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5-lug question
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 12:25 pm    Post subject: 5-lug question Reply with quote

I've got a question regarding the rear brake callipers on a 5-lug setup.

The callipers end up displacing towards the outside of the car as the brakes wear, as it is a floating calliper design. This means that as the car is used, the brake line that attaches to the calliper must flex.

On the bits that I have, it's a hardline in this location.

It seems to me that this should be a flex line.

In everything I've seen about this, including PET, there is a hardline in this location.

What's up with this? How is the brake line bent in order to minimize the lack of flexibility as it applies to brake drag, and fatigue issues? Are there any good pictures of a stock brake line shape/routing in this location?
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One side of the caliper is fixed.
This should be the side the piston and brake line is on.
The other side floats.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This isn't how it appears to me that it works.

The piece with the arrow is bolted directly to the suspension arm. It has a big hole in the middle through which the calliper piston protrudes. It also has the pins (part 6) on which the pads ride to keep them in position relative to the rotor (part 1).



This piece that the arrow is pointing to is the calliper cylinder and bracket which holds both pads. As the outer pad wears, the entire bracket shifts towards the centerline of the car. The brake line is attached to the calliper cylinder, thus it must flex as the outer pad wears.

Too bad there isn't a better picture.
Edit: Fixed pictures
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Last edited by !tom on Tue Jun 04, 2013 2:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

as both pads wear the piston takes up the difference on one side and the floating keeps the cylinder central to the hub. ,eg. no movement.
(as long as each pads wears at the same rate.)
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The piston works its way out to compensate for inner pad wear; what works its way in to compensate for outer pad wear?

On my callipers it's the floating calliper assembly that works its way inwards to compensate for outer pad wear, including the brake line.
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ptheskil  



Joined: 03 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

!tom wrote:
As the outer pad wears, the entire bracket shifts towards the centerline of the car.


That's what happens on mine.

To get fatigue problems you normally need a fair number of cycles unless you are going outside the elastic limit of the material. The brake line completes one flexing cycle every time you replace the pads with new ones. Say the car does 300k miles and you change the pads every 10k (keep the maths simple) that's only 30 cycles in the vehicle lifetime. Not likely to cause fatigue problems. Vibration caused by tyre/road interaction forces will see it off way before it fatigues due to caliper movement caused by pad wear.
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Brockoli  



Joined: 06 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just rebuilt my 5-lug brakes and the rear hard brake line is very long and I had no problem moving it around when it was disconnected to the caliper. I do not believe the hard line is attached or bolted down to prevent it from moving. I believe there will be sufficient movement so the brake line shouldnt break.
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edredas  



Joined: 09 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



On my S there's a clip that holds the brake line up while allowing it to travel back and forth.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the pic! I was wanting a picture so I knew how the hard line should run. A bend like what you show should allow easy calliper movement -- a straight shot from the back of the calliper would not.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can anyone confirm if the above pictured calliper is assembled properly?

I used the above picture as a guide for which pot goes on which side.

With my car's butt sky high and the suspension fully extended, it looks like the bleeders aren't at the top, but assembling the callipers so that the bleeder is inboard of the bracket (swapping the pot from the right side of the car into the calliper pictured) looks to me like it would put the bleeder at the top.

I'm in the assembly stage, and I'd rather sort this out now than after I get everything else put together.

Thanks!
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bleeder to the rear is correct.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 1:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't been driving my car much with the 5 lug brakes yet because I've been away and there are a couple issues.

One major issue is occasional pad knockback. The front bearings are correctly adjusted; I've traced the problem to the rear. The rear hard brake lines rub the inner fender, so much so that the caliper is pushed over releasing the brakes.

This with brand new pads too; as the pads wear, the caliper will work inwards, exacerbating the problem.

Is this a problem anyone else has? I was certainly not expecting this issue. I'm not sure if the solution should be to modify my existing brake lines, bend new ones, or whack the fender with a hammer.

It looks like the above picture, except the brake line hits the fender with the suspension loaded.

Tips? Thoughts?
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your brake line isn't in the right spot then. Gently tweak it so that it clears the inner fender, just be careful you don't crimp the bend into the calipers. If you don't have the clips on the trailing arm to hold them in place, use zip ties and leave them a little loose to allow for some float.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An update, as this was an unexpected development with my 5-lug conversion.

I ended up bending the inner fender a little bit on each side for more clearance, and the brake lines are a bit mangled too. I have on my to-do list bending up new brake lines, but what's on the car now is sufficient.





Is the inner fender a different shape on the earlier shells?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It wouldn't surprise me if that were the case. What year is your shell? Can you get the rear end up in the air, and then take a pic of each of the inner fender wells? Then we can compare to the 78, 80, and 81 chassis I have at the shop.
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