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jimcarver

Joined: 12 Dec 2006 Posts: 45 Location: London, UK
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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 1:57 am Post subject: Starter probs |
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Hey everyone i finally got my hot start prob fixed. But the ongoing problems seems to have taken its toll on the starter motor.
It packed up once and i hit it a few times and it was good for about 15 starts, but it has happened again. So i repeated the process and it works again.
Obviously i know this is a temp fix. But does this sound like simple case of replacing the starter motor and all being well. Or is there something i could do that doesnt involve a replacement as it looks like a awkward job.
I do have a spare, although its not new. |
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Smoothie

Joined: 01 Jan 2003 Posts: 8032 Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)
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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 2:47 am Post subject: |
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If smacking it gets it going that's a sure sign of a solenoid problem. Good news is you shouldn't have to replace the whole starter, just the solenoid. Bad news is the starter has to come out to do it.
Anyone know if the 924NA solenoid is accessible with the starter still in the car? I'm thinking that if it is, you could replace those 3 solenoid mounting screws with hex head bolts of the same size - this would allow you to remove-replace the solenoid alone in the future without removing the whole starter. (Those countersunk, flathead screws don't come out easily, so the starter has to be out and preferably in a bench vise while removing them. -Then the replacement hex head bolts could be easily removed with a wrench for future solenoid service. -If they'd be accessible.) From my own experience, the starter motors are very durable, but the solenoid needs replacing or cleaning every few years. _________________ "..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."
'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox |
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morghen

Joined: 21 Jan 2005 Posts: 9102 Location: Romania
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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 3:06 am Post subject: |
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Nah no real point in trying to change the solenoid with the starter on. Might be possible...but the starter comes out preaty easy on the NA. Engine must be cold or you'll get your hands burned from the exhaust. Battery should be dissconected. Good luck. _________________ Supercharger and EFI kits
https://www.the924.com |
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bruce76-924

Joined: 22 Feb 2007 Posts: 105 Location: Bradford, England
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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 8:57 am Post subject: |
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The starter motor comes out easier if you undo the oil filter mounting (24 mm banjo bolt - I think), no need to drop the oil as only the oil in the filter will come out. Depending on how many of the original heat shields are still on the exhaust then you might also want to drop the front pipe off the manifold, although this may only be of help on right hand drive cars as access is made worse with the steering shaft. Have fun!
Cheers, Bruce. _________________ 1976 924 LHD, full cage, semi tube chassis, 951 brakes, lightweight 951 body panels.
1.8t engine conversion with Holset turbo and 6 speed Audi gearbox. |
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Joes924Racer

Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 11964 Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!
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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 10:09 am Post subject: |
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what do-ya think everyone after 3 replies the problems licked..
filter and pipe or the starter will get young up.. those
3 screw that hold on the solenoids are tight I use a
cordless dewalt you might try that or a big screwdriver. _________________ 1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo. |
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jimcarver

Joined: 12 Dec 2006 Posts: 45 Location: London, UK
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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry forgot to mention i can hear a click when its not working.
Isn't this the solenoid? |
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leadfoot

Joined: 11 Dec 2002 Posts: 2222 Location: gOLD cOAST Australia
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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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It's probably stuck in it's bore, easiest to work on if you pull it out with the starter.
Re do the wiring from the starter to the alternator and starter to firewall connection whilst your at it, use plenty of protective heat tape.
Lastly make sure you have the heat shield that hugs the starter and protects it from the exhaust manifold heat.
Leadfoot _________________ 1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress... |
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Min

Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 2368 Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 2:30 am Post subject: |
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| jimcarver wrote: | Sorry forgot to mention i can hear a click when its not working.
Isn't this the solenoid? |
yep, that click means your solenoid is working, weither its engaging all the way or not is another story. When I had this exact problem, it turned out to be corrosion at the small white block connector in the engine bay that contains the wiring that runs down to your starter. I ended up cutting that box out and rebuilding the circuit without it. At first I thought it was an ignition switch problem. Try sending 12 volts down the power line at that little white box to see if the starter works properly right away.
Min _________________ Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting. |
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Smoothie

Joined: 01 Jan 2003 Posts: 8032 Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 2:44 am Post subject: |
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| jimcarver wrote: | Sorry forgot to mention i can hear a click when its not working.
Isn't this the solenoid? |
Yes.
The solenoid can fail in different ways - (1) the "piston" (aka- armature?) can become corroded or gunked-up and stuck in the bore (with that you get no click) and (2) the internal switch can get corroded - in this case you get the click if the piston is free and moving, but no motor activation because the switch is bad and obviously not completing the circuit.
Usually, smacking the starter helps if the piston is stuck in the bore.
If the switch is corroded, but not too bad and the piston is free, then just turning the ignition switch on-off repeatedly can sometimes loosen enough oxidation from the solenoids' internal switch to make it work a few more times. It's possible that you have a loose wire connection to the solenoid and just enough of a connection to provide enough "juice" to pull in the solenoid, but not enough to move the starter motor - so check those connections first. A nearly dead battery, bad connections at the battery, or old oxidized wiring can pull a similar trick on you by inhibiting the flow of current. _________________ "..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."
'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox |
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!tom

Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1941 Location: Victoria, BC Canada
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 4:28 am Post subject: |
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Call me crazy, but it sounds like worn out brushes in the starter to me. _________________ 78 924 NA
5-lug |
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Smoothie

Joined: 01 Jan 2003 Posts: 8032 Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 5:14 am Post subject: |
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That is another possibility, and another that a smack might help to get it going, but IMHO still less likely than a solenoid problem. I still have the original starter that was on my car when I got it in '92. I had to disassemble it about 1.5 years ago to replace a wire and found the brushes still in good shape and not needing replacement so I left them. Here's that starter with my big crazy wire repair - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/smoothies931pics/detail?.dir=bdb3&.dnm=47a4.jpg&.src=ph This is why I call the motor part very durable - it's been through many solenoid cleanings and replacements, but the motor keeps going strong. (Don't rule out brushes though - it's still a possibility, just less likely.)
To test, with the starter out of the car and in a bench vise, connect 12v+ to that wire that goes into the motor and 12v- to earth in the area of the starter's mounting bolt holes. If it spins, then the brushes are good (to see exactly how much life's left in them you'd have to remove the motors' end cover).
To bench test the solenoid, leave it attached to the starter, then with 12v- connected to the mounting hole area, attach (I use either a battery charger or an automobile battery plus jumper cables) - attach your 12v+ clamp to the other large post (terminal 30) on the solenoid (that is not the one with the wire that goes into the starter motor) then with a screw driver, make contact between that 12v+ (30) connection and the small post (50) on the solenoid (12v+ to the small post activates the solenoid which should pull in and throw the gear out and close the internal switch to spin the motor). Obviously keep your hand only on the insulated part of the screwdriver to avoid a shock. If she no work with this test, then the solenoid's bad.
Here's a solenoid that lasted me less than 2 years -
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/smoothies931pics/detail?.dir=bdb3&.dnm=1329.jpg&.src=ph
The parts at bottom-center and bottom-left comprise the internal switch. You can see how badly corroded they are.
-And another thread including a way to apply some preventative maint to the internal switch of a new or used solenoid -
http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=16983 _________________ "..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."
'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox |
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Ozzie

Joined: 12 Mar 2005 Posts: 4448 Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 8:15 am Post subject: |
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| !tom wrote: | | Call me crazy, but it sounds like worn out brushes in the starter to me. |
You would still have to pull the starter to check and doesn't hurt to check both brushes and solenoid and put a bit of grease on the bendix. _________________ Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance |
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