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Clutch bellhousing removal

 
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Euro924S2  



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 215
Location: UK

PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:57 pm    Post subject: Clutch bellhousing removal Reply with quote

Hi Guy's.

As some of you may have read I'm in the process of breaking a series 2 turbo to scavenge the parts needed to transplant the engine into my 924 NA.

So to date I've pulled the engine out (after a few choice words!) and it's now hanging from the hoist ready to have the engine stand bolted to it so i can get on with stripping off the turbo etc etc etc!

Problem is I've removed the bolts holding the bellhousing on and it pulls off about 1" but then stops and won't come off any further. I think it's the clutch fork thats stopping it but I can't see anyway of getting that out either!!! I've looked in the 'book of lies' but it doesn't help at all - surprise surprise!!!!

Can anyone provide any clues?? Cheers. john
_________________
UK spec '83 N/A with 931 motor with Eaton MP62 'charger @ 15psi. EFI - 565cc inj. Standalone Adaptronic ECU. 951 FMIC. Ally rad. Twin throttle. Recirc valve. Custom manifolds and CAI. 232bhp
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Shurick  



Joined: 15 May 2005
Posts: 524
Location: Russia, Moscow.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, you need to pull the clutch fork pivot. It has a threaded hole in the bottom for a sliding hummer. Do not forget to remove the stop screw (under the torque tube flange).
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WBR, Shurick
'79 931 -- intercooled K26-3060-6.10 turbo @ 1.2 bar, EFI+EDIS, 951S brakes, stripped interior, 951 look.
'86 924S -- R.I.P.
https://www.instagram.com/ru_pacecar/
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Euro924S2  



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 215
Location: UK

PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks mate. I've just re-read (for the 3rd time the explanation in the tech section). Problem is there isn't a picture to explain and I'm not sure where to put the slide hammer (i'm sure it will make sence once its apart but at the minute the contence of the turbo bellhousing is a bit of a mystery!!!!)

In the tech section it also mentions using a punch and shows it poking through the access hole in the top of the bellhousing but what am I aiming for exactly???


"The old cars sometimes get enough corrosion to REALLY hold the release lever shaft tight! I have heard of broken housings in the ensuing battle. There IS another way but you must get access to the top of the housing first. (Pull the engine?) Use a punch to drive the shaft out. Miss the stake which locates the shaft"



Cheers.
_________________
UK spec '83 N/A with 931 motor with Eaton MP62 'charger @ 15psi. EFI - 565cc inj. Standalone Adaptronic ECU. 951 FMIC. Ally rad. Twin throttle. Recirc valve. Custom manifolds and CAI. 232bhp
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Shurick  



Joined: 15 May 2005
Posts: 524
Location: Russia, Moscow.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can drive it out from the top, but be careful not to damage the stop pin inside the bellhousing.
I've also used alternative way: take a bolt and a large washer. Screw it in the pivot and insert a pair of really large wrenches between washer and bellhousing. So then the bolt will pull pivot from the housing gently.
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WBR, Shurick
'79 931 -- intercooled K26-3060-6.10 turbo @ 1.2 bar, EFI+EDIS, 951S brakes, stripped interior, 951 look.
'86 924S -- R.I.P.
https://www.instagram.com/ru_pacecar/
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nwns  



Joined: 27 Sep 2008
Posts: 93
Location: Lancashire, UK

PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having spent many an hour doing this I found that a punch and a big hammer was the only way! You need to put it through the hole in the other side from the threaded, flush side. You must undo the screw that holds it in and then belt it! This is difficult because you'll have the pin in the way so you'll be slightly off centre.

I'll see if I took some pics of it and post them if so.
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Pete
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Euro924S2  



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 215
Location: UK

PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers mate. I'll be honest, I did have a look down that hole but didn't see much! But now I (sort of) know what I'm looking for I'll have another go when I get home in an hour or so and I'll post my experience!!!

Fingers crossed for a rather than a

John
_________________
UK spec '83 N/A with 931 motor with Eaton MP62 'charger @ 15psi. EFI - 565cc inj. Standalone Adaptronic ECU. 951 FMIC. Ally rad. Twin throttle. Recirc valve. Custom manifolds and CAI. 232bhp
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ic932  



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
Posts: 1104
Location: UK

PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I concour, once the needle bearings cut into the shaft, coupled with general corrosion a big hit from above is the way to go.

Or you could postpone the problem by removing the 9 pressureplate bolts. That way you can remove the bellhousing/PP as an assembly then sort it out on the bench.
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Euro924S2  



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 215
Location: UK

PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well guys it's a big thumbs up!!! I now realise why i didn't see the first time I looked! It was so thick with old clutch dust that it was pretty well hidden!!! I used a combination of the hit it with a punch (I actually used a 6" nail as it's nice and thin, long enough and has a point to stop it sliding off) that workeed really well with only a small (ish) hammer needed, I then screwed a bolt (one of the smaller once off the bell housing ?M6 ) into the emerging pin and used an improvised slide hammer by knocking on an adjustable spanner on the shaft.

For future searchers - check out the tech section - there is a photo there showing where the punch/6" nail goes - if you look down that hole with the aid of a light you'll see a a shaft about 12mm in diameter end on with a pin perpendicular to it which is there to stop the said shaft being re-inserted too far. You need to knock the shaft out without hitting the pin as you don't want to bend it - it's only about 5mm thick.

Trust me - once your looking down the right hole it's pretty easy to suss out what's what!!!

Thanks again fella's
_________________
UK spec '83 N/A with 931 motor with Eaton MP62 'charger @ 15psi. EFI - 565cc inj. Standalone Adaptronic ECU. 951 FMIC. Ally rad. Twin throttle. Recirc valve. Custom manifolds and CAI. 232bhp
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Shurick  



Joined: 15 May 2005
Posts: 524
Location: Russia, Moscow.

PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's good to hear that you've done it.=)
_________________
WBR, Shurick
'79 931 -- intercooled K26-3060-6.10 turbo @ 1.2 bar, EFI+EDIS, 951S brakes, stripped interior, 951 look.
'86 924S -- R.I.P.
https://www.instagram.com/ru_pacecar/
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ic932  



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
Posts: 1104
Location: UK

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I fear that no news is bad news (in this case). Was the flywheel scored?) Silence..or is this thread dead?
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