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Turbo Bolts
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 3:49 am    Post subject: Turbo Bolts Reply with quote

Reassembly time is nigh. I am considering ditching the allen head cap nuts that hold the bearing housing to the bracket. . .they are so old, and made from such odd material, how can they not be worn out?

So, I have two questions. First, any reason not to use a locking hex nut? And second, how does one adjust for torque values when switching from a regular to locking nut?

TIA


rasta
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 4:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know that there is a difference in torque settings between a locking nut and a non-locking nut.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Intuition would tell me that you would measure the torque required to "spin" the nut on, then add this to the published torque value for the fastner.

That is, of course, if you use the same thread as you did previously. The thread pitch largely determines the correct torque for any application, as it's the clamping force that is important. Bolt diameter is important too so that the bolt stretches the correct amount, to ensure the bolt is under continuous tension given the dynamic loads of the part.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have regular hex bolts on my car (PO changed them and I continued to use them), works nice and is so much easier to assemble/disassemble than the allen ones.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fiat22turbo wrote:
I don't know that there is a difference in torque settings between a locking nut and a non-locking nut.


Of course there is, for the same reason that some torque specs specify dry or wet threads, and some even change according to type of lubricant (think ARP head studs).

The locking nut resists torque, so is not giving the same amount of bolt stretch as non-locking.
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What he said, you need to add the run down torque to the desired torque
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ic932  



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been awhile, but these are very low torque bolts no? Unless you feel its benificial to easy instalation (lock nuts) then I would just torque then to spec (whatever that might be) then nip them up a lil' more. I doubt I got a torque wrench that is that low...just feel when its good.
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
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Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your going to be that picky about torque you better simply measure bolt elongation instead. Since such things as bolt coatings effect their friction factor as well as lubrication. Cadmium plating for example produces approximately 33% less friction than untreated steel. Were as lubrication only changes it by 5%. I'd suggest measuring elongation or you could also use load indicating washers to detect when the correct torque has been achieved.

Torque wrenches aren't really that accurate in the first place really. Their relative accuracy is pretty low.

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/tighten.htm for more information.

http://www.turnasure.com/direct-tension-indicators-turnasure-bolting-technology.shtml

for some tension indicating washers.

Min
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

could also get yourself some 'squirter' DTI washers (direct tension indicating)

http://appliedbolting.com/squirters.html

They squirt out silicon when they are at the correct tension.

Min
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stock ones work and I've reused them before.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to look at Stage8 locking bolts and nuts for the exhaust mani and turbo applications on my upcoming Euro spec engine build...
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Paul  



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd stick with the stock ones, they were specified to withstand the red hot heat.
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

personally if I was interested in locking those fasteners properly, I'd just use a jamnut method (assuming there is enough room)

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/twonuts.htm

Min
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
I'd stick with the stock ones, they were specified to withstand the red hot heat.

Ummm....heheh, that's actually how I discovered Stage8, because of their header bolts. They are used all the time on exhaust manifolds and turbocharged applications for other platforms. Should be just fine for the 931.
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Paul  



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alrighty then, but if you are wrong, what a PITA to swap out.
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