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warm start - testing in tank fuel pump

 
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windwaiver  



Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 69
Location: reno, nv

PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 5:25 am    Post subject: warm start - testing in tank fuel pump Reply with quote

Ok, how do you test the in tank fuel pump. I have tried the full throttle start technique and it works sometimes. Seems like it is starving for fuel, If i manually actuate the CSV (pushbutton mod) prior to cranking, it starts, but real slow. Still fighting the beast.
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77.5 924 NA
81 924 na (great parts car)
82 924 NA
87 944S this is gonna cost
00 K1200LT

If i had a nickel for everytime I screwed up.......
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9126
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've gotten the impression the in-tank pump is more for high-flow needs... but anyway...

I figured mine was bad when it would barely make any noise. I disconnected the external pump to cut down on noise, then jumped the relay - result, not much. To confirm, I then removed the outlet hose and again applied power - no improvement in the flow of fuel.

When I removed it, the cause was clear - it was heavily caked with either mud or rust.

Of course, sometimes an ohmmeter/multimeter will show a problem if there's a break etc...

HTH...
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'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
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windwaiver  



Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 69
Location: reno, nv

PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 2:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, still fighting the warm restart problem, car isn't worth anything when its hard to start until it cools off enough for the WUR. Least thats what it seems like. I can start it with the pushbutton mod most of the time.
_________________
77.5 924 NA
81 924 na (great parts car)
82 924 NA
87 944S this is gonna cost
00 K1200LT

If i had a nickel for everytime I screwed up.......
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windwaiver  



Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 69
Location: reno, nv

PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok heres what I know, any help out there of a past similar problem would really help.

The timing on the car says it is supposed to be set at 0 deg +-1deg. With it set to the spec, my vacuum is at 10#s. Setting the timing up to approx 12 I get 14 to 15 #s vacuum. Which means way more power.

I performed a leak down test of the engine and found all cylinders within 10% all around 13% leakage. All timing marks are lined up correctly, I have checked this too many times. I just ordered some new vacuum lines, (replaced most of them already) going to install silicone lines.
_________________
77.5 924 NA
81 924 na (great parts car)
82 924 NA
87 944S this is gonna cost
00 K1200LT

If i had a nickel for everytime I screwed up.......
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