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How long does it take to install these parts?

 
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Which car to buy?  



Joined: 24 Mar 2003
Posts: 163

PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 12:22 pm    Post subject: How long does it take to install these parts? Reply with quote

In a 924 N/A 5 speed

Clutch

Struts/ shocks [all 4]

Cv boots

rear pads and front pads

General tune-up with plugs, wires spark plugs, distributor cap, oil change, coolant flush.

I'm just getting a ball park # for the work I have to get done.

This would be at a garage.

The head of the 924 isn't aluminum is it?
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A garage will charge you 2 or 3 times the repaired value of the car for the list above. If you can not do the repairs yourself, walk away.

You can price the parts here:

https://www.autohausaz.com

The head is aluminum.
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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Which car to buy?  



Joined: 24 Mar 2003
Posts: 163

PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
A garage will charge you 2 or 3 times the repaired value of the car for the list above. If you can not do the repairs yourself, walk away.

You can price the parts here:

https://www.autohausaz.com

The head is aluminum.


Sorry Paul, I guess we misunderstood each other. I'm looking for a time frame to install these parts, assuming nothing gets broken or nothing is seized on. The parts I already have, I just want to know what's a fair time frame.

Thanks for the link, I found a few nice prices.
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 4459
Location: Rialto, CA

PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like Paul says you are going to pay considerably more for this work to be done than the car will be worth when you are done.

I would guess that you are looking at 32-40 labor hours that will be billed anywhere between $45-$125 an hour. That's to start, not counting any additional problems and parts that should be serviced while you are in there, and those items are going to crop up and add up.

Figure about 8-10 hours for the clutch. Make sure that you get all of the bearings and other parts that are replaced with the clutch (pilot bearing, throwout arm bearings), and not just the three basic clutch parts.

Figure about 8 hours for the shocks and struts. The upper strut mounts, and strut shaft boots should be replaced while you are replacing the struts, don;t forget to get these parts so the repair will not be delayed.

Figure 2-3 hours to service the cv axles. But you should also have the rear wheel bearings serviced while you are in there. No way to prepare here, but each rear wheel bearing is $40-$60, and the seals will be $3-$5 each. Cv joints are $70-$90 each and the boots are $5 each.

Replacing brake pads takes about one hour per axle, but you will probably get charged for two. The front wheel bearings should be replaced and adjusted while you are in there. The calipers should be resealed (kits are $20 per caliper).

You will get charged another 2-4 hours for the tuneup. That's spark plug replacement, ignition wire set replacement, and set the idle speed, mixture, and ignition timing.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not knowing the car you own - the NA has rear drums and the turbo has disc all around. Make sure you have the right parts.
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Joined: 24 Mar 2003
Posts: 163

PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ozzie wrote:
Not knowing the car you own - the NA has rear drums and the turbo has disc all around. Make sure you have the right parts.


Yeah it's a regular 924.
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Joined: 24 Mar 2003
Posts: 163

PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gohim wrote:
Like Paul says you are going to pay considerably more for this work to be done than the car will be worth when you are done.

I would guess that you are looking at 32-40 labor hours that will be billed anywhere between $45-$125 an hour. That's to start, not counting any additional problems and parts that should be serviced while you are in there, and those items are going to crop up and add up.

Figure about 8-10 hours for the clutch. Make sure that you get all of the bearings and other parts that are replaced with the clutch (pilot bearing, throwout arm bearings), and not just the three basic clutch parts.

Figure about 8 hours for the shocks and struts. The upper strut mounts, and strut shaft boots should be replaced while you are replacing the struts, don;t forget to get these parts so the repair will not be delayed.

Figure 2-3 hours to service the cv axles. But you should also have the rear wheel bearings serviced while you are in there. No way to prepare here, but each rear wheel bearing is $40-$60, and the seals will be $3-$5 each. Cv joints are $70-$90 each and the boots are $5 each.

Replacing brake pads takes about one hour per axle, but you will probably get charged for two. The front wheel bearings should be replaced and adjusted while you are in there. The calipers should be resealed (kits are $20 per caliper).

