924Board.org

[czechsmola]

I know this is a forum for 924 but I still want a opinion...

I found this car and if the maintenance records are correct it should still have some life left in it...do you guys think its worth it? and what should I be looking for when I go look at the car...

also what might a newly rebuilt engine cost me or better yet an engine that i could rebuild

http://kingston.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-1987-Porsche-944-1999-W0QQAdIdZ190471280

[Grenadiers]

They might ship!

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/1642058734.html
_________________
'83 944 Track car.
'88 924S Track car.
'89 944 Turbo
2004 Winnebago Vectra monster RV
2012 Jeep Wrangler
2014 Kia Soul
2001 Ford F350 powerstroke

[Paul]

Get a pre purchase inspection done to determine what needs attention and make a decision based on the cost of the car plus needed repairs.
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.

[sbarc]

300,000km is only 186,000 miles
Don't discount the current motor too quickly. I have a friend in the US that is a huge 944 fan and he says this particular motor is good for 300,000 MILES (500,000km). He says....stay away from the pre-85.5 cars due to all the issues that they had with wiring gremlins. The later 4 valve 944's are a real blast due to the extra HP......but they do use a bit more gas and the engines are more costly to fix. The '87 you are considering is the ultimate sweet spot in the 944 line. It's post 85.5.....so it's very relaible........engine is rock solid and very reliable if taken care of.......and simple to fix if you're motivated......plus the gas mileage is fairly decent.

Get it checked out and base your decision on that.

BTW....the MPG for this car in 5 spd (US Gallon I'm assuming) is 17 city and 24 HWY.....which is pretty decent.

1990 944S2 with 4 valve head gets 15 city and 24 HWY

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymake/bymanuNF.shtml

My 1990 928 GT is rated at 11mpg city and 18 hwy.....but it seldoms sees the hwy. 11mpg is pretty dismal.
_________________
1981 931 (Canadian car)
1981 931 (US car)
1990 928GT (ROW car)
1991 Toyota MR2
1989 Toyota MR2 Super Charged
1985 Toyota Supra
1973 Triumph GT6
1971 Opel GT

[924guy]

t belt was done 25k ago, over half the service life is used up there, price seems decent though at the us equivalent of $1500 or so...
_________________
Eric
78 924
82 931 SE "smokey"
99' VehiCross
Y2K Honda Insight
http://www.cardomain.com/id/924Guy
Performance by Pasha

[gohim]

The photos look good, but you can't trust them alone. Pre-Purchase Inspection is good advice. Parts for 944s are not cheap, and for many/most of them there aren't any good generic alternatives.

If the timing belt is 3 years, old, regardless of the miles, the FOES (front of engine service) is going to be due soon ( schedule recommended is 3 years or 30K miles, whichever comes first). This is an expensive service requiring special tools and special experience/knowledge only used on water cooled Porsche engines. figure $700-$1500 US for parts, plus the labor (total of around $1200-$2500 US, depending on who you buy the parts from and who does the labor).

Check for documentation to show when the FOES was done last and what was done. Many people cheap out, and only have the timing belt and/or balance shaft belt replaced. A full FOES includes timing belt, balance shaft belt, waterpump, all bearing equipped rollers and pulleys, and the front of engine oil seals. If there isn't any documentation of a complete FOES, it's overdue, and you should take into consideration, that you will need to pay for a full FOES immediately should you buy this car.

[9xx]

[924guy]

[czechsmola]

I am going to go have a look soon i hope... also what are some things that look for a point out to try and haggle on the price a bit..

[924guy]

be paranoid about the front end service, if they cant provide records, especially if the odometer isnt working.
look for the infamous battery try leaks/corrosion. check the floors on the interior for dampness. And check around the wiper motor area for stress cracks, some will leak water there as well.
check the hatch frame across the top, if it moves at all when you open the hatch, it will leak
check front sway bar bushings for condition, and look for loose ball joints while your there. if they are still riveted in, they are original and will need to be replaced. replacements are bolted in, not riveted. pay extra attention to the right side, they go sooner than the left for some reason.
check both sides interior window switches, they corrode internally and sometimes snap on their pivot points and will feel wobbly and soft.
check all blower fan speeds and a/c
check for loose bushing resulting sloppy shifting.
check e-brake operation, cables can stretch, or snap requiring replacement.
check the strut towers for separation of the strut bearings, theyre supposed to be one piece. when they get old they will separate and become many pieces.


theres more... but that should give you a start...
_________________
Eric
78 924
82 931 SE "smokey"
99' VehiCross
Y2K Honda Insight
http://www.cardomain.com/id/924Guy
Performance by Pasha

[9xx]

- Also check that the coolant is clean and there is no oily residue. Pull the dipstick in order to see that oil is free from moisture (no milkshake).

- Open the drivers side door and look right. There is a small black vent. This vent has a small clip that you can push with your finger and then you can pull the vent out. Look into the hole with a flashlight. You'll be able to see what is going on in the drivers side sill. Why? Because on one picture you can see a black thing that covers the sill. What is it trying to hide, massive rust? Really check this out!
_________________
Mikko

All gone: 931 '82 Alpine White, original option "220" G31 with LSD + 3 x 944