924Board.org

[Kongle]

Hi .. i have just purchased a 1981 924 base car so I don't know the history of the car.

I have found I have to push the clutch peddle all the way to the floor (almost like through the floor) to shift into 1st and sometimes 2nd grinds if the clutch is not all the way to the floor.

3rd / 4th / 5th gear are fine, I only need to push clutch normally to shift (engage / disengage clutch )

Reverse grinds all the time even if I push the clutch all the way to the floor.

Does this sound like a throw out bearing problem, bent / cracked clutch fork or something else ?? How do I adjust the clutch for travel ?? It is cable system. Link or explanation would be great help

I was thinking wouldn't a bent clutch fork or bad throw out bearing affect all gears .. ie engage and disengage of the clutch

Thanks for helping me out, much appreciated

[fiat22turbo]

Syncros are shot. Sorry
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Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)

[Rasta Monsta]

Cable properly adjusted? Did you buy a manual?
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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[fiat22turbo]

Uh, if it grinds in first, second and reverse, but not third, fourth and fifth, then adjusting the cable isn't going to fix it. That sounds like a problem in the more commonly abused gears and syncros.

I guess it won't hurt to adjust the clutch cable per the manual. At least you'll know its where it needs to be.

How are the shifter linkage bushings? Much slop in the action?

I would try changing the oil in the gearbox (if you haven't done it already) You can see how much shiny metal comes out.

You'll likely need to refresh the box, clutch cable and shifter bushings and maybe the torque tube bearings and clutch (depending on what you find once you dig in.

I would start looking at transaxle refresh parts or a spare transaxle and then practice your rev-match shifting to cut down on the grinding until you can fix the transaxle. Sorry
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Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)

[Rasta Monsta]

CPP rides again!



Good point about those reverse synchros, tho!

(I know, I know. . .KYA!)
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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[Smoothie]

The '81'd have an Audi (non-Getrag, non-snailshell) gearbox - so at least less likelyhood of the grindy synchro problem, no?..
I'd keep the faith and assume clutch adjustment problem until proven otherwise.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

[Kongle]

Hi, thanks everyone for being so helpful.

Whats the best tool to adjust the clutch cable, I find a box wrentch is too long to turn ?

I found by putting in 1st and then Reverse this prevents the grinding when I just put it in reverse.

I thought the reverse don't have synchro gear ???

Thanks

[Paul]

Your clutch is not fully releasing. Adjust it before you cause very expensive tranny damage.
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White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.

[tomcooper]

You might want to take a look at the point the clutch cable goes through the firewall. A not uncommon problem is the firewall failing at that point and the clutch going out of adjustment. You can adjust it for a while, but then it gets to the point where the firewall will have to be repaired.

Casper currently has that problem.

Tom
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Casper and Big Red, both 1980 NA
Black Bart, 1990 944 S2 Cab

[Duncan]

I also had the problem that standard box wrenches were to long to move around. I bought two cheap wrenches and cut them in half with a hacksaw.
In the past I also used a small adustable wrench ( a bahco).
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1983 NA Alpineweiss since 2001
Peugeot 205 Generation

[Kongle]

Thanks you guys, you are the best, thanks for all your help and suggestions

I think I still need a clutch 101 lesson -

I have adjusted the clutch cable .. it does feel better now, but I feel I need a new clutch kit. I can find one from local shop by LUK.

Anyone had any experience with LUK clutch kits ??? its cost about 5x less than Sash OEM

I don't know if I need to replace the clutch

From the inspection hole (clutch normal position)


From another angle



This is the throw-out bearing (clutch normal position)



Another view of throw-out bearing


And a video
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kongc/5485251838/

Please let me know what you guys think ??? Thanks in Advance

[Kongle]

.. and this was the best cable adjustment I can get ... if I adjust anymore the clutch won't release and the car will not stall in 1st gear and no torque, if I adjust any less I will need to put my foot to the floor and hard shift into 1st gear.

Thanks again. What do you guys think is the problem ??? ... and how does my clutch look ?

[Rasta Monsta]

Did you follow the correct spec for adjusting the clutch? I think on an NA it involves measuring pedal free travel?
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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[Brockoli]

^+1

I think it is 3/4 - 1'' of free play. I used a ruler to measure it from the floor board. Its kind of hard to measure accurately but close counts.
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'80 924 M471,Wideband O2, Full coilover susp,23/19 sways,Bilstiens,KLA Strut Brace,Roll Bar,Test Pipe,BBS RS, Willwood BBK

25% of a '87 944 Chumpcar http://straightpipe.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=2454

'79 924 Sebring Edition(Sitting)

[Kongle]

Hi .. are you guys able to take a picture of the cluth play adjustment screw for me please ???