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deathxninja  



Joined: 07 Jan 2007
Posts: 44

PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:32 pm    Post subject: how to remove... Reply with quote



Those damn fuel things.....
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

14mm wrench, and 12 mm wrench,

undo the fuel line off the injector or at least loosen, then unscrew the injector.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On an NA they just pull up but on a turbo they have to unscrew from the head.
Loosen or remove the fuel line as said earlier.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 3:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those should be real easy with all the access room. Use both wrenches at the same time - Put the lower (12mm) wrench on, then the upper 14mm oriented 30-or-so degrees clockwise of the lower wrench, then take them both in one hand and squeeze together. -Then loosen and unscrew the injector with the 12mm. The holder may come out with it - that's fine, otherwise obviously unscrew the holder seperately. Before reinstalling, (if you're going to), clean up all the threads the best you can. +You'll probably find the inner space between injector and holder needs cleaning. The larger holder threads can be done with either a toothbrush or small wire brush and vacuum. Vacuum while brushing the internal head threads to keep grit out of the engine. I put a bit of plumbers teflon lube ("pipe dope") on those large external holder threads to ease reinstallation and lessen the possibility of the threads grabbing and crossthreading or cracking. The torque spec for the holders ("insulating connector piece to cylinder head") is 22-25 Nm or 16-18 ftlb.
Injector to holder torque is 6-7 Nm or 4.5-5.0 ftlb.
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deathxninja  



Joined: 07 Jan 2007
Posts: 44

PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. Its nice having knowledgable people to get advice from. I am lost when it comes to these german rides, but I do love them.


Any advice for rooming the head?
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

deathxninja wrote:
Any advice for rooming the head?


yup, it helps to lift it up out of the bay after everything is removed
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Benino  



Joined: 30 Jan 2003
Posts: 508
Location: Vista, CA (San Diego County)

PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

deathxninja wrote:
Thanks. Its nice having knowledgable people to get advice from. I am lost when it comes to these german rides, but I do love them.


Any advice for rooming the head?


You should loosen the head bolts in a kind or random pattern instead of sequential from one end to the other. This decreases the possibility of warping.
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drewnashty  



Joined: 11 Sep 2006
Posts: 32
Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Must the entire engine come out of the bay in order to take the head off? I am running into an issue with removing the head where the back side of the hide hits the firewall when sliding the head out and there is still another inch or two of the head studs inside of the head. There's no room or place to try jacking the motor up on oneside a bit just to get the head to angle more towards vertical. Tried jacking the engine up as far as possible without hitting the bellhousing on the firewall still not enough room.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rumor has it that it can be done on a 931

BUT

rumor also has it that it's easier to pull the motor.
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

normally the head doesnt have head studs, it normally is just bolts,
however if there are studs, is there an allen key slot in the end to be able to remove the studs from the block?
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lizard wrote:
there an allen key slot in the end


Is this how Raceware studs are set up?
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless they changed the design since I got mine, no there's no hex socket in the ends of Raceware head studs. I noticed the possible future problem while installing mine and cut a slot in the top of the studs so a flat-blade screwdriver could be used to remove them with the engine in the car. You might be able to to use 2 nuts tightened against each other at the end of the stud and a wrench to back them out - if you can find room to do it.
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie wrote:
Unless they changed the design since I got mine, no there's no hex socket in the ends of Raceware head studs. I noticed the possible future problem while installing mine and cut a slot in the top of the studs so a flat-blade screwdriver could be used to remove them with the engine in the car. You might be able to to use 2 nuts tightened against each other at the end of the stud and a wrench to back them out - if you can find room to do it.


I just got a set, they havn't changed their design, I personally didn't cut the slot becuase they are only supposed to be finger tight in the block according to the installation instructions, and for fear of destroying the metal temper.

Min
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This may work:

Remove nuts and washers, lift head as high as you can, and put a small piece of wood between the head and the block to hold the head.

Then use your fingers or a pair of pliers to twist the studs out.
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
This may work:

Remove nuts and washers, lift head as high as you can, and put a small piece of wood between the head and the block to hold the head.

Then use your fingers or a pair of pliers to twist the studs out.


channel lock pliers I would imagine to be the best, and use vice grips or a very small pipewrench as the last resort.
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