924Board.org

[Cone_Eater]

Hey guys. I am a new owner of a Porsche. The car is great and I have had her for about 3 weeks. The only problem I’ve had has came up in the last few days. When I put the car in 1st it seems to grind a little. This only happens when the car is stopped and I begin moving again. I thought it was the clutch not fully disengaging so I adjusted the cable and that helped, but it still does this horrid noise just not as nearly as bad. It only happens when I began to let the clutch out. Any ideas? Also it started doing a little squeak at idle. Again any ideas and things I can do to help determine the exact problem.
Thanks a bunch,
Sam
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1988 924S: Koni fully adjustables, Short shift kit, head work, exhaust, K&N, Jacobs ignition, Larger Injectors, Performance Chip, 928 wheels with cooper Zeon tires, Momo interior, Etc.....
If its fast enough to go... its fast enough to blow.

[gohim]

I'd like to know where you found a clutch cable adjustment on your 88 924S, since the 924S has a hydraulic clutch. The 924S has no clutch cable, and no clutch adjustment.

[dgz924s]

Yes you can adjust it. Down behind the pedal is a adjustment screw, it will adjust the pedal travel and release. Very small movement of this screw will change the release a huge amount so if you do this move that brass screw a MM at a time!....CW shortens the throw CCW lengthens it or visa versa....cannot recall which....Now as to no cable yes but there is a bit of adjustment there to perhaps help, just enough to engage/disengage at the correct place. This screw is located behind the pedal arm near the pedal spring it is brass and very fine threads....do not adjust the spring.
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Dal Glassinger

[924guy]

try bleeding the clutch at the slave cylinder, if theres air in the lines, that may be the root of your issue. you also may want to check the material thickness of the clutch disk, it may be on its way out.
as for squeeking, could be a variety of things. has there been a front engine t-belt service in recent history? if not, or you dont know, front engine service is a must. a snapped belt will cost you the top end of the engine at the very least.
pick up a haynes and a factory manual if you dont have them, and use the "search " feature here liberally.
welcome to the group, and congrats. I think youll find that if you take the time and effort to ensure proper maintenance, the 924s will be an awesome car.
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Eric
78 924
82 931 SE "smokey"
99' VehiCross
Y2K Honda Insight
http://www.cardomain.com/id/924Guy
Performance by Pasha

[Hoboceratops]

[Cone_Eater]

The squeak seams to be coming out of the clutch area but I am not certain. The car has already had extensive head and timing work, so that particular area I am pretty sure is fine. I was lucky enough to have a previous owner that is a document keeper. He had over $5000 worth in documents of upgrades and maintenance. I was told by the owner I needed to bleed the slave cylinder after about 500 miles and I have driven about 700 since. I attempted to bleed the slave cylinder, but I don't think I did it right. I just loosened the slave cylinder valve and let some of the fluid run out. I don't think it worked very well. Do I need to pressurize the system to get all the air out or what? Should I use clutch fluid or brake fluid? I think to use clutch fluid I would have to drain the entire system but I am not certain.
Thanks Sam

[Rasta Monsta]

Sam,

I bought a pressure bleeder like THIS ONE. It will take all the pain out of bleeding your clutch, and will also make it easy to replace your brake fluid, which should be done every two years, but most people don't do.

rasta

P.S. No offense, but opening the valve and letting fluid run out is a very random amd potentially dangerous idea. . .you are clearly not using a workshop manual, which is a HUGE mistake for a novice mechanic working on a Porsche. Buy one! Buy one NOW!
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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[88Silver924S]

Unless a previous owner did something wierd the clutch receives it's hydralic fluid from the brake fluid resevoir. My '88 924s takes common "DOT 3" brake fluid. I do a complete brake fluid replacement every 2-4 years; some say every year. There is a short piece of hose between the brake fluid resevoir and the clutch master cylinder; it should be replaced every 5-10 years (it is a low pressure line & cheap) but make sure to use hose that is compatible with brake fluid; not all common automotive hose is unreactive to brake fluid, I believe! If the hose is wrong and reacts with the fluid you may find a black "dust" of hose in the fluid. It is normal for the fluid to darken a little as it ages, I have been told.
At some point the master cylinder may have to be replaced (I haven't seen a rebuild kit) and the slave either rebuilt or replaced; neither job is all that difficult or expensive. One symptom may be that they suck air into the system, I think. I have had a shop replace brake fluid once but since the clutch slave is a devil to get to to bleed I question whether they bled the clutch slave. If you take it to a shop to flush the DOT 3 fluid be sure to specify up front that they need to bleed the clutch and replace that short hose if it is original/old. Good luck

[gohim]

Leaking fluid, or an improper fluid bleed after servicing of the brake system or the master or slave clutch cylinders are the most likely reason for grinding the clutch.

Since the P.O. already told you that the clutch needs to bled most likely this is the reason that the gears grind.

Porsche has an adjustment screw built onto the floor boards of many of it's cars, BUT that adjustment is meant more as a pedalstop or overtravel stop adjustment, than a working travel adjustment. The clutch pedal stop should not require adjustments on a hydraulic clutch Porsche. If the clutch starts grinding because the clutch travel is inadaquate, the problem is air in the fluid lines, or a leaking hose or clutch cylinder/s. Changing the pedal travel will not fix the problem, it will only mask the symptom.

[ronined]

I have used a Gunson's EEZI-Bleed for bleeding brakes and clutches on my other cars. It utilizes pressurized air (~12 PSI) to force fluid through the system. Mine came with a cap that fits the Porsche M/C reservoir.

Ed
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'87 924S

[Smoothie]

Yah the hydraulic clutch is actually self-adjusting and the adjustment at the pedal is only to allow the master cylinders' piston to move to its' full rearward position - from there there should be just a tiny clearance (≈0.5mm) between it and the pedals' actuating rod (which translates to ≈3mm down at the foot end of the pedal) - with that set, the clutch automatically adjusts itself.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

[Cone_Eater]

I have both manuals: 924 and 944
I used the explaination in the 944 manual to bleed the slave cylinder. I don't think I got all the air out though.
Why does the air cause the gears to grind?
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1988 924S: Koni fully adjustables, Short shift kit, head work, exhaust, K&N, Jacobs ignition, Larger Injectors, Performance Chip, 928 wheels with cooper Zeon tires, Momo interior, Etc.....
If its fast enough to go... its fast enough to blow.

[dgz924s]

Gears will grind if the clutch is not fully engaged. Lack of pressure in the fluid and the clutch will act is if you partially pushed the pedal in and shifted. That said it could be the syncros. For right now you need to get the air out and I do agree the Motive system works well!
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Dal Glassinger

[Cone_Eater]

I just finished bleeding again and made sure I got ALL the air out. No sounds!!!!! This was an easy fix. I inspected all the lines and they seemed to be in great shape. I was very worried that I would have to drop a grand in the clutch or tranny.
Thanks for all the help.
Sam