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Twisted metal fuel lines
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1446
Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 3:00 am    Post subject: Twisted metal fuel lines Reply with quote

The fuel lines on the 931 near the fuel filter in the engine bay driver's side are twisted. It's about a 3/8" ID line and it appears to have been twisted when someone was tightening the fuel filter up. Now the twist seems to be enough to actually limit fuel flow. A buddy of mine who works on heavy rigs suggested this problem to me after looking at the lines - he's a sharp dude. Could he be correct? It seems to make sense on the face of it.

Anyway, I want to replace the fuel filter now but the connections are siezed and the twisted metal line is all wrong. Even if I hold the nuts with a wrench I fear it's going to twist the line further (in the opposite direction) or just become a mess. I don't want to give this to a mechanic because I don't trust their competence unless it's a Porsche dealer (who have the parts and history with the cars).

I'd like to snip the metal lines at both sides of the fuel filter and attach rubber/neoprine hose and fittings to the fuel lines and reattach the filter as per my buddy's suggestion.

Naturally this will create some funky fuel flow dynamics - but will that pose a problem or have we got so much pressure with that fuel pump that the change in flow won't be a problem?

Thanks for any ideas.
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9magazine  



Joined: 28 Dec 2005
Posts: 41
Location: Lakeside/Pinetop, Arizona

PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At time point trying it isn't going to hurt anything! If it doesn't work you will be replacing the metal lines anyways to make it correct.

Brian
9magazine.com

1980 931
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'80 931 5spd - 4bolt wheel
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tuurbo, i have a couple of 931 rolling chassis that still have the metal fuel lines intact. If you end up breaking anything or want to replace your twisted lines, I can get you a replacement.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Obstructions are tricky, because idle system pressure may not be effected, but flow volume could be. . .tough to test under load!

I say swap 'em.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 3:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Due to the high pressure on that line (close to 100psi), I wouldn't be comfortable at all with rubber lines added there.
The fuel filter connections are normally extra tough to loosen. I usually have to use 2 pair of Visegrips. Be aware that Visegrips, attached too tight, will deform the connectors, but you can put that to good use by attaching, releasing, repositioning, attaching, releasing, etc. around the fitting to help break loose any corrosion that's on the threads. Try that along with an application of WD-40 or whatever.. -And use 2 Visegrips or other wrenches together.
One other thing - the adapter fittings that were factory-attached to the fuel filter are more-or-less permanently attached with epoxy or some type of extra tough threadlocker, so don't even try to loosen the adapters from the filters while on the car. Detach between the adapters and the line-attached fittings (<-usually green-colored).
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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1446
Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 4:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right so if I go the rubber/neoprine route I'll probably be blowing gas all over anyway. Smoothie when you mention the epoxied filter connectors it's all making sense now - someone working there has maybe tried to move that piece at the filter.

The twisted lines...I was thinking too from boating that the way they're twisted right now I'm probably looking at something at least like cavitation in the lines - yeah they should be replaced.

Yes Ideola I'd be interested in those lines when things go wrong. Thanks very much. How can this be done - I'm sometimes out Detroit way... Are they the very long ones stretching around back of the engine bay to the fuel distributor?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 4:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let me know exactly which parts you need. I'm planning to start stripping the one chassis within the next month. Once I get the lines off of the car we'll have to figure out how to get it to you. Shipping could definitely be a challenge...
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey tuurbo, I'm going to be working on my two 931 rolling chassis today. Do you still want those fuel lines?
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
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Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes absolutely! Thanks! Any chance on a WUR for a 1980 too?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tuurbo wrote:
Yes absolutely! Thanks! Any chance on a WUR for a 1980 too?
I didn't work on them today cuz I didn't hear back from you, so I focused on other stuff. But I can prob'ly get to 'em early next week if you can let me know exactly which ones you want. A photo of your engine bay showing the twisted lines would be helpful so I know which one(s) to work on.

As for the WUR, I have a few for the series I, but none that I have tested, and I would recommend having them rebuilt in any event. I'd have to check my stash to see what's there, but I'm sure I have at least 3 maybe 4 sitting around. Also, we'll need to figure out shipping especially for the lines, unless you're going to be in Detroit sometime in the near future. I don't get out to NJ much these days.
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
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Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I'm close enough to Detroit when I'm traveling with my wife. We could easily be in that area in a week or ten days I think.

I'll take the fuel line picture tomorrow. I looked at it again today, man, is it ever bad. You'll see tomorrow but it's the line from the filter back about 8" (from memory) then along behind the heater fan input over to the passenger side and down to the CIS. It's twisted right at the filter - you'll see.

When I look at the twisting I just think, man, whoever working on this did not treat it like it was their own car.

Yeah I can clean up whatever WUR you have for the Series 1. I'd clean the filter thing and clean the connections but I'd probably try it out before rebuilding. Unless it's easy.

When they rebuild the WUR, how do they get a bimetallic spring? They probably don't have those at Home Depot I'm guessing.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, so it sounds like the pieces you need are the ones that are completely contained in the engine bay. NP. I'll get to work on it this week and dig out a WUR. Re: the WUR, you will have to consider it good only as a core. Most guys these days have been using Special-T to have them rebuilt.
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
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Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow ok this isn't gonna be easy - I have to make sure that mechanic didn't replace my WUR with another WUR I gave him to consider as a spare. I guess I'll be over there on Monday making inquiries. They need the exact one and I'm unsure whether mine was an early or late 1980 924T.

I figured those WURs were gonna be expensive.
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
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Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey ok the shots below are of the line from the filter back toward the driver.



That's gotta be hurting the flow yes? I look at it and it just slays me that happened. Looks like he was trying to get it off, not on, when he twisted it (leftie loosie righty tighty).
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, that's pretty ugly. Should be no problem to get you a good set of replacements from one of my donor cars.

Regarding the WUR, I'm not aware of the different part numbers for the 1980. Do you know which part number you need??? What could possibly have changed with respect to the WUR in mid-year? In any event, I've got a few extras, I'll get the check the part numbers.

My comment re: the WUR being a core was simply a disclaimer that I cannot / will not warranty it for proper functioning. As such, it may work just fine they were working when removed), but if I sell you one, you should consider it as an item that needs to be rebuilt. I think Special-T offers core exchange, so the price for rebuilt might be less than the online price. I did a cursory search on their site for such info, but didn't come across it. Might be worth a phone call.

Stay tuned.
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