924Board.org

[craigddavis83]

I don't know if anyone remembers my sporadic posts over the last few years but I'm getting prepared to get the 924 road and track ready again. Due to a minor mishap with a curb in the snow my cars been down for a long time. Time and money has kept me away but not for much longer. I have moved and have room to get the car moved and its time to get to work. Thanks to the help from some of the other SCCA guys I'm going to get it ready for track prep. I'll keep everyone posted on the steps of my repair/build and hopefully lots of pics. Here's the planned steps to get started.

1- Flush fuel system and check all pumps.
2- Drop the old oil and filter
3- Replace plugs and wires(wires are mixed matched and damaged)
4- Cap and rotor or just clean up
5- Check vacuum system

Hopefully this will get her running good again. I can fine tune the engine and move on to the finding some good wheels and tires. 15x6 is what the limit seems to be for the ITB class. Also got to get the trailing arms lined up and replace the suspension all the way around shocks were bad when I was driving it years ago. If anyone has suspension suggestions that would be great.
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1977 924 2.0L N/A "The Track Car" (soon!)
1995 Integra 1.8L "The Wife's Sleeper"
1968 Harley XLCH "The Family Heirloom"
2005 Honda CRF50 "The Pit Bike of Doom"

[Joes924Racer]

Looking ahead to it. Id like to see what you have.
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1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.

[Rasta Monsta]

Congrats, I know that "car down" feeling all too well.
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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[ideola]

Welcome back

Have you converted the car to five-lug setup yet? For an ITB car, IMO, it would be the first thing to do toward building a solid suspension setup. You can tune the suspension without doing, but you'll probably want the superior braking performance from the 4-wheel discs, especially on a momentum car like the 924. I have a 931 car that I will be parting this fall. Haven't had a real close look at the calipers to make sure they're rebuildable, but it could be an excellent donor for a 5-lug swap if you need it.

After the brakes are done, then refresh all the bushings. Not sure of your budget...you can spend buttloads just on suspension...but even if you only replace the old rubber with new, it will be a big improvement. Of course, if you can swing it, poly/delrin all around would be the next step up, and after that solid/monoball. The Poly/Delrin approach can be done for almost the same money as OEM replacement, so definitely worth considering.

After bushings, then tackle springs and dampers. 400# up front with 30mm torsion bars out back is a decent setup, but you can get more aggressive for sure. I think 924RACR is running 600# up front with 33mm t-bars. The Bilstein HDs are the best bang for the buck (IMO), but you might also consider fully adjustable Konis if budget allows. And whatever you do, be sure you add sway bars if your chassis didn't come with them. I've got a bunch of second hand sways lying around if you want something cheap to get you started.

{EDIT}
I also have a complete set of 6Jx15 4-lug spiderwebs with center caps and lug bolts, along with two add'l 4-luggers that could be used as rollers. None of the tires are worth keeping for anything other than rollers.

And, if you need 5-lug, I have a set of 6Jx15 5-lug spiderwebs without centercaps that are painted flat black in really good condition.

You can see the wheels and some of my spare suspension bits that are for sale here:
http://garage.ideola.com/used-Suspension.html
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

[Joes924Racer]

Excited yea thats good to feel. I get excited too, more than you maybe..
I dont know, its a good fresh excited though. Is that your kind?
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1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.

[924RACR]

Yeah, once you've gotten the engine running decently in stock config, I strongly recommend a) the brakes, and b) springs/bars.

Re: brakes - use KFP Golds. No reason to use any other pad, period. They are a no-brainer, you'll never have to worry about brakes with that setup. Fresh ATE Super Blue, and that's all you need. Never needed any cooling ducts with these.

While Dan's right that you can go stiffer, and I have (600#/34mm setup) - it's NOT for beginners!! We've found that now on a few cars we've set up. It's just way too twitchy, unless you want the thing to be as nervous as a rear-brake go-kart. Besides, it's much more expensive, those t-bars are custom order, slow to get, and double the price of the 30's.

I recommend, instead, that you go for the 400/30mm setup.

I was reminded again last weekend just how schitty a stock suspension is on the racetrack, watching a crappy old Dodge Shelby Charger trying to circulate on stock suspension. Reminded me of my first year in the 924 on stock suspension. I'll just ruin your ability to be a part of the party.

Plastic (delrin etc) bushings will be fine for the car; spherical is nice, but not necessary.

Re: shocks: I've heard concerns from 944Spec guys (who run the same suspension) that the Bilsteins can't handle the 400/30mm setup. While the Koni's won't last forever, they may be a better choice. Long-term, custom-valved stuff would be ideal, but you maybe don't have the budget for that...

'Cause you'll need a rear swaybar too. I am very partial to the factory 944 Cup Car bar. While it's not as stiff as the Weltmeister, it's cheaper and better-quality, not to mention bolt-on (as long as your car already had a rear bar). It'll keep the car from pushing so bad, and allow some adjustability. Adjustable endlinks are a good idea too. You can still sell it later if you want to upgrade front and rear to Weltmeister, for flatter cornering.

Finally - setup. None of all these parts is worth a damn if you don't set the suspension up properly. That means corner-balance and align. Fortunately, sounds like you have some local help, who can help you set the car up. You'll want it balanced - should be able to get it dead-nuts on 50/50 cross-weight, or as close as you feel like getting it - and 2.75 deg camber front/rear, with a touch (1/8" tops) toe in on the rear, same 1/8" toe out on the front. Caster, if you go there, as much as you can in the front and be even side-to-side.

I'll PM my phone #, if you want to call and ask questions. I'm thinkin' you'll probably need it.
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[craigddavis83]

Wow awesome display of support thank you guys and I will take all the help I can get and all the setup tips too. I will be watching the boards a lot closer now thanks- Craig
_________________
1977 924 2.0L N/A "The Track Car" (soon!)
1995 Integra 1.8L "The Wife's Sleeper"
1968 Harley XLCH "The Family Heirloom"
2005 Honda CRF50 "The Pit Bike of Doom"