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daveo
Joined: 02 Sep 2005 Posts: 183 Location: GB
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Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:23 am Post subject: gulf car at snet |
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http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1167681913#!/photo.php?pid=31007867&id=1167681913&fbid=1427046153983
hope this works[/img]
ok got it
the picks of the car r in team 44 cars
Last edited by daveo on Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:40 am; edited 2 times in total |
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daveo
Joined: 02 Sep 2005 Posts: 183 Location: GB
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Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:26 am Post subject: |
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| didnt work,,,haw di i post photos |
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reilly525i

Joined: 07 Nov 2009 Posts: 222 Location: southern california
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Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:40 am Post subject: |
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go to www.photobucket.com . . open a free acct and upload photos. after that take the "image link" and copy and paste into your post. . . presto. _________________ "There are no kings inside the gates of Eden"
80 n/a 924.
76 alfa romeo spider
e34 525i.
xj6 vanden plas
vintage Sunbeam 6 speed bicycle |
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Carrera RSR

Joined: 08 Jan 2010 Posts: 2312 Location: Somerset, UK
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Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:20 am Post subject: |
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Click on pic, right click and 'open pic in new tab or window', copy and paste the link into the post and put [img] at both ends
Great shots and great car. Tell us more. _________________ 1980 931 - forged pistons, Piper cam, K27/26 3257 6.10 hybrid turbo, 951 FMIC, custom intake, Mittelmotor dizzy & cam pulley, H&S exhaust, GAZ Gold, Fuch'ed, Quaife
Now www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=34690
Then www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=31252 |
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Grenadiers
Joined: 20 Feb 2007 Posts: 3222 Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ
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Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:30 am Post subject: |
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From the looks of it, I think the driver has an extra-large head! AND, I've always wanted to know what's up with the windshield wiper in that position? _________________ '83 944 Track car.
'88 924S Track car.
'89 944 Turbo
2004 Winnebago Vectra monster RV
2012 Jeep Wrangler
2014 Kia Soul
2001 Ford F350 powerstroke |
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daveo
Joined: 02 Sep 2005 Posts: 183 Location: GB
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Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 2:24 am Post subject: |
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This mail is from the man that prrped the motor
the car is Dave dennets old car, but we had to re build the motor as we killed the old one at brands
Thanks 4 looking will post new power outputs soon
Dave
Block prep :-
Bores honed to clean and de glaze.
Broken alloy sump bolts (M6) drilled and re-tapped
All other tapped holes had tap run down to clean out, M12.M10 & M8 and some more M6s. Some head bolt holes were quite cruddy, which probably explains, why, upon dismantling, head bolt torque loadings were "variable"!
New core plugs fitted, one or two old ones looked a bit corroded.
Bottom of bores chamfered to reduce piston skirt wear.
Mating surfaces were flattend with sander.
Block washed and air dried.
Crank.
reground mains to 0.75mm u-size; and big ends to 0.5mm u/size (which are for Golf conrods)
Crank assy balanced.
Spigot brg ok, greased.
Installation checks - Centre main run out 0.02mm (0.8thou), endfloat 0.15mm (6thou).
Con rods.
Resized #4 big end, and balanced. #4 conrod was 12gm lighter than other 3. Note, these conrods dont have an oil squirter hole to lube bores and underside of pistons (which 924 ones do). Thought about drilling one, but shells would need to be drilled as well, so best leave as is.
Now, your conrods are not a matched set!! one has an oilway hole all the way up its length, 2 are the same and a third is subtly different, not having an oil drilling in its little end. Managed to balance them to within 6gm of each other (0.9%), then gave up as i was running out of places to remove material without compromising their strength and introducing inbuilt stress points. As exact source of conrods is unknown, have torqued them up to 22ft lbs + 90deg (as taken from data books). Had to grind block some more(!) to get clearance, its still only 0.025"!! (rotational clearance on this engine is bleeding tight, particularly on #1 & 2 ajdacent to the blocks main oil gallery, where material removal would be very risky)
Pistons
new forged to suit bore. check balanced. all within 0.5gm of each other. Piston to bore clearance is 3 to 3.5 thou.
Rings gaps set to 16/17thou top, 18thou middle.
Checked volume above each piston once installed - #1 41.6cc; #2 40.5cc; #3 41.1cc; #4 42.5cc.
Flywheel.
Cleaned and sanded surfaces. Weight 14lbs (6.5kgs)
Grinding paste used to mate to crank surface. Cleaned, bolts loctited.
Clutch.
reused existing cover plate, seems in good condition despite looking tatty, centre plate relined with comp material.
Oil pump
Stripped and cleaned. Has suffered some pitting to teeth, axial clearance slightly high at 0.0035". Stripped press relief valve, was jammed open, cleaned up, not entirely happy with it, so put on another pump (used as new ones are obsolete now...)
Sump. fitting was a real pain as there was evidence on it of big ends scraping its sides, so removed material to improve clearance. Also had to grind big end nuts to gain clearance. There was a fair amount of metallic debris in the sump!
Oil pick up pipe - removed its cap and gauze, the debris in there was something else!!
Cylinder head. Took 3 builds to get valve clearances right, ajdusters were all over the place, some too far in, some too far out! managed to get all inlets at 0.006" and exhaust 0.016", except #3 exh valve which is 0.022", no further ajdustment available on this one.
Refitted your old water pump - has been modified to remove its impeller. Note, didnt have a new gasket for this so used sealant. Also, refitted th-stat housing with blanked out thermostat in it.
After some thought and discussion re water pump, I recommend you fit a standard 924 water pump and an 82deg thermostat, with a 3mm bleed hole drilled in it. This set up will exctract heat more evenly from around the block.
Cam timing is set to 106deg ATDC at max lift on inlet #1.
Start up procedure.
Install engine
Fill with water, check for leaks. Add 1.5l anti freeze.
Fill sump with 5l of 15/40 mineral oil (supplied). New filter prefilled with this oil already fitted.
With plugs removed, crank engine on starter until oil pressure has started rising.
Refit plugs, and start engine. Run at fast idle (1500 to 1800 rpm) for 10mins whilst checking for leaks.
Run-in using 15/40 oil, for min 1hr at part throttle, part load and 4k rpm max.
Whilst hot, drain oil and replace filter (supplied) and fill sump with 10/40 Amsoil, 5.5l, pre fill new filter before fitting.
Parts
pistons
main brg shells
big end shells
head gasket set
btm end gasket set
H/D head bolts
Clutch plate
oil - mineral 5l
oil Amsoil
oil filter x2
2l coolant
oil pump (used)
head locating rings (2)
vernier pulley (contribution)
5 x core plugs
m/c shop
hone block to suit new pistons
grind big end journals
grind mains journals
balance crank assy
balance pistons and con rods
drill and tap broken sump bolts (alloy ones were seized)
clean out all block threads with relevant tap (M6, M8, M10 and M12)
Cheers
Gwyn |
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Rasta Monsta

Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 2:32 am Post subject: |
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Ah, revisiting the old "to squirt or not to squirt" discussion. Interested to see how your setup lasts. _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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