924Board.org

924aussie · Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 5:35 pm Post subject: Ignition Lock Removal/Replacement

http://www.924.org/techsection/12body.htm
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Pull the horn pad off (grasp cover and pull really hard!).
Use a 24mm socket with extension to remove the steering wheel nut.
Remove the steering wheel.
Remove the 4 flathead screws holding the turn-signal/wiper switch in place.
Remove the turn-signal/wiper switch assembly

I got this far , but something seems to be holding it back , I can see wires but they dont look like they are stretching. Its a 1980 RHD 924
Any ideas how to Remove the turn-signal/wiper switch assembly

Alan

Use a 6mm allen wrench to remove the bolt holding the ignition lock assembly to the steering column.
Gently pry open the clamp which the bolt holds tight with a flat screwdriver, just enough so that the lock assembly can rotate slightly around the column.
Using the screwdriver, pry off the plastic cylindrical sleeve on the end of the steering column. It may be necessary to split this sleeve in order to remove it.
Grasp the plastic cover and housing assembly and pull straight off
Remove phillips screw holding ignition switch (electrical part) into the lock assembly.
_________________
green 924 .. 1980 rego 924PSH
1998 Mopar Neon ... sick
2003 Challenger / Montery 4WD
1995 Hyundai Scoupe ... sold
1998 Nissan Silvia ... sons back from OS he has taken it
BIG BLOODY MOTORHOME 300zx Sold
1980 Fire truck Sold

leadfoot · Posted: Wed May 02, 2007 8:10 pm Post subject:

My ignition housing only has three bolts...
anyway, the switchgear seperates into two parts(front + back) each part is one stalk, there are three thin plastic hooks on the front part that hook onto the back part that you can lever off with your finger. They are spaced about 120 degrees apart.
Remove the electrical connector by prying it apart from the switchgear with a flat blade screwdriver , just a small one to get it loose. You should be able to pull it apart by hand after that.
Usually the electrical connector on your left (when viewing from the seat is the one that catches against the dash. Just wiggle the switchgear a bit and you should be able to pull it forward.
Hope this helps.
Leadfoot
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

!tom · Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 2:23 am Post subject:

The electrical connector to worry about on my car is under the dash at the back of the steering column. It is here where the connector to the turn signal switch stalk is.
_________________
78 924 NA
5-lug

924aussie · Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 1:17 pm Post subject:

_________________
green 924 .. 1980 rego 924PSH
1998 Mopar Neon ... sick
2003 Challenger / Montery 4WD
1995 Hyundai Scoupe ... sold
1998 Nissan Silvia ... sons back from OS he has taken it
BIG BLOODY MOTORHOME 300zx Sold
1980 Fire truck Sold

leadfoot · Posted: Sun May 06, 2007 11:23 am Post subject:

Plastic sleeve will come off with a multi grip wrench...
If you end up with another circlip I really need one thanks??
Leadfoot
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

RC · Joined: 25 Mar 2007 Posts: 2637 Location: Australia

Porsche must have changed the aluminium casting and indicator stalks at some stage between 80 and 82 from 4 screws to 3.
Mine has 4 screws like 924aussie. I purchased a set of stalks/switches from a UK RHD 85 944. These are like Leadfoot describes on his 82 ROW. Not only am i pissed to find different mounting but the bastards are still arse about,- with the indicator on the left.
The wiring connectors are completely different too. Only the surround bezel looks similar. The casting must be different but haven`t seen a 3 screw one to compare. Dont know about the bearing.
Anyone have any knowledge about interchangability and especially if you have RHD stalks.

Roger

leadfoot · Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 8:43 am Post subject:

As far as I'm aware, I'm in the middle of doing this myself...
The earlier stalks are metal... later are plastic.
The ignition housing needs to be drilled to get the lock barrel out
The later sorrund is a two part design, not sure about the earlier ones...
The bearing fits both but the earlier housings use a circlip retainer... you have to cut around the bearing on the later housing to get it out, but make sure you don't take of too much metal as it needs to be pinched back in to retain the bearing...
I'll let you know about the electrical connections when I find out..
Leadfoot
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

RC · Joined: 25 Mar 2007 Posts: 2637 Location: Australia

Yea, what looked like a simple swap has turned into another PITA!
Do your stalks look like these 944 ones?

Are they left or right hand?
Your wiring should have the later style connectors?
Let us know how you go with this as i`ve shelved it for the moment. Just having so much fun fitting those LHD headers!

Cheers,
Roger

leadfoot · Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 4:41 pm Post subject:

Yes, identical, indicator is on the left...
which I got used to after driving a ford transit for work...
Looks like I'll have to make some flyleads...
Leadfoot
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

steeny · Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 6:33 pm Post subject:

i thought all 924's had the indicator on the left, and wipers on the right

mines got 4 flat head screws that hold the switchgear in. never got so far as splitting it to more than one piece. as far as i remember, i can just undo the 6mm allen key bolt, put the key in the ignition, and pull it all out as one piece. steering bearing, switchgear and ignition in one.

i've replaced the bearing before and it was a PITA. very very tight. but gee, it helped tighten up the wobble in the steering wheel.

cheers
_________________
1978 924 N/A
she's gone.....

924aussie · Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 4:45 pm Post subject:

Ozzie · Posted: Tue May 08, 2007 6:15 pm Post subject:

Go to a bearing place with either the shaft diameter or hole diameter and thickness- depending on external or internal- probably cost $1.
_________________
Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance

flosho · Posted: Thu May 10, 2007 4:56 am Post subject:

Got a question on this same topic. My car "cuts out" once in a while where the tach will bottom out, car will lose power for litterally a split second. This is said to be caused by the ignition switch which go bad often..

Which ignition switch do I buy?? I'm looking at EBS' website..

http://www.ebsracing.com/epcvsoapimc.epc?cookieID=22Y0VXPW922Y0VXTSU&drillid=8&subcatid=801079@@Ignition+System&clientid=ebsracing

Part numbers:

VWW015914

VWW079313

Which one, or both?
_________________
[This Space For Rent]

leadfoot · Posted: Fri May 11, 2007 12:28 pm Post subject:

the first one 015 914 looks right,
there were two different models IIRC, one that is all white, which atually looks like number two but that picture I think prtrays it as grey because of the light, the other one was black an white,
now from memory there was one which was particularly prone to wearing out( I think this is the black and white part., but from replacing mine I think it is possible to get at it from behind without removing any of the steering components...
The all white model was the better one... can anyone confirm this, Gohim I'm looking in you direction...
All that being said both the 931 part and 924 part are identical and fit the earlier and later ignition housing, your talking about a part under $10 too, Hey I'll swap you both of mine for a bearing circlip...
Leadfoot
_________________
1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress...

RC · Joined: 25 Mar 2007 Posts: 2637 Location: Australia

I wasn`t really sure looking at the pix as not all pins were visible.
Leadfoot is on the ball here as a genuine one, $48, about 2 years ago is all white. Let me know if U want a part no.
Its also likely this one fits other or later models as it had 2 connections not used on a 77, although the holes are still in the connector(no terminals) so it will still fit OK.

Roger