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ThomasJoseph315
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 Posted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 3:28 pm Post subject: Cleaning the WUR |
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Is there very detailed instructions on how to disassemble the WUR and clean it out? Possibly a video?
I tested the heating element and got 18ohms so I know that's good. |
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scm924s
Joined: 22 Oct 2010
Posts: 296
Location: Gloucester UK
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| Posted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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Not 100% the same but near enough http://www.bing.com/search?q=CIS+Warm+Up+Regulator&FORM=QSRE1
_________________
1984 n/a Ruby Red Metallic
1988 924S Guards red- sold
1986 924S Guards Red - sold
1984 n/a Black - sold
1980 n/a Le Mans#1 - sold
1980 n/a Le Mans#2- sold
1977 Martini - sold |
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ThomasJoseph315
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| Posted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 11:18 pm Post subject: |
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Yea, I already seen this, it's bit hard to follow. Tho the specs are good. If some one can help me understand to the letter on how to clean these things I'll make a you tube video for everyone.  |
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scm924s
Joined: 22 Oct 2010
Posts: 296
Location: Gloucester UK
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ThomasJoseph315
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| Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks,.. I am getting tempted to cleaning this thing..
The car is hard to start, once started will not idle until it is warm; It coughs and sputters. Once warm it seems to run fine but, will cut out under acceleration.
If I had to guess,.. this warming coil isn't warming up, or there is some gunk in the screen. But even if it's not getting heat from the heater coil, engine heat should be plenty after running in normal op temps.
Anyone else still test out at 18ohms and till not warm up? Does this sound familiar? |
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scm924s
Joined: 22 Oct 2010
Posts: 296
Location: Gloucester UK
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| Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 5:39 pm Post subject: |
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I had dreadful problems getting the Martini to run properly after about 15 years layup. I've rebuilt a couple of WUR's now and I am finally getting it sensible. You will probably need an impact driver to shift the 4 casing screws, they are very tight.
Have you done a fuel pressure test yet, does highlight some problems if they are there?
The fuel filter in the inlet of the Wur is a big cause of problems,it is a multiple layer of fine mesh and clogs, general thinking is to remove it entirely, which I have done, you will need to reset CO2 settings on mixture as it will probably run richer when removed.
My 4 Wur's all tested 18/20 ohms and I think that is a good result, and according to Haynes it's OK.
_________________
1984 n/a Ruby Red Metallic
1988 924S Guards red- sold
1986 924S Guards Red - sold
1984 n/a Black - sold
1980 n/a Le Mans#1 - sold
1980 n/a Le Mans#2- sold
1977 Martini - sold |
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ThomasJoseph315
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| Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 1:25 am Post subject: |
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| scm924s wrote: | I had dreadful problems getting the Martini to run properly after about 15 years layup. I've rebuilt a couple of WUR's now and I am finally getting it sensible. You will probably need an impact driver to shift the 4 casing screws, they are very tight.
Have you done a fuel pressure test yet, does highlight some problems if they are there?
The fuel filter in the inlet of the WUR is a big cause of problems, it is a multiple layer of fine mesh and clogs, general thinking is to remove it entirely, which I have done, you will need to reset CO2 settings on mixture as it will probably run richer when removed.
My 4 WUR's all tested 18/20 ohms and I think that is a good result, and according to Haynes it's OK. |
I haven't purchased a tester yet  . I got a really good feeling there is crud gummed up inside that screen. My car too has been sitting for a long time, I found cob webs in it all over, lol. Looks straight forward on the disassemble of it. I read that guide at length last night and I feel pretty confident that I could clean this thing out myself.
What specifically did you use to remove the screen and crud? Pick for the screen, Q-tips, Carb cleaner? What did you use to clean the diaphragm? I read that thing is pretty flimsy. Also, have you ever replaced the O-ring? Do you have a part number? Can I spray carb cleaner right into the ports and blast the grime out without hurting anything? |
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scm924s
Joined: 22 Oct 2010
Posts: 296
Location: Gloucester UK
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| Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 4:01 am Post subject: |
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Dismantling is straightforward, the diaphragm is tricky to remove as it appears to be stainless and a magnetic pick up won't touch it, just have to be careful trying to lift one side with a fine screwdriver or similar without damage. I left the small O ring under the diaphragm alone and washed everything out with carb cleaner. The filter can be pushed out from inside with a bit of wire when the diaphragm is removed.
Until you have carried out a pressure test you are going to be chasing round in circles. At this stage you do not know if the WUR is faulty, and it may not be the cause of problem you are having.
_________________
1984 n/a Ruby Red Metallic
1988 924S Guards red- sold
1986 924S Guards Red - sold
1984 n/a Black - sold
1980 n/a Le Mans#1 - sold
1980 n/a Le Mans#2- sold
1977 Martini - sold |
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