924Board.org

[sparky]

Hey Guys,

I got my car back yesterday and have been pretty busy this past week or two, and have only been on the board looking at the odd posts.

Unfortunately I am not happy with the work the guy did setting the mixtures and timing, I still beleive the mixture is out and he did not bother touching it. When I asked him what the gas analyzer results were he said: ohhh 3.7. I told him it is meant to be around the 1 mark. he quickly replied it is 3.7 cold and 1 when warm.
Does this make any sense or sound correct? Personally I do not beleive it is set right. There are the odd misses at low revs. I will give the whole air and fuel system a once over soon.

When it is revved up it does this pretty smoothly but there is a high pitched metallic vibration sound coming from the engine at around 4k. What should I look for? Do these engine usually rev quickly all the way to the 6/7k mark or go to about 4k quickly and then the last bit?

First on the list is to get the interior 100% so that chapter is closed. I will probably leave the speakers to the end. The head unit is in but I need to make a neat looking spacer as it has to sit out about 1" so the screen does not hit the heater control knobs and cig lighter.

The next slight problem is with the remote start. I have not looked into the wiring of it yet, but the system knows that the car has actually started from the engine revs. It stops cranking when they touch 1k. On modern cars this is not a problem as when it starts it fires up to above 1k and then settles at the normal place. Since when this car starts it goes to 500rpm and settles at 800rpm the system does not think the car has started and continues to crank. Anyone got a way around this? I will also check the manual tonight and see if there is anything to adjust this.

I got a set of stock power windows for it and the window sliders and motors are installed. The passanger window works fine, but when the drivers window motor is activated the door metal which the motor is attached to flexes a tiny bit and it does not go up smoothly. Anyone seen this before?

If time allows, I will try and finish the interior within 2 weeks so that will only leave the last bit of fine tuning for the engine, installation of the front clip and lights along with the mirrors and the suspension. At that stage I can get the car on the road but it will need a re-spray to be complete.

Its very close now and the first job on the list is to get the split rear seats in and rear seatbelts. Although the car did not come with rear belts fitted, it is law over here to install them anyway. I got the shoulder belts so there wont be any parts poking who ever is squashed back there's butt.

Im sure there are more questions, but this should cover a bunch of them for now.

All help and advice is appreciated!

Many thanks again!
SparkY
_________________
When the checkered flag drops... The Bull$hit Stops

1976 Euro 924 (The 945) - Full 951 Brakes/Suspension

1998 Boxster with goodies
2002 3.0 Xtype 4wd sport

[924RACR]

They definitely should pull strong all the way to redline and past, when in proper tune. Sounds like your mech did indeed try to bluff his way through that. Good news is it's easy to tweak it yourself! I'd try richening it up, but another way (which I often use on the racecar) is when it's warmed up fully, first lean, then richen it, until it starts to stumble, making note of where those points are. Then set the mixture to dead nuts in the middle, plus a little, like 5 degrees, to the rich side. That should run pretty well.

Doesn't hurt to make sure the timing's set properly before this.

As for the starter - yes, I'd definitely look into the programming of the starting system itself.
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[sparky]

Thanks mate,

I will give that a shot after I check there are no leaks anywhere.

From that I recall CCW=Lean CW=Rich?

I will let you know how that goes this weekend

An update on the engine noise, it sounds like metal resonating under the valve cover. I have not pulled this off yet, but can anyone tell me what this could be.

Last thing that just started happening is the starter motor only works 1/2 the time. The other times it just click, I will inspect all the wiring to it, but ASAIK it was all in great shape.

Thanks again and keep the comments coming

SparkY
_________________
When the checkered flag drops... The Bull$hit Stops

1976 Euro 924 (The 945) - Full 951 Brakes/Suspension

1998 Boxster with goodies
2002 3.0 Xtype 4wd sport

[924RACR]

Yeah, CCW is leaner, CW is richer...

Sounds like the startre or solenoid is dying...
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[Nobbi]

Hello sparky,
i just checked my german "Prüfbescheinigung" (report) that is for emissions.
It says engine temp. has to be above 80 Deg.Celsius, engine idle between 850 and 1050 and % volume should be between 0.00 and 2.00.
So your one should be fine but 3 is out......

all readings for a 1977 N/A without catalytic converter.

Nobbi :
_________________
NA 924 - april/1977- 4-speed-audi gearbox.
500.000 km with fun.....and new toy:Porsche 944 S2 Cabriolet.Other car Daimler c-class cabby,brandnew..Plus : DEUTZ 4005 tractor Built 1967

[sparky]

Cheers for the info nobbi and also 924RACR, I will get onto doing it by ear first and see how that goes

It does sound like the solenoid is dying, but I will also check the wiring to the starter motor, maybe it is not always getting good current?

Thanks again guys, any suggestions on the other problems?

Cheers,
SparkY
_________________
When the checkered flag drops... The Bull$hit Stops

1976 Euro 924 (The 945) - Full 951 Brakes/Suspension

1998 Boxster with goodies
2002 3.0 Xtype 4wd sport

[Rasta Monsta]

Tell your starting system you have 8 cylinders.
_________________
Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[sparky]

[!tom]

[Mike924]