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G31 shifter always pulls to the right.
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gabo931  



Joined: 26 Feb 2015
Posts: 21
Location: Puerto Rico

PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:38 am    Post subject: G31 shifter always pulls to the right. Reply with quote

Hi guys. Just bought my first 931! it is a 1980 931 with the M471 option and LSD g31.

The car was Mexico beige/Mocha black but right now is stripped down and I plan painting it Mexico Blue . Currently it does not start because the turbo is out getting rebuild. My main problem is that the shifter always pulls to the right, and I have not seen a thread about that specific problem.

I have searched through threads about my topic but have not found my exact problem. The transmission goes into gears well, but it pulls to the right in every gear.

Any help or recommendations would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Gabriel

http://imageshack.com/a/img540/7161/TfGFT5.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img907/6549/ZFCQjH.jpg




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1980 931 M471 LSD
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would verify the transaxle mounts and the shift linkage bushings are in good shape.

I suspect the tie-rod that is mounted on the top of the torque tube came loose:



There's a spring on some that helps center the shifter, but that sort of movement looks like a linkage issue possibly being exacerbated by the centering spring.

Here are more pics from my 79 924 which uses the slightly less strong version of your transaxle, but the linkage is very similar:

http://s148.photobucket.com/user/fiat22turbo/library/Porsche924/shiftlinkage

Good luck and welcome!
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Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)
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gabo931  



Joined: 26 Feb 2015
Posts: 21
Location: Puerto Rico

PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply!

Going to verify it later today.

Thanks,
Gabriel
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kevingross  



Joined: 15 Apr 2015
Posts: 35
Location: Stow, MA, USA

PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did Derek Zoolander perhaps own your car in the past?
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gabo931  



Joined: 26 Feb 2015
Posts: 21
Location: Puerto Rico

PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the updates about the car will be posted here.

http://931.nutdesigns.com

Thanks!
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TurboTom  



Joined: 11 Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Location: Lebanon, TN

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm having the same problem with my 80 924 turbo, The front end of the guide rod seems to be fine so I am thinking the nut on the other end has come loose or the attach bolt has come out. Is there any kind of a access panel under the rear seat to get into the top of the top of the transaxle?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TurboTom wrote:
Is there any kind of a access panel under the rear seat to get into the top of the top of the transaxle?

Unfortunately not. You have two options: cut your own access panel (not recommended on a street car), or remove the transaxle. Simply put, there is no way to get to the ball-cup socket on the end of the guide tube with the trans in situ. Removing the trans isn't really that bad of a job, I've done it probably 6 or 7 times on my back with the car on jack stands. Of course, access to a lift and proper trans jack makes it a LOT easier.

I'd recommend removal of the trans because you almost certainly need to replace the bushings in the shift rod as well. This is another job that is nearly impossible with the shift rod in the car because the pin that holds the universal coupler and bushings to the rod has to be pressed out and back in.
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TurboTom  



Joined: 11 Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Location: Lebanon, TN

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank for your quick input. I have the back up on blocks under the shock towers. Is that the best location?
If I dropped the exhaust system, stub shafts, and transaxle can I then get to the shift rod and support rod or would I also need to drop the torque tube/drive shaft assy? I guess my first question should be, do you think that my problem with the shifter is caused from something that came loose on the end of the support rod?
The car only has 62,000 miles and the bushings that I can see in the front look to be fine. Do the bushings in the back get that much more wear?
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2595
Location: MI

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TurboTom wrote:

The car only has 62,000 miles and the bushings that I can see in the front look to be fine. Do the bushings in the back get that much more wear?


My front bushings are perfect, but my rears are shot. I was able to get my hand on the shift coupler with the GF wiggling the shifter and I could feel the slop in the coupler pin.

My car is the same as yours with similar mileage so I guess its par for the course..

Mine does not pull to the right but is sloppy in gear.
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TurboTom  



Joined: 11 Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Location: Lebanon, TN

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just checked the foward and aft movement at the shift rod to shifter pin and get about 1/4 to 3/8 movement before it starts to go into a gear. I guess that could be caused by worn bushings.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TurboTom wrote:
I just checked the foward and aft movement at the shift rod to shifter pin and get about 1/4 to 3/8 movement before it starts to go into a gear. I guess that could be caused by worn bushings.


Indeed.

Yes, drop the rear exhaust section, the half shafts (good time for an inspection and repack, make sure to replace the bolts with new OEM or the Stage8 units that I sell), and then drop the trans. With the trans out, you can maneuver the torque tube enough to get to the ball cup socket. You will need to undo the clips at the shift lever so you can pull the shift selector rod out and refurb the bushings on the bench. A vice or a press will be required to push out the pin.

Best jack stand support points for this job is the torsion bar extensions just forward of the rear wheels and outside of the frame.
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TurboTom  



Joined: 11 Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Location: Lebanon, TN

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to rebuild the waste gate too so better get to work. The turbo may also be beyond help. I bought this car new and owned it for 20 years. Sold it to an idiot who owned it for 15 years, drove 12,000 miles and managed to almost ruin it. Some people should never be allowed to own a fine auto. My mistake, I should have kept it. It will not be the same again but I hope to at least get it driving again. Thank you all for your input.
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TurboTom  



Joined: 11 Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Location: Lebanon, TN

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The guide rod has a cup on the end of it and there is a ball mounted to the torque tube. It appears thet the cup is held to the ball with some sort of internal snap ring which is not there. Does anyone know a supplier that would have that special snap ring?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no snap ring. It just presses on to the ball. I have seen one or two instances where the guide tube is safety-wired around the torque tube to help prevent it from coming off. Good idea on a race car, but I've been too lazy to bother on any of my street cars.
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TurboTom  



Joined: 11 Aug 2015
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Location: Lebanon, TN

PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 1:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All I have is the cup with no guts in it. I can set it down on the ball but there is nothing to retain it to the ball. Seem to me what ever was in there has broken and fallen out. I guess I will have to find a cup assy somewhere.
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