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[jimcarver]

I undertook the "simple" job of replacing the fuel pump check valve last night.
I couldn't get a open ended spanner onto the check valve because the fittings for the wires either side of the valve were in the way. So i tried holding the pump and undoing the cap nut. It ended up releasing the the check valve from the pump. I figured i would turn the pump so the check valve was out. Then i would be able to put a ratchet on the check valve and another on the cap nut to undo it....long story short i broke the banjo fitting, the check valve with the end of the banjo bolt and cap nut are released but I can’t separate them. So I have ordered a new nut.

So how do I put the new check valve on since I can’t get a ratchet in between the wire fittings.
Also. I know there is a sealing ring either side of the banjo bolt (part 42 on the pic in the post below) but is there also one between the check valve and pump. I forgot to look.

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=15721

Thanks

[Mike924]

Yes, you need a sealing washer between each joint; a total of three in all.

It's a bit of a piss-poor arangement. The earlier pumps had a longer 'nose' that you could get a spanner onto. All the later ones have got is a square section right at the base which you can't get to because the terminals are in the way.

Unfortunately, the best way to get a reliable seal is to fit the check valve good and tight with the pump off the car. Then just do the cap nut up to the minimum torque (which I think is 10 Nm, but you'll need to check this) once the pump is installed.

The problem is that the fuel hose is quite stiff and any movement tends to undo the check valve joint rather than the cap nut, which just seems to grip better.
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1985 Porsche 924 'Lux', Kalahari Beige (my ex)
1993 Porsche 968 Coupe, Midnight Blue, 6 spd

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