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Newbie Alignment Question

 
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cdubya  



Joined: 20 Aug 2006
Posts: 21
Location: Ames, Iowa

PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:13 am    Post subject: Newbie Alignment Question Reply with quote

So, I am planning on replacing the the front shocks in the near future and I would also like to lower the rear via the eccentric bolt. My question is this, would the alignment that is required for the replacement of the struts be the same kind alignment needed after the rear is lowered? Or, as I suspect, the rear end would need some kind of alignment in addition to the front.

Also, if the latter is true, would a simple hole-in-the-wall shop be able to set the alignment of the rear, or would I need to go to an alignment specialist? Meaning that it is more difficult to set the alignment in the rear than the front.

Thanks fellas,

Colin
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9108
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 3:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aligning the fronts is not a big deal; in fact it's practically something that can be done at home (with the right tools, of course). Certainly the suspension style is common enough (strut) that any half-competent alignment shop can handle it.

The rear is not. While yes, I do my own - it takes a lot of practice and patience. It requires one special tool, the P221 tool to adjust toe, as well as a number of large wrenches (27mm for the camber eccentric bolt, 36mm and 24mm for the ride height). It's a PITA in that you move toe and camber at the same time. Most alignment shops, even if contracted to do a 4-wheel alignment, will not in fact adjust the rear or won't do it well.

Unfortunately, the rear alignment is often off on these cars, between having been on the road and abused for 20-25 years, and not being properly aligned probably in the last 10...

If you do get it done - insist on a printout showing before and after settings, including the specs.

I can't recommend going to a Porsche dealer - too many won't give you the service you're looking for, or will just farm it out anyway. Better to ask on rennlist for 944 owners in your area, see who they'd recommend.

I recommend replacing the (front) struts, drive the car a little (maybe a week or two) to let the struts settle, then adjust the rear and have a 4-wheel alignment done all at once.

Ironically, I've just brought my car in to work to align and corner balance it (prep for next race weekend)... would love to take video, but photography is rather not allowed in the office...
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cdubya  



Joined: 20 Aug 2006
Posts: 21
Location: Ames, Iowa

PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the great info.
One more question, though, do you think I could get away with driving the car about 1000 miles without having a front alignment after changing the struts, or would I be doing damage to the tires and such? I go to school in a pretty desolate place and would like to have the rear lowered and all wheels aligned when a go home in a few weeks.
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless your 'rough' alignment is pretty good, 1000 miles willl eat a set of fronts.

If you take careful measurements of the toe settings before you rip your old struts out (assumming your current alignment is right) and reproduce them as accurately as you can when the new ones go in, you should be OK until you can get the car done properly. Same for the camber, but it's not as critical. I don't know about the castor adjustment, though...

Edit: the above assumes you're doing the work yourself. If you give the job to a mechanic you can forget preserving any of your old settings...
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I swapped my strut inserts without disturbing any of the alignment adjustments. It was quite easy. . .30-45 minutes per side.
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How did you manage that, Shaggy?

You're probably OK with the the toe setting, but you have to remove the strut to get the insert out, which means you need to undo the bottom fixings where the camber adjustment is. Also the position of the top bearing affects camber and castor.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It can be done without touching the bottom of the strut.
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isuras2  



Joined: 17 Jun 2005
Posts: 458
Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do tell, Paul and Rasta, as I will soon need to change the strut inserts.
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, ^ +1
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
It can be done without touching the bottom of the strut.


I changed the top strut tower mount without touching the bottom of the strut, so I can agree with this as well. Just use a spring compressor.

Min
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple, pull the entire strut/spindle assembly. Its a heavier assembly to deal with but the alignment should stay the same. FWD folks do this all the time.
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