is next turned on the default position is the low beam. So the S connection is the trigger for the relay.

I am thinking terminal 30 direct from the battery supplements the power from terminal 56 to power the high beam headlights as shown in this case diagram which matches the diagram of your relay from Pelican Parts:



Did you see one of the customers comments about your relay who wrote:
Quote:
--Bob's Project--This part should come with instructions to connect the #30 tab and the #56 tab to work in replacement of the original relay. Somewhat confusing to install.

You should not have a jumper between terminals 30 and 56 -- I think this comment only applies to early VWs whose wiring diagrams was different.

Hopefully someone reading this post can confirm that the battery voltage to terminal 30 should not connected until the headlight switch is activated.

If my understanding is correct about how this relay works is right, then the only way I can see for the headlights to come on with the headlight switch off is if there is a short in your new headlight relay between 30 and 56.

This might be confirmed by three quick tests:

(1) With the ignition on, headlight switch off, if the headlights are on, they would not be on low beam.
(2) If you clich the dimmer switch on the steering column the lights would not switch to low beam.
(3) Pull the headlight relay and test the connection between terminal 30 and 56 -- if there is continuity then, if my understanding is correct, then there is a short between what I think should be separate circuits on your Porsche.

Also, isn't this problem what you described in your first post above where it's written:

Quote:
I now have headlights when I hook up the battery. They are not rotated up and I have even disconnected the switch and they remain on. Hints on where to start looking?

and described in your most recent post?

Quote:
Now the bad news:
A: With the high/low relay in and the battery connected the lights go on high beam with the switch in or out and the motor relay in or out-The original problem.


Also ...

Quote:

4. The fuse box was warm under the fuse 1-4 area(headlights)

If there were to be a short in the new headlight relay then this would also account for all four fuses being activated since all beams of both headlights are activated when voltage from both terminals 30 and 56 are applied.

I hope someone else can comment on how this relay works so I am not leading you astray here.

----
Quote:
On the schematics I don't see any relationship between the turn signals and headlights, Plugs are different so shouldn't be shorts there.

Shouldn't your hazard/turn signal flasher relay have four prongs? (49 49a C and 31). The Wehrle relay from Pelican only has three pins, but maybe this image is mistaken. Is this a reference to the Wehrle Flasher/Turn Signal Relay, 924 ...
PN 1H0-953-227-M206?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/imgdsply.cgi?pn=1H0953227-M5206
which looks like this:


When I click on the INFO link it states that this relay is for a 928. This might be worth re-checking.

My first guess on the turn signals is that one part of the problem might be that you have either or both poor ground connections and/or bulb connections. As I remember from freshman chemistry, the sockets being zinc and the bulbs being brass there is an emf potential to lead to a flow of electrons resulting in galvanic corrosion especially when wet. I remember spending many hours cleaning the ground under the carpet near the left tail light and the sockets of the tail lights in order to get the signals and lights to function properly. If the bulb sockets are not clean and tight or there is poor electrical contact other bulbs can come on without flashing.

Before you think about replacing the signal switch it's important to check the switch when removed with a battery operated test light or ohmmeter to make sure it really is defective.
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 1245
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I should give an update. I ordered a second relay, this time from Paragon. They sent the same Euromax(China) relay, this time I checked it with a multimeter found it had the same problem. I then went on the web and found that other people have had the same problem, it appears to be manufactured wrong. On the Factory Five Racing site(cobra kit cars)they use it also and someone said that other brands of the same relay are a NAPA Echlin AR284, Hella 201.007, SWF 201.007 and DNI 0127. Obviously can't confirm this, but will contact the local NAPA tomorrow to try to get one, test it before I buy it. Some VW outfit has some made by Flosser in Germany.

I took the first one from Pelican apart and it has a coil and printed circuit board, apparently the original which was used on a lot of VW's is a mechanical latching relay

I will contact both Pelican and Paragon tomorrow and hopefully return the one to Paragon.
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the relay you are replacing the 924 1977-80 Headlight Dimmer Relay PN 111 941 583?

If so, which equivalent did you finally end up with?

Thanks.
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
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Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that is the part# I am replacing. Jason at Paragon is sending me a "higher quality, more expensive" relay, Wherle I think. I will keep in touch with him on this. I told him that for the 3 weeks I chased this problem more money for a better relay was insignificant. When I talked to the gal at Pelican, I might as well have been talking to the wall. She did over to take it back for a credit, but now I can't find their address.
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larchie  



Joined: 19 Jun 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After doing a quick search for this part number I see why you are going though so much work -- many sites have no clean description of this relay. Autoatlanta has an Empi Headlight Relay with the addendum to the description:
Quote:
... this is the culprit. factory supercession has an extra terminal, see the "Tech Tips 700" for installation instructions

Their Tech Tips 700 pamphlet which gives the tip is $20 extra.

And AutohausAZ has a "limited availability" of an unnamed brand named "Aftermarket." Apparently, the earlier relays from Pelican were the "unbridged variety" between terminals 30 and 56 but the more recent ones were the "shorted" ones for the early VW and Audis. -- maybe they differed in an extension number to the part number. And a number of other sites the OEM PN for Porsche is no longer available.

Prices run from under $15 to over $50, but because of the two different configurations, it's difficult to know what one is getting.

It's possible the "-84" extension on the EMPI might mark the difference, i.e., indicate the bridge between the the 30 and 56 terminals -- but I don't know.

There's a graphic explanatory PDF, if anyone is interested, of the different configurations here on the OldVoksHome website.
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vatoisimo  



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
I have to thank larch for taking the time to create the thorough posts above. . .posts like these are what make this board awesome!




+1
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MikeJinCO  



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Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a -583A relay coming from some VW outfit in the Northeast. Supposedly it has the 56 terminal activating the relay at least. All the later ones don't. We are gone for another week, I'll respond when I get home and try it. And yes Larchie's help has been invaluable.
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