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Replacing Cam Cover Gasket
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jrrhdmust  



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
Posts: 180
Location: Middle Georgia

PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 6:16 am    Post subject: Replacing Cam Cover Gasket Reply with quote

Ok so I get the opportunity to replace the Cam cover gasket on my 924s.

I am fortunate to have the maintenance records and receipts - the last time the timing belt was replaced was 35k-40k ago, and the rollers were replaced 9 years ago. I have no idea on the water pump it is a new model though.

So I figure if I am pulling the timing belt to replace the gasket, I will do it all per se.

So by my calculations I need:

Complete Timing Belt, Balance Belt and rollers.
Obviously the Cam Gasket
Water Pump - I am going to go ahead and replace it

Anything else while I am in there? What about the oil cooler - I have not researched where it is as opposed to the stuff I am changing.

Yes I am ordering the tools, I think I am going with AmWorx tension gage, I have a flywheel lock. I also need a thin wrench 27 mm.

So what am I missing - Thanks for your assistance!
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Ian924s88  



Joined: 05 Aug 2008
Posts: 51
Location: Townsend MA

PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't have to touch the cam belt stuff in order to replace the Cam "cover" gasket.. I believe you'll have to be careful while taking the cam cover/housing off, you'll want to be ready to catch the lifters.. greese them up good to hold them in place. I thought my cam gasket was leaking, but it just turned out to be the Cam end/tower cork gasket. But if your timing belt looks like it needs to be done, not bad to do everything in one shot.
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joecitizennn  



Joined: 12 Sep 2005
Posts: 2096
Location: no mans land

PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian924s88 wrote:
. greese them up good to hold them in place. .


With engine assy lube of course, not grease
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If replacing BB seals, you need a pin wrench.
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jrrhdmust  



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
Posts: 180
Location: Middle Georgia

PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yet another question: For the cam cover I see that there is a square gasket for the whole box, an end gasket for left ring, and a few gaskets for the front.

I noticed on some sites they have a gasket for each spark plug and then one for each bolt. Do I need these also?

Thanks
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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1689
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you mean the crush seals for the access plugs on the cam housing, then yup, you'll need them. Those little plugs strip their heads easily, too. The "gaskets" for the spark plugs are also crush washers.

Be careful lifting the cam box off the engine - slip a straightedge under the lifters so they don't spill all over your garage floor.

You'll also need a very long 6mm allen wrench with a 3/8 drive on it to get to the cam bolts that are inside the housing. Once you've seated the tool in their heads, rap it with a hammer to wake them up.

The only thing that makes this job tricky is retensioning your belts. And not dropping anything in the housing on reinstall.

Have fun! I did mine a couple of weekends ago and it took me an afternoon to tear down and reassemble and then a couple of leisurely hours the next day working on the belts.
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jrrhdmust  



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
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Location: Middle Georgia

PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all of the information - you all are awesome!

One last probably dumb question but I will ask anyway. I have the car sitting on the side of my yard, and I pulled the front belt cover. Can I drive the car about 50 foot into the garage or do I need to replace the cover first?

Thanks again!
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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1689
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need to worry. As long as you haven't taken the tension off the belts.

One thing I do to speed up the process of taking things apart is to leave the distributor cap attached to the top/front aluminum housing with the plug wires on. Then all you've got to do is pull the wires off the plugs, unbolt the front housing, slip the cap off over the rotor and the cap, wires and housing come off as one unit. Makes reinstall so much easier.
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jrrhdmust  



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
Posts: 180
Location: Middle Georgia

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok started last night, taking my time, dissembling the airbox, cooling hoses ect. I found top dead center, and installed the cam lock.

I do have a question on top dead center, I could never see any of the marks on the flywheet itself, so I lined up the two marks on the cam and I put a wooden dowel in the number one and verified when the piston was at the top. Could I be 180 degrees out and on the exhaust stroke?

Trying to get off the crank pully I broke my 24mm socket. Handwriting is on the wall that is going to be a pain in the rear....
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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1689
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as cam marks line up you're fine (two crank revolutions for one cam rev), but you'll have to be able to see the crank mark when you finish up. The cam may move while you're reassembling - not much, but it can. And you can be off by one tooth and still run without bending valves.

The crank bolt can really be a pig. I got to the point where I modded my rear timing cover so I didn't have to remove it every time I wanted to do the water pump.
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jrrhdmust  



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
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Location: Middle Georgia

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info and I may be doing a mod also....
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jrrhdmust  



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
Posts: 180
Location: Middle Georgia

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big cheater bar and new socket finally got it.

Bigger problem though I tore the front of the engine down and one of the water pump bolts broke. I can get vice grips on it but cant get it out.

Any ideas? Current plan is to dremel it smoth then try drilling and tap. That is not going to be easy though.
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jrrhdmust  



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
Posts: 180
Location: Middle Georgia

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another question: What do the spark plug seals for the Cam Cover look like? I ordered them, but I am not sure if I received them or not. They are checked off the invoice but I don't know what I am looking for.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are there threads left on the bolt? How about a stud remover?
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jrrhdmust  



Joined: 19 Mar 2008
Posts: 180
Location: Middle Georgia

PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never heard of a stud extractor...where would I find one?

I am going to try liquid wrench and if that doesn't work, next I will try a torch to heat the block hoping I can get it to loosen a little.

Thanks a lot for all of the responses everything has been Spot On! I am so glad that I listened to everyone here especially about changing the front seals, rollers and waterpump. My waterpump was rusted and trashed - only a matter of time, and the crank shaft seal, and both balance shaft seals were leaking a little. Thanks again for all of the advice!
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