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stevencrichton · Joined: 25 Jul 2006 Posts: 40 Location: Scotland

Hi Guys,

Just wondering if to replace the strut top with the encapsulated bearing I require to remove the strut and compress the springs?

If not I will be a very happy bunny

Steven
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I had a diesel now own a porsche and my little pocket is crying in pain

PORSCHEV · Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:39 pm Post subject:

You don't need a spring compressor...but you do have to remove the struts from the car to do the job.
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1976 924
5 lug conversion, 17'C2 wheels,custom body work,327 vette engine.

1978-#53 "D" track racer.

924RACR · Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 9:43 pm Post subject:

I wouldn't quite agree with that - you can remove the top nut and jack the car off the springs/struts - but it requires access, usually, to an air gun (impact wrench)...
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

Tiny · Joined: 10 Apr 2006 Posts: 502 Location: London, UK

not a big job, but just one to be careful with as you dont want a spring to go boing out of the wheel arch into your knackers....
i used compressors personally, but can understand the logic of using the jack to take the strain.

also, make sure you have a socket or spanner/wrench which fits the top nut, as it can be a bit tight for space there.
tiny
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*****1981 - 924 - Auto - London, UK******

stevencrichton · Joined: 25 Jul 2006 Posts: 40 Location: Scotland

Remove wheel.

Jack car as high as I possibly can.

Remove top bolt

Swap bearing set

Re-Tighten

Lower suspension

Does this sound right.
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I had a diesel now own a porsche and my little pocket is crying in pain

924RACR · Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 1:04 am Post subject:

Nope.

Put front of car on jackstands.

Remove tire/rim.

Unbolt front swaybar endlink from front a-arm.

Place jack under a-arm and take up all slack

Remove top nut from strut rod.

Lower jack with a-arm. Strut and spring fall off to the side.

Remove and replace strut mount.

Prop spring and strut back into line, and jack up the a-arm, with a helper lining up the spring into the spring seat, then lining up the strut rod into the upper mount. Also don't forget to line up the swaybar endlink into its hole on the a-arm. Continue jacking until the nut can be installed, and tighten.

Reverse the remaining steps, and switch sides.

Can take as little as 30 min per side, if you know what you're doing.
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

!tom · Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 5:41 am Post subject:

Not to hijack this thread or anything, but I need to do this too, as well as replace the struts.

My understanding is that the struts are rebuildable, in that you can just get an insert, instead of the entire strut assembly.

What is the list of parts I would need to do this? One strut has leaked it's juice out, and now groans when it moves until it is warmed up. The other side looks like there's a gap between the plate that bolts to the top of the strut and the top of the mount, when you look at it from under the hood. This tells me the upper strut mount, which has a bearing in it to help make steering easier is toast, as well as the leaking strut.

Is there anything else? I seem to recall discussions about superceeded parts, and confusion over what exactly is needed in previous discussions. Every FLAPS I've gone to wants to run and hide when the word "Porsche" is mentioned when they ask what kind of car, so I need a specific list of parts before I can get anything.

Thanks!
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78 924 NA
5-lug

Rasta Monsta · Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW

Smoothie · Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:30 am Post subject:

I listed the parts I replaced when I re-did my strut bearings in here-
http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=9397
The main original bearing part ("strut mount support") was superceeded to an improved "944." part number.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

924RACR · Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 9:55 pm Post subject:

Chrenan · Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 3903 Location: Canada

isuras2 · Joined: 17 Jun 2005 Posts: 458 Location: Phoenix, AZ

Are there any fitting issues with the strut inserts? I ask because I have monroe strut inserts and am not sure if they fit, but they were purchased for the car. A co-worker once had to use shims to get the strut inserts to fit correctly, but that wasn't on a Porsche, but a vw.
_________________
Rob
'80 931 (sold)
'80 924 NA (sold)
Former Omaha Crew

PORSCHEV · Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 9:14 pm Post subject:

Just to let you know Vaughn...your method works perfectly!

