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wombat  



Joined: 07 Jun 2008
Posts: 422
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 9:13 pm    Post subject: question Reply with quote

Sorry for stating a new thread for this question I will try to keep all future questions in this thread.

The pan under the engine its official name is "Protective plate" and it has no mechanical significance but I would like to get it right:- How exactly does it mount and to what? (the reason I ask is that I have a series of non matching screws and bolts and 2 wooden 1" spacers all of which I am sure are not standard mounting equipment) I can work out from the PET that the bolts are supposed to be M6 15mm but where do they all go to. It looks like someone has bent the tabs up and put more holes in it so the bolts now go in from the side with the stupid spaces and I am not sure if the other holes are original or later.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have the correct one for your car?
Different types, and mounting points are mentioned here - http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=22931
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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As for the "where do they mount" question, on my cars, regardless of style of pan, all of the bolts attach to "speed nut" style clips. If there are non-OEM screws and spacers, then it's a sure bet the original clips are long gone.
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 4459
Location: Rialto, CA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 2:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The protective plate has mechanical and functional purposes.

#1 It protects the engine compartment components from road debris.

#2 It helps direct/control the flow of cooling air through the engine compartment.

#3 Reinforces the front lower valance.

There are three attachment holes in the front lower valance that mstch up with holes in the front of the protection plate. The nuts are captured by the sheet metal folded over them.

There are two attachment holes one the sides, one on each side. The nuts are captured in the frame rails/extensions.

There are a series of holes at the rear of the protection pan. Some (I think three) are for mounting a rubber air deflector/director that came standard on 931s (not supplied on 924 models, but I mounted one on my 924 anyway). If I remember correctly there are two additional holes secure the rear edge of the protective pan to the front crossmember.

All bolts are the same size, and are used with washers. No spacers are used, the protective pan mounts directly against all attachment points.
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wombat  



Joined: 07 Jun 2008
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Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks alot guys, I will have a good look at it tomorrow.

I think that I will also do stainless braided brake lines tomorrow, and rebuild my front calipers. I hope this fixes my problems with the spongey pedel.
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924guy  



Joined: 29 Dec 2003
Posts: 2088
Location: Port St. Lucie, FL

PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

does anyone have pictures of both early and late pans installed? preferably with the car on a lift, i cant recall seeing any and a picture is worth a thousand words as to orientation and mount points. id think it would need to be from a few feet out to be useful, which would be a difficult shot to get...
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78 924
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1446
Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The protective plate has mechanical and functional purposes.

#1 It protects the engine compartment components from road debris.

#2 It helps direct/control the flow of cooling air through the engine compartment.

#3 Reinforces the front lower valance.


Dude you forgot the most important purpose of all: It catches tools and misc parts when they fall... And leaky oil.
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wombat  



Joined: 07 Jun 2008
Posts: 422
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

924guy wrote:
does anyone have pictures of both early and late pans installed? preferably with the car on a lift, i cant recall seeing any and a picture is worth a thousand words as to orientation and mount points. id think it would need to be from a few feet out to be useful, which would be a difficult shot to get...


I will try to post one when I am done with mine that would be an early pan.
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wombat  



Joined: 07 Jun 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok another engine bay related question here I have two wires in the engine bay with the "fuel injector type" two pin plug on them one was a spare that was always just hanging in the engine bay and the other was running to the cold start valve is there any easy way to tell which is which by checking voltage or something??? Yes I have gotten them mixed up at some point and cant tell them apart.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's for the CSV, it should only show voltage while the starter is running, for up to about 10 seconds. If for a supplementary start valve, it'll show voltage only while starting, if the engine is hot. If for the WUR or AAV, it's powered through the fuel pump relay and will show voltage for the full time that the engine is running.
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wombat  



Joined: 07 Jun 2008
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Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you, exactly what I needed, but after posting I figured that I could probably work out the answer by my self and that I was wasting peoples time posting however I had not had the time to think about it yet and when I came home from work today your reply was there. So thanks again and next time I will try to use my own brain.
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wombat  



Joined: 07 Jun 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that smoothie.

I still have a problem down there however. One of these wires was showing no voltage at all and the other was showing 12v the entire time it was being cranked so I guessed that it was not for the CSV however when I checked the AAV and the WRU they also showed 12v the entire time it was being cranked (it was unable to run because I the injectors out). so I jumpped the fuel pump relay between pins 30 and 87 and checked the voltage on all of my wires the ones running to the AAV and WRU showed voltage when jumpped while the one that had voltage while being cranked showed no voltage when the fuel pump relay was jumpped. So I am guessing that this was supposed to go to the CSV however when I traced back the wires they ran back into the firewall nowhere near the thermo time switch. so all in all I am guessing that I had a spare wire because at some point the PO took out the link to the thermo time switch and ran it straight to a wire that showed voltage only while being cranked. This does explain why if it dosent start first or second time I have to leave it for a while and try again. Any ideas on if and how I should fix this???
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wombat wrote:
I am guessing that I had a spare wire because at some point the PO took out the link to the thermo time switch and ran it straight to a wire that showed voltage only while being cranked.

Normal factory wiring has the AAV and WUR wired together and routed through the firewall to the fuse-relay panel, while the CSV-TTS wiring is contained within the engine compartment. It's shown in the wiring diagram.

Voltage to the TTS-CSV only while cranking is correct. The TTS is powered by the 50 circuit - that is only while the starter is cranking. The CSV is powered by the TTS which limits CSV operation to a max of something like 10 seconds.
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wombat  



Joined: 07 Jun 2008
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Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes this is sort of how mine is except i cranked for well over 10 secs and still had voltage at the CSV connector. The others seem good.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, your TTS may be allowing your CSV to spray too long, but I may have a similar problem with my car.. It will always start, but if I don't keep it running by blipping the throttle and it stalls, I'll have to hold throttle to the floor for an immediate re-start attempt - then if it's allowed to stall again, I'll have to wait a while because no amount of fiddling with the throttle will get it to start at that point. Question is, does it need time to sit because it's flooded? -or because the TTS needs time to cool down and reset so it sprays more fuel for the restart attempt?
Either way, I suspect the problem is poor fuel atomization and a good professional ultrasonic cleaning of the injectors might be what's needed. (Assuming all vacuum leaks have been eliminated, A:F mix is correct, grounds are clean, AAV is functioning correctly, etc.)
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