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What the hell? (ignition and fuel pump relay issues)
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haroldk  



Joined: 24 Nov 2008
Posts: 171
Location: St Paul, MN, USA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 7:26 am    Post subject: What the hell? (ignition and fuel pump relay issues) Reply with quote

I had my 1980 924 running last year and then over the winter I pulled out the battery to plug up the big hole under it. I grounded the welder to the stud in the battery box and I made sure no wiring was harmed in the process, but now it won't start.

The fuel pumps don't prime all the time like they should, so I first suspected the relay or the switch, but the switch is fine (I bench tested that sucker until I was blue in the face) and the relay works. If I bypass the relay, the pumps run. They don't run with the key on and the air meter plate off the seat (reaching through the air box and pushing it up manually).

The only thing I can do to get the pumps to prime consistently is to, get this, adjust the mirrors. I can't figure out any connection between the mirror electrics and the fuel pumps.

With the key on, I'm also only getting a little over 6V to the coil. The odd thing is that on the other side of the coil, I'm getting about 1.5V to ground. That kind of tells me there's current running through it when there shouldn't be. Does a 1980 have a ballast resistor, or is it all contained in the box under the steering column?

I had the positive cable well and truly protected while I was welding and I really wouldn't expect there to have been any issues, but what are the chances that a bad ignition box could cause this odd behavior?
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

'80 electrics- not sure but think the pump relay runs off the coil pulse not the air valve flap.

So- if you are not sparking you get nada.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should always unplug all electronics when welding on a car.

That said - I'd expect you have bad grounds, at least check that first.
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haroldk  



Joined: 24 Nov 2008
Posts: 171
Location: St Paul, MN, USA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

924RACR wrote:
You should always unplug all electronics when welding on a car.

That said - I'd expect you have bad grounds, at least check that first.


I have checked the grounds. There was one disconnected in the big bundle under the dash, but that made no difference. All the other ones were and are making good contact.
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dpw928  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: owasso, ok 74055

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The prime circuit for the pump with the ignition on is feed by the 30 (battery) circuit. Check the battery feed line(s) to the fuse relay board for corrosion. Also check the pump fuse and relay for corrosion.

The 80 MY has measured resistance wires instead of resistors. Your 6 volts at the coil with the ignition on is correct. The voltage during cranking should be a little higher.

Dennis
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haroldk  



Joined: 24 Nov 2008
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Location: St Paul, MN, USA

PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dpw928 wrote:
The prime circuit for the pump with the ignition on is feed by the 30 (battery) circuit. Check the battery feed line(s) to the fuse relay board for corrosion. Also check the pump fuse and relay for corrosion.


OK, so the relay is supposed to fire and clamp closed for 2 seconds and then open unless it gets an ignition pulse, and the only thing that tells it to close in the first place is 12V from the ignition switch, nothing from the timing box, is that correct?

dpw928 wrote:

The 80 MY has measured resistance wires instead of resistors. Your 6 volts at the coil with the ignition on is correct. The voltage during cranking should be a little higher.


Alright, I'll put the clamps on the probes for my meter and see what I'm getting while cranking.
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musicalannette  



Joined: 21 Feb 2012
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i know you have checked you grounds, but it is either getting a ground or feed from the mirrors. why it should, i don't know, but as it effects it and you have checked the grounds i would start there, i would also look to see if any welding has effected the electrical components and fuse box and relay board below, if you have applied a bit too much heat or a bit of weld has spattered through it might have have effected there. to be honest, this is where most of my problems were, and they joke about jaguar electrics!! the german stuff can be just as bad, poor contacts were to blame, most of them on plugs under there. but if a bit of weld has created a short or melted the odd wire, you might have the answer. hope this helps
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dpw928  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the 79 and later US models there is a circuit in the relay that runs the pump for a few seconds when the ignition switch is turned to the on position. When cranking, there is no 15 circuit activated so the pump shouldn't run. Once the engine starts and the key is moved to the on position the relay gets the ignition pulse and starts the pump. Also, during cranking the ignition is fed by the 16 circuit from the starter. This is through a reduced resistance wire to the starter which gives the coil a hotter spark. At no time should there be 12 volts at the coil.

Dennis
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D Hook  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My '80 does the same trick with the mirrors cycling the fuel pump. Very handy when having fuel pump problems because you can turn the key on, hit the mirror switch and hear the pump come on for a few seconds and confirm it has power.

I always thought it was a feature built into the car from the factory. If it wasn't, it should've been.
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Ozzie  



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pump will run when cranking.
15 supplies power to the TIU and pump relay.
without it you can crank all you like and it wont start.
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dpw928  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ozzie wrote:
The pump will run when cranking.
15 supplies power to the TIU and pump relay.
without it you can crank all you like and it wont start.


Ozzie,

On US versions the 15 circuit is not enegized during cranking. That's why there are two resistance lines going to the coil. During cranking the 50 circuit powers the starter and the 16 circuit going to the coil. Since there is no 15 circuit energized during cranking, the pump does not run. Not sure how the ROW versions operate but a quick study of the US wiring diagrams will confirm what I am saying.

Dennis
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

then what powers the TIU during cranking?
We use the same ign switch.
check fig 13.33 and 15 is energised as soon as the key is turned to any position- on or cranking.
I have the same Haynes wiring diagrams as you.
15 powers the oil lamp as well and the tacho.

so you are saying none of them work during cranking for US models???
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Ozzie  



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DPW928
I dont know why you dont believe 15 has power when cranking.

PET show the same ign switch across all models.


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Going by this diagram 15 is activated when the key on and cranking. Otherwise it would look like the contacts for X.

15 powers the TIU, FPR, tacho, generator, oil lamp instrument cluster and several other items.

Without the TIU the coil will not work, no spark, no go. (16 on the TIU is the coil control) Crank all you like.
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dpw928  



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ozzie,

If the 15 circuit was activated during cranking you would power on both lines going to the coil rather than just the 16/50 circuit. Also, the tach receives its signal from the low voltage contact of the coil, so it operates regardless of the 15 or 16 power source. the oil pressure gauge acts like an ohn meter and receives the reading from the sender. i.e. no power (15 or otherwise) s required. There is a 15 circuit to each of the gauges but a close look will indicate that is for the lighting only.

Concerning the switch, if you've ever taken one apart, you will see the rotating contact only activates one circuit at a time.

Dennis
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haroldk  



Joined: 24 Nov 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dpw928 wrote:
Concerning the switch, if you've ever taken one apart, you will see the rotating contact only activates one circuit at a time.


I tested my switch with a meter and there was no break in contact on pin 15 between on and crank. Pin 15 had continuity in both positions and pin 50 had continuity only in crank. Both had no continuity with the key out or key in in the off position.

The tach should require power and a signal to operate, not just a signal. The oil pressure gauge circuit would require power input somewhere along the way to display a reading. Ohmmeters put current through resistors to find the resistance.

If the pumps don't run during cranking, how would the car start if it took longer than 2 seconds to fire? This car had an issue with a bad WUR before and it would take 10-15 seconds to start. If the fuel pumps didn't run more than 2 seconds, it would have run through any built-up fuel pressure and completely refused to start.

musicalannette wrote:

i would also look to see if any welding has effected the electrical components and fuse box and relay board below, if you have applied a bit too much heat or a bit of weld has spattered through it might have have effected there.


You're thinking of the wrong side of the car. My car is US, not ROW. The battery is on the right side and the fuse box is on the left. As I mentioned in my OP, I checked for melted wiring due to the welding, but there aren't any wires anywhere near where I was welding.
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Last edited by haroldk on Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:34 am; edited 1 time in total
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