I stole springs from my V8 porsche to put in my race 924 and swapped 4 springs in less then an hour. It helps having good air tools though.
_________________
1976 924
5 lug conversion, 17'C2 wheels,custom body work,327 vette engine.

1978-#53 "D" track racer.

stevencrichton · Joined: 25 Jul 2006 Posts: 40 Location: Scotland

Just to update this thread. I got the job done very quickly in the end. So I'll run you guys through it.

Tools Needed: Jack. Allen Key to fit top mount. Recessed 22mm Spanner. 13mm Socket. Jack and axle stands. Spring Compressors.

Parts needed: Strut Top Mount Bearing Sets. New Top seal Bushes (not essential)

How To in Order:

-Loosen wheel nuts.
-Jack front end up and place on two axle stands at front crossmember. Not on lower arms.
-Remove wheels and Take front brake Flexi out of clips.
-Goto top end and with lower arm at full extension use recessed spanner and allan key on long bars to break the threadlock (allan key with jack arm inserted works like a charm)
-Place Jack under lower arm.
-Use spring compressors to get spring to a compressed point to move on strut assembley
-Goto top remove 4 13mm nuts to hold strut to body. Then remove the large nut with the 22mm recessed spanner and allan key.
-Drop jack under lower arm and swing strut in the arch towards the passenger compartment.
-Grab top plate.
-Pop out old bearing assembly (dunt on ground with an extension bar)
-Assess condition and then be very scared at the speed you drove when they were that bad

-Press new assemblies in.
-Place plate back to top of strut and ensure spring plate is aligned with the coils
-swing strut vertically and pull damper end up to start the tread on the allen bolt.
- Jack assembly up. Then re-tighten 13mm holding nuts to top plate.
- Tighten Allen and 22mm bolt to as tight as required. Normally about 12mm of shown thread through top of assembly.
-Dump some Locktite on there to stop the nut shifting.
-release spring comressors (fear is advisable springs are nasty bastards)
-re-attach flexi into clip
-remove jack
-Put wheel back on
-Drop car down.

-Do other side as before.

Final thing here is to have a nice drink afterwards and possibly a cigarette if you are of the smoking persuasion. To enjoy the 10mins each side will take. After this Drive the car and make sure everything settles nicely, you'll notice about 60mph and above the car feels very solid, plus the steering is lighter. This last point also make you more likely to know what it is like driving a porsche off a dealers forecourt. (something I will do one day)

Hope this is of help to everyone. As I said in the tools the spring compressors and 22mm recessed spanner make all the difference for speed on this task.

Thanks for all the help.
Steve
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I had a diesel now own a porsche and my little pocket is crying in pain

John Brown · Joined: 07 Nov 2002 Posts: 903 Location: Leesburg VA

Good show.

Couple of additional points:

If replacing the shock insert use the pipe wrench to remove the gland nut (shock retaining nut) BEFORE dropping the strut down and out of the upper mount. If the gland nut has been on for years and years and years it can be quite sticky. With the suspension at full droop (anti-sway disconnected) there is room to get at it around the spring. Once the nut is loose then continue as described. For particularly sticky and air chisel is the last resort. Actually, since new shocks should come with new nuts; chisel away.

Not all shock struts have an allen (internal hex) in the end. Some have a protruding 'flat' which will take a standard wrench. Some have nothing; in which case you almost HAVE to use an impact to loosen (and tighten). If you want to get fancy there is a tool made just for the allen style.

New replacement shocks should come with the correct nut and spacer if needed. Can't vouch for Monroe. (Monroe is NOT on my A list right now. MY Escalade shocks were COMPLETELY worn out with 40,000 miles! Not weak. Done. Kaput. Shot. Fini')
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John
80 931 - #931 44Cup
99 Escalade - tows track cars
gone but not forgotten: original 924.org car - 82