You will get charged another 2-4 hours for the tuneup. That's spark plug replacement, ignition wire set replacement, and set the idle speed, mixture, and ignition timing.


Thanks for the time frame. I thought the clutch was around 9 hours.

What do you mean when you say the front wheel bearings should be adjusted? Also the calipers "resealing" you mean the rubber seals should be replaced?

And if I cared about spending too much money on the car, I wouldn't have bought it.

Thanks again for the comments and help. This is a great web forum.
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 4459
Location: Rialto, CA

PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have that much money to spend on one of these cars, you should just go out and buy one that is in better condition, and sell the one you have.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, now I understand that you have found a car you like and want to catch up on deferred maintenance.

Are you sure we can't help you try to do some of these repairs yourself?
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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Joined: 24 Mar 2003
Posts: 163

PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
Ok, now I understand that you have found a car you like and want to catch up on deferred maintenance.

Are you sure we can't help you try to do some of these repairs yourself?


What would you have me do? I have tools and am able bodied, just lacking in the knowledge.

The easiest thing on the list would be the brake pads. I think there are springs in there that have to be fitted back in and can be tricky, other than that just a direct swap of parts right?

Also I have a set of ramps but I would need a good jack and bottle stands to do the shocks, clutch etc, correct?

About the head being aluminum I wouldn't want to put the spark plugs in myself as I heard that stripping them {if they don't go in straight} is a nightmare.

If you guys think I can do some of this myself, I could try, I have a Haynes manual and I've read most of it to gain an understanding of the car.
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutch is a nightmare... I would leave that for the pros for now.

Pads are straight forward. Don't worry about the spark plugs, thread them by hand, they should run in relatively easily, I use a spark plug socket and a shrot extension only (No ratchet) you can get them down then give them a final "tweak" with a ratchet, not much of one. If you aren't sure then back it out and try again.

Not done the front struts, but the rears are easy enough, only 4 bolts. You need to lift the car so it's rear wheels are off the deck (Don't forget to chock the fronts!) whip the bolts out and the shock will come out, you can compress them by hand and pull them out.

Coolant flush is a matter of getting the rad drain plug out (Left hand side at the bottom) and then replace it, it s in the haynes manual.

Plug wires and dizzy cap is a straight swap.

Any questions post them up!

Where are you based? Maybe there is a local who can help out?
_________________
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress...
1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
1978 Homo-Sapiens - Tired spec
1953 Landrover S1 - Pensioner Spec
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Which car to buy?  



Joined: 24 Mar 2003
Posts: 163

PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich H wrote:
Clutch is a nightmare... I would leave that for the pros for now.

Pads are straight forward. Don't worry about the spark plugs, thread them by hand, they should run in relatively easily, I use a spark plug socket and a shrot extension only (No ratchet) you can get them down then give them a final "tweak" with a ratchet, not much of one. If you aren't sure then back it out and try again.

Not done the front struts, but the rears are easy enough, only 4 bolts. You need to lift the car so it's rear wheels are off the deck (Don't forget to chock the fronts!) whip the bolts out and the shock will come out, you can compress them by hand and pull them out.

Coolant flush is a matter of getting the rad drain plug out (Left hand side at the bottom) and then replace it, it s in the haynes manual.

Plug wires and dizzy cap is a straight swap.

Any questions post them up!

Where are you based? Maybe there is a local who can help out?


Sounds like a 45 minute list with the way you describe it. I'm in Toronto and I do have a couple of friends who could help out.

I'll post questions when I get started thanks to all the folks who posted replies.
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An hour at the most...

The best thing about these cars is they are over engineered, when I had to change the torque tube, the only studs I broke were a couple of exhaust manifold studs that had been apart a few weeks before and I had put new nuts on Everything else came apart. Even the gearbox mount bolts were still covered in the original grease!

Go slow, take your time, if your unsure just ask, someone will help.

Best of Luck
Rich
_________________
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress...
1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
1978 Homo-Sapiens - Tired spec
1953 Landrover S1 - Pensioner Spec
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