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Rich H · Last edited by Rich H on Wed Jul 18, 2007 6:42 am; edited 1 time in total

Hello,

I'm in need of a bit of help! I have a non-dog leg 5 speed box and I need to change the clutch release bearing but there is no way of moving the box backwards enough to disengage the drive shaft! I can get about 1/2" movement backwards before it hits the spare wheel well not the 85mm it talks about in the service manual!

I don't really want to chop a hole in the spare wheel well if I can avoid it and I can't undo the driveshafts form the box (The first bolt I tried rounded off instantly

)

I suppose I could chop a hole in it but I'm reluctant to

Help!
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1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress...
1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
1978 Homo-Sapiens - Tired spec
1953 Landrover S1 - Pensioner Spec

Lizard · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:50 am Post subject:

with the 5 speed you really do need to undo the CVs and drop the tranny for this job, you can only really get away with leaving the tranny in there on the snailshell units.
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3 928s,

gohim · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA

Did you use the correct 12-point bit when you tried to remove the cv axle bolts?

I am betting that you used a hex-bit (6-sided). BIG MISTAKE.

The cv axle bolts will come out intact if you follow the correct procedure.

First, clean the bolt heads out, along with removing any debris or oil-based gunk from the area around the bolts. Next, spray a penatrating lubricant, and keep them wet over night. The next day, using the correct bit, insert the bit, making sure that it fits all the way to the bottom of the holes, and tap generously with a mallet.

Now, giving a slight turn to tighten, and then reverse and remove the cv bolt.

Cv bolts were only supposed to be tightened to about 17ftlbs if I remember correctly. Unfortunately, time, and ham-fisted wannabee mechanics tighten the bolts up further than spec.

Smoothie · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:12 am Post subject:

Strippped CV-halfshaft bolts can be grabbed on their outsides and loosened with ViseGrip pliers.
The correct tool is an 8mm "Triple Square" bit or socket tool.

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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

Lizard · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 12:31 pm Post subject:

endwrench · Joined: 07 Dec 2002 Posts: 1631 Location: Victor, Montana

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=17699
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'79 924NA. Rebuilt 9.5:1, MSDS header, Mega Squirt Injection, MJLJ-EDIS Ignition, 1.6L Whipple Charger and Intercooler, 10lbs Boost, 944 Trans, Custom HD Clutch.
"simsport" said....superchargers are better than turbos its official!....

Rich H · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 4:43 pm Post subject:

Yep, 6 sided hex, it was a good fit so I had a go, instant ly stripped

I'm going to chop the spare wheel well then rivet it back in after I reckon. That will give me more than enough room with the drive shafts in place I'm hoping.... Thats if I can get the bell housing bolts out fomr the top :shock:

Cheers gents.

Rich
_________________
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress...
1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
1978 Homo-Sapiens - Tired spec
1953 Landrover S1 - Pensioner Spec

Ozzie · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:30 pm Post subject:

The PO must have done some repairs to mine. Half were hex and half were tri-sqaure. I replaced the lot with hex and tightened them up as tight as possible.
Some stripped anyway when I tried to remove them but after using a FBH and 1/4 hex instead of 6mm they came off. (or was that 5/16 instead of 8mm?)
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Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance

Rasta Monsta · Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW

Y'know Rich, those CV joints do require servicing, so they will have to come off one of these days. . .
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Toofah King Bad

WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

Slam · Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:14 am Post subject:

??? Haynes says 30ft/lbs for those bolts IIRC.
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'88 944 Auto - may or may not resurrect

Smoothie · Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 5:45 am Post subject:

The terminology is confusing. The factory manual has it as -
"Axle shaft to joint flange", bolt, M8x1.25, 12.9, 42Nm(30FtLb) for the G31/02 gearbox, then -
"Propeller shaft to joint flange", bolt, M8, 12.9, 42Nm(30FtLb) for the 016G box.
The Tech Specs booklet has it as -
"Joint shaft", M8, 42Nm(31FtLb) for the 4-speed 088 and 5-speed 016_'s. -And -
"Joint shaft to joint flange", M8x1.25, 42Nm(31FtLb) for the G31/01-03's.
(For the automatic transmission, the Tech Specs booklet refers to the equivalent fastening as -
"Planetary gear to axle drive", M8x1.25, 29Nm(21FtLb) - and the factory manual calls it -
"Transmission to final drive", Nut, M8x1.25, 12.9, 29Nm(22FtLb).

Then there's also "Flanged shaft to diff. gear" M8 at 25Nm(18FtLb), but that's a single bolt through the center holding the flange to the gearbox for automatic, 088, and 016_Audi gearboxes. -And the Haynes has this as "Axle shaft flange center bolt" at 18FtLb for 4-speed and auto - then "Joint flange-to-differential" at 34-36FtLb for the 016Z snailshell (016Z and G31/01-03 snailshells use an M10 size bolt there).

-So long story short - there are at least 4 different terms used to describe what most of us would call "CV bolts" plus a few more similar-sounding terms that describe something else..
Anyway, the correct torque for 924 manual gearbox CV bolts is 30FtLb and for the automatic, whether they're nuts or bolts, it's 21-22FtLb.
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

Rich H · Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 6:00 am Post subject:

Well I have got most of it to bits, no real problems, chopped (Actually chiseled...) a big hole in the wheel well and slid (!) the box back.

The news is not good, not good at all.

The Clutch release bearing is fine (Sadly) the clutch is tired but ok, the problem is the pilot bearing has gone. Totally. Just a sliver of metal left and nothing else. The end of the driveshaft is shaped like this: )( and the fly is probably damaged. I'll need to drop the box to get a proper look.

I'm unsure as to what to do now, if I get a new pilot bearing I don't think it will last long, but a new propshaft, torque tube and so on will pretty much write off the car and I'm not sure I can be bothered with the labour.

Is it possible to replace the propshaft only?

I'm pretty down at the moment, so any suggestions welcome

_________________
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress...
1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
1978 Homo-Sapiens - Tired spec
1953 Landrover S1 - Pensioner Spec

Rich H · Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 6:48 am Post subject:

Can anyone advise about what parts I need to replace the needle bearing? the parts catalog suggests there is a sleeve with bearing and the needle bearing alone.

Anyone know what I will need? I'm pretty sure the bearing housing will be damaged.
_________________
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress...
1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
1978 Homo-Sapiens - Tired spec
1953 Landrover S1 - Pensioner Spec

Smoothie · Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:20 am Post subject:

There were at least 2 versions of the 924NA needle bearing (aka- "pilot bearing") and they're interchangeable, so you can use whichever you can find + whatever else you might find in the same size. It mounts in the end of the crankshaft, so we'll hope extra hard that only the bearing and sleeve were damaged.
There's a bit more on it here - http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=13966&start=4
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

Rich H · Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 10:07 pm Post subject:

Cheers Smoothie. Will investigate
_________________
1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - Work in progress...
1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
1978 Homo-Sapiens - Tired spec
1953 Landrover S1 - Pensioner Spec