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deathxninja

Joined: 07 Jan 2007 Posts: 44
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Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:32 pm Post subject: how to remove... |
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Those damn fuel things..... _________________ 81 924 turbo |
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Lizard

Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 9364 Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada
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Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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14mm wrench, and 12 mm wrench,
undo the fuel line off the injector or at least loosen, then unscrew the injector. _________________ 3 928s, |
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Ozzie

Joined: 12 Mar 2005 Posts: 4448 Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia
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Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 3:31 pm Post subject: |
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On an NA they just pull up but on a turbo they have to unscrew from the head.
Loosen or remove the fuel line as said earlier. _________________ Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance |
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Smoothie

Joined: 01 Jan 2003 Posts: 8032 Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)
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Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 3:34 am Post subject: |
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Those should be real easy with all the access room. Use both wrenches at the same time - Put the lower (12mm) wrench on, then the upper 14mm oriented 30-or-so degrees clockwise of the lower wrench, then take them both in one hand and squeeze together. -Then loosen and unscrew the injector with the 12mm. The holder may come out with it - that's fine, otherwise obviously unscrew the holder seperately. Before reinstalling, (if you're going to), clean up all the threads the best you can. +You'll probably find the inner space between injector and holder needs cleaning. The larger holder threads can be done with either a toothbrush or small wire brush and vacuum. Vacuum while brushing the internal head threads to keep grit out of the engine. I put a bit of plumbers teflon lube ("pipe dope") on those large external holder threads to ease reinstallation and lessen the possibility of the threads grabbing and crossthreading or cracking. The torque spec for the holders ("insulating connector piece to cylinder head") is 22-25 Nm or 16-18 ftlb.
Injector to holder torque is 6-7 Nm or 4.5-5.0 ftlb. _________________ "..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."
'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox |
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deathxninja

Joined: 07 Jan 2007 Posts: 44
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Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 9:45 am Post subject: |
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Thanks. Its nice having knowledgable people to get advice from. I am lost when it comes to these german rides, but I do love them.
Any advice for rooming the head? _________________ 81 924 turbo |
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Lizard

Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 9364 Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada
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Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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| deathxninja wrote: | | Any advice for rooming the head? |
yup, it helps to lift it up out of the bay after everything is removed  _________________ 3 928s, |
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Benino

Joined: 30 Jan 2003 Posts: 508 Location: Vista, CA (San Diego County)
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Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 4:08 am Post subject: |
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| deathxninja wrote: | Thanks. Its nice having knowledgable people to get advice from. I am lost when it comes to these german rides, but I do love them.
Any advice for rooming the head? |
You should loosen the head bolts in a kind or random pattern instead of sequential from one end to the other. This decreases the possibility of warping. _________________ 1980 Porsche 924 N/A USA
1980 Porsche 924 turbo USA
1987 Porsche 944S USA |
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drewnashty
Joined: 11 Sep 2006 Posts: 32 Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 10:17 am Post subject: |
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Must the entire engine come out of the bay in order to take the head off? I am running into an issue with removing the head where the back side of the hide hits the firewall when sliding the head out and there is still another inch or two of the head studs inside of the head. There's no room or place to try jacking the motor up on oneside a bit just to get the head to angle more towards vertical. Tried jacking the engine up as far as possible without hitting the bellhousing on the firewall still not enough room. _________________ 81 931 |
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ideola

Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI
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Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 10:42 am Post subject: |
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Rumor has it that it can be done on a 931
BUT
rumor also has it that it's easier to pull the motor. _________________ erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made |
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Lizard

Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 9364 Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada
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Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 10:43 am Post subject: |
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normally the head doesnt have head studs, it normally is just bolts,
however if there are studs, is there an allen key slot in the end to be able to remove the studs from the block? _________________ 3 928s, |
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Rasta Monsta

Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 11:22 am Post subject: |
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| Lizard wrote: | | there an allen key slot in the end |
Is this how Raceware studs are set up? _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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Smoothie

Joined: 01 Jan 2003 Posts: 8032 Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)
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Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 11:57 am Post subject: |
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Unless they changed the design since I got mine, no there's no hex socket in the ends of Raceware head studs. I noticed the possible future problem while installing mine and cut a slot in the top of the studs so a flat-blade screwdriver could be used to remove them with the engine in the car. You might be able to to use 2 nuts tightened against each other at the end of the stud and a wrench to back them out - if you can find room to do it. _________________ "..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."
'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox |
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Min

Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 2368 Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 12:20 pm Post subject: |
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| Smoothie wrote: | | Unless they changed the design since I got mine, no there's no hex socket in the ends of Raceware head studs. I noticed the possible future problem while installing mine and cut a slot in the top of the studs so a flat-blade screwdriver could be used to remove them with the engine in the car. You might be able to to use 2 nuts tightened