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This is new old stuff

 
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datatrain  



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Osoyoos, British Columbia

PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 8:20 am    Post subject: This is new old stuff Reply with quote

About a year ago I found my battery discharging every few days when the car was parked. Thaz the old stuff.

In an effort to locate the source of the problem, we checked the charging curcuit and replaced the alternator and regulator during the summer. Still old stuff.

The battery was new last year and tests excellent.

All the light switches have been checked for a sticky one and none found. Trunk light turned off , dome light off. No glove box light. Still old stuff.

Put an amp meter on the battery and then pulled the fuses one at a time and found nothing. It didn't stop the leakage.

It appeared the ignition switch maybe was faulty after searching the forum for hints. Seems it can cause a lot of odd problems.

NEW STUff... changed it yesterday.

Pulled the old IGn switch apart. No burn marks on the contacts.

Put an ampere meter in the battery curcuit with the key off and it measures approximately 900 ma of leakage

I know the clock will pulse about 5 ma normally and that should be the only draw

So where do I look now ?

Thnx


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'78 924 NA with Collector plate
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Mint '92 318i BMW
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Grenadiers  



Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Posts: 3222
Location: Nelson, WI & Prescott, AZ

PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If a 'tip' is out there, I need to know as well. My 931 decided to run thru batteries late this fall, prior, no problem. dave
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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1690
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cable to alternator or starter chafed and rubbing?
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only way you`re ever gonna get on top of this is to start at the battery and measure draw on every individual circuit, thick starter cable, two 4mm2 red wires to #H, alt loom, etc. Then isolate each sub circuit on the offending line and chase to a resolution.

Personally would bet you I could locate the problem in < hour. Seriously, if you have wasted a year to no avail it will be far more cost effective to drop the car off at an auto electrician before work.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How 'bout the ol' pull one fuse at a time and see if the amp draw changes..

Also, accessory mode is switched on by just inserting the key and without turning it, so check for an amp draw difference between key-in and key removed.
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

personally I used the 'isolate stuff' type of diagnosis when I had a weird draw. I disconnected all the interior stuff at the battery and just tested the starter/alternator circuit, there was no draw, I reconnected the interior stuff and there was a draw, turned out in my case that one of the relays was installed backwards so the solenoid was active all the time. Test the interior stuff and the rest separately, locate the draw, and then start isolating the circuit, start by pulling out all the fuses, then pull out all the relays, until the draw goes away, start putting them back in until it comes back. If you find that there is a draw with all the fuses and relays pulled, then it also narrows things down. Shouldn't take very long.

Min
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zedex  



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 26
Location: British Columbia

PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had this problem with the VW. Turns out the radio memory wire, when disconnected, solved the drain. I would not have thought the radio memory would draw that much and was right. It fed the radio power even when the switch was off. The faceplate did not light up, though.

After disconnecting the radio entirely, the drained battery issue was over. Ironically, now my Nissna truck is doing the same. I am going to reslove that tomorrow. BTW, same radio installed in truck. Odd......
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datatrain  



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Osoyoos, British Columbia

PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay guys, I pulled all the fuses from the board and all the relays and checked the draw every few items. It remained at 900ma. When everything was out it was still 900ma.

I looked up under the dash and behind the instruments is a single inline fuse holder. It has a 25A fuse. When pulled out the the draw stopped.

I'm unable to determine from the Haynes drawings where it goes or what it's for. It appears to attach to the back of the fuse panel with about an #16 red wire. The other side of the fuse has 2 what look like #18 red wires coming out of a harness with other wires. So it isn't an add on.

Is it the power line to the fuse panel ??
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Mint '92 318i BMW
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Is it the power line to the fuse panel ??


Highly unlikely, unless some DH has rewired it with drastically undersized wire. Stock has 2 of red 4.0mm2 wires from battery clamp to fuse box H#.

This isn`t a guessing game for others. Sure doesn`t sound stock. Now that you`ve progressed this far merely follow the wires and see where they go for a correct answer to your own question. Possibly a failed stereo, amp, alarm, immobilizer, power locking, bug, bomb, whatever install. Who knows.
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StienbargerR  



Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 1362
Location: Richmond, IN

PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried starting the car with that disconnected? If it runs and starts, and you cant find anything wrong with the car, I'd just leave it disconnected.

Maybe it was from an old aftermarket accessory like RC said, which was removed later on. My car has a bunch of random wires from an old aftermarket AC unit, which I removed.

Ryan
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datatrain  



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Osoyoos, British Columbia

PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay.. the extra 25A fuse is for the AC controls. Which in turn control the heater.

Wiggling the blower fan controls would turn the leak on and off. When the fuse is pulled all is as god intended. No leakage. I would have thought this would be turned on only when the key is on.

This is a factory basic car with no aftermarket stuff so that should be wired correctly.


SO... I can relax and take the winter to pull the centre console and find why.

Thanx to all for your suggestions.
_________________
'78 924 NA with Collector plate
33 year old car, with me for 21 yrs
Mint '92 318i BMW
Near mint '98 Buick LeSabre
VE7HFR


Last edited by datatrain on Fri Nov 21, 2008 10:16 am; edited 1 time in total
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datatrain  



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Osoyoos, British Columbia

PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just for the record for the next unfortunate with this problem. On page 267 of Haynes it's fuse S19. It's 25A cos it runs the 2nd fan, the AC clutch and the blower motor. Looking at the schematic I still can't see a possible path, but it's there somewhere.
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'78 924 NA with Collector plate
33 year old car, with me for 21 yrs
Mint '92 318i BMW
Near mint '98 Buick LeSabre
VE7HFR
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