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ace924
Joined: 08 Mar 2010 Posts: 6 Location: wolverhampton (uk)
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Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:12 am Post subject: 924 1982 running problems |
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hi all ive just bought a porsche 924 1982 for a project and ive always wanted 1 as a child.
i bought it know ing had a fuel problem i was told it was running really rich and when hot it wouldnt start unless you put jump leads on and keep it turning over eventually it started but when cold a few turns and away it went but very slow no power (but i am used to a 400bhp subaru)
a mate said its not firing right so today i changed plugs leads and dizzy cap now i cant get it running at all it tries buts miss fires really bad and when i removed the new plugs they were very wet and black looked oily but smelt like fuel.
i hope ive explained this ok i am new to porsche but can turn a ford or subaru engine inside out in a day so dont mind getting dirty
please help thanx alot |
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Ozzie

Joined: 12 Mar 2005 Posts: 4448 Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia
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Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:05 am Post subject: |
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Definitely running rich.
do a search and look for your answers. been asked many times.
Tuning the CIS is not a black art. If you want it perfect you need a CO tester but you can get it running reasonably well without it.
As the UK doesnt have a catalytic converter the exhaust pipe is a good indicator. If it is black and sooty- too rich.
Whitish grey - too lean. Dark grey - just right.
Other fuel problems could be- leaky injectors or cold start valve, bad WUR
Double check your valve and ign timing as well. _________________ Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance |
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ace924
Joined: 08 Mar 2010 Posts: 6 Location: wolverhampton (uk)
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Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 6:27 am Post subject: |
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thanx mate i have search before i posted and still am but cant find no help.
never mind thanx anyway |
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9XX Girl!

Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Posts: 1617 Location: Cornish Riviera SW England
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ace924
Joined: 08 Mar 2010 Posts: 6 Location: wolverhampton (uk)
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Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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thanx 9xx girl i checked timimng it all lines up tdc then set dizzy cap to lead 1 everything is in order .
it just want run without my foot on the pedal and sound really rough more like a twim and engine shakes alot. |
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9XX Girl!

Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Posts: 1617 Location: Cornish Riviera SW England
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Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:22 pm Post subject: |
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| ace924 wrote: | thanx 9xx girl i checked timimng it all lines up tdc then set dizzy cap to lead 1 everything is in order .
it just want run without my foot on the pedal and sound really rough more like a twim and engine shakes alot. |
Before you start, make sure your plugs are clean, dry and gaped correctly.
Start him up and set a high idle even if you have to wedge a screwdriver in the throttle leavers to do so. Remove each plug lead one at a time, .
Pull off #1 first, if it gets worse, that plug is ok, if it does not change that plug isn't working. (could be lead, plug, rotorarm or dissy, coil)
Do the same for each plug lead, i.e. #2,#3,#4.
If it gets worse on all, you next need to check you injector spray patten.
You can do this by pulling one injector, sticking it in a bottle. Now you need to plug the hole where you took the injector from before you start it up.
Start him up and make sure you got a nice cone shaped spray patten from that injector, also, that it dont drip when you shut him off. then replace it and move to the next one.
Only mess withe the injectors if you are sure you are getting a good spark on each plug at the correct time.
Do this for each injector in turn. _________________ 924 (84) N/A 2 ltr - 5 Speed - BLACK - Project (looking for 200BHP, any ideas!)
924 (81) N/A 2 ltr - 3 Speed Auto - SURINAM RED (Metallic) - Near Original Spec (sticking with originality)
BOTH ON THE ROAD, BOTH USED EVERY-OTHER DAY |
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ace924
Joined: 08 Mar 2010 Posts: 6 Location: wolverhampton (uk)
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Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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| thanx alot i will try that but as i said ive fitted nes dizzy cap leads and plugs but thanx i will try that now |
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9XX Girl!

Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Posts: 1617 Location: Cornish Riviera SW England
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Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:10 pm Post subject: |
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Double check you timing first by "static timing method".
Line the notch on the inside edge of the crank pulley wheel with the pointer on the water pump.
(you can turn the crank pulley with a 24mm socket - make sure you turn it the correct direction - to check direction, put the car in top gear, drop the hand brake and push the car forward a little and note direction)
Check the dot on the inside edge of the cam wheel lines up with the pointer on the cam cover. (if not turn the crank wheel another 360 deg)
Look through the oil filler to make sure both inlet and exhaust valves are in the up (closed) position.
Remove plug #1 and put it back on the HT lead then earth the plug, (so that you can see it spark)
Put a screwdriver down the spark plug hole to check your piston is at TDC.
Now undo the dizzy clamp.
Right now turn on the ignition and rotate the dizzy slightly back and forth. The rotation action should cause the #1 plug to spark if all is correct.
If it does, you have spark timing close. (TDC) remember you need it to be at 10 deg Before TDC to get it running right _________________ 924 (84) N/A 2 ltr - 5 Speed - BLACK - Project (looking for 200BHP, any ideas!)
924 (81) N/A 2 ltr - 3 Speed Auto - SURINAM RED (Metallic) - Near Original Spec (sticking with originality)
BOTH ON THE ROAD, BOTH USED EVERY-OTHER DAY |
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9XX Girl!

Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Posts: 1617 Location: Cornish Riviera SW England
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Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:23 pm Post subject: |
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You have got the leads on right haven't you?
 _________________ 924 (84) N/A 2 ltr - 5 Speed - BLACK - Project (looking for 200BHP, any ideas!)
924 (81) N/A 2 ltr - 3 Speed Auto - SURINAM RED (Metallic) - Near Original Spec (sticking with originality)
BOTH ON THE ROAD, BOTH USED EVERY-OTHER DAY |
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ace924
Joined: 08 Mar 2010 Posts: 6 Location: wolverhampton (uk)
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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 3:30 am Post subject: |
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again thanx alot i cant thank you enough for this help.
timimg is bang on leads are on in the correct order . i dont quite understand the 10 degree part ?? if i couls get it running enough to get to my local garage would help.
before i changed the leads plugs and cap it started and ran on just wouldnt start when hot without draining the battery (needed leads)
to be honest i never noticed it wasnt firing right it was a mate who said to change all the leads and stuf ?? |
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Mike924

Joined: 12 Aug 2004 Posts: 2601 Location: IoW UK
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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:45 am Post subject: |
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Firstly, even when it's running great, a 924 won't ever feel as quick as a 400 bhp Subaru!
The CIS has two 'weak' points. One is the WUR (warm-up regulator) and the other is the accumulator.
The WUR provides the enrichment function when the engine's cold. When it stops doing that (usually because the valve clogs/rusts up), unscrupulous sellers sometimes compensate for this by turning up the richness adjustment at the fuel distributor to at least get the car to start. The consquence of this is that it engine runs very rich once it's warmed up.
One of the main functions of the accumulator is to maintain pressure in the system while the engine cools after it's turned off, to prevent vapour locks in the fuel lines. The infamous K-jet hot-start problem is usually cause by a leaky accumulator.
Unfortunately neither of these items cheap. Doubly unfortunately there is no substitute to replacing these items. Whilst used, working WURs can be had, I'd steer clear of used accumulators. From my (not so) extensive research into the matter, it appears the diaphragm in the accumulators becomes leaky with age... _________________ 1985 Porsche 924 'Lux', Kalahari Beige (my ex)
1993 Porsche 968 Coupe, Midnight Blue, 6 spd
'There is no substitute for a little grease under your fingernails.' - Chrenan, 924board.org |
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ace924
Joined: 08 Mar 2010 Posts: 6 Location: wolverhampton (uk)
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Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 5:52 am Post subject: |
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quick update folkes...
got car running to what seemed really good no problems . park it up leave it a while go back to it and i get the old flat battery syndrome ???
so i played with the dizzy a bit hey presto starts wicked i though again got it hot left it go back and started problem solved ???? nah not a chance lol
this time i went for a good drive after a while it started what i can only discribe as firing on 3 struugling to move .
any ides folks please ??? |
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Smoothie

Joined: 01 Jan 2003 Posts: 8032 Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)
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Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 6:22 am Post subject: |
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One sign that the starter solenoid is gunked-up (dirty) is that it'll kick in and turn the engine when cold, but will not when the engine's hot. -And you won't even hear a click (because the solenoid can't move).
I would put the timing back to where it was when it was running good.
Next time it won't start when warm/hot, give it more time to cool, and see if that alone doesn't get it to go. If it does start after more cooling, it's very likely time for a new solenoid.
Other things to check/clean are the battery post connections, battery(-)-to-chassis grounding, wiring to the starter (924NAs often develop hidden corrosion within the insulation of these wires), and (+)wiring to the alternator, its' grounding(-), and alt. belt alignment and tension.. _________________ "..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."
'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox |
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