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Exhaust Stud FAIL

 
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:31 am    Post subject: Exhaust Stud FAIL Reply with quote

So, I was removing exhaust studs today in order to replace them with superceded (non-breaking) parts. Two came out with fuxxored threads and lovely aluminum chunks (should the machinist have investigated this on the bench. . .should I have reminded him. . .strong maybes to both).

My question: which is better, threaded inserts, or step studs?

In my mind, the advantage of the inserts would be the ability to use the magic superceded studs, the material of which is intended for brutal heat cycling.

The advantage of the step studs would seem to be the fact that there would only be two types of metal interacting in this harsh environment instead of three.

Thoughts? Experiences? Has anyone helicoiled a 931 head before?

Thanks, as always.


rasta
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Different metals are only a problem if they get wet, they need an electrolyite. As the exhaust studs a) get really hot and b) live under the bonnet slated down all the time, they are unlikely to stay wet for long enough to be a problem.

I would helicoil them, it also means that if you ever have a problem in future you don't have a mix of stepped threads and normal jobbies.

Aslo helicoils are easy to put in to ali... Just tie a bit of cotton thread around the 'tail' that way you can be sure it comes out...
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What Rich said.

Helicoils are the go. Personally did all the exhaust stud holes and would suggest others do the same. Presume this is on your new engine and is not yet fitted. Complete bastard to do with the engine in if at all possible. So easy to do all now and never have this problem again.

Get a M8 kit that includes the correct tap and more than sufficient coils. Usually include the applicator but a slotted rod does the same thing. A kit would be from $20 - $50 and packets of extra coils are quite cheap. Usually dont need drilling but drill size is listed, so only use that, and it is critical to keep drill straight and centred. Some taps have a original (M size starter thread and will enlarge & tap in one pass. Screw the inserts at least 1/2 - 1 threads inside the face.

Haven`t heard of the cotton tail trick. The tangs are notched to break off easy, just twist applicator backwards or knock with a punch. As they`re blind holes will easily come out with compressed air, long nose pliers or gravity if the motor is still on a stand.

These pics are of the oil sender hole but same method used.



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Rich H  



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cotton trick prevents having to arse about with air/pliers/etc
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Rasta Monsta  



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great feedback, thanks fellers!
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich H wrote:
Cotton trick prevents having to arse about with air/pliers/etc

While I don`t know about you Rich the only cotton in my garage is woven into clothing or rags. I do however have air/ pliers/ gravity/ grease and a degree of impatience when it comes to fiddly little tasks that can easily be avoided.

Although if the missus is doing it .............

Sure it may have some applications in hollow holes leading to engine internals but then I would be concerned that the cotton would break/ fatigue from the applicator while screwing in.

Rasta, sounds like a job for Shari while you do the screwing. Have fun.
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Rich H  



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can only agree with Rich and Rog (is that a new pop group?).

If the head is off the block or the whole motor is out, inspect the exhaust manifold side very carefully and reclaim any dodgy threads. As a matter of course I renew ALL exhaust manifold threads.
Forget all the malarky written about the 931 heads - they are a poor and soft casting and excessive heat cycles will only exacerbate the brittleness of a 30+ year old casting.

Oh and don't forget the plug holes while the head is off!
And the timing belt tensioner bolt hole - in fact any thread that will see regular usage or high tensioning force.

Like Rog I use Helicoils, however the boxer motor brigade prefer TimeCerts. There are others on the market as well.
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
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Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used Recoil and V-coil inserts - they are all the same pretty much - but get a kit with a drill bit in it - makes life easier than finding a single 8.3mm (~11/64" IIRC) drill amongst your tools...
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
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Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 2:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Problem with step studs is the step becomes a hardcore stress concentrator that can easily double the stress in the stud at the step even if its smoothly radiused. Another vote for helicoil.

Min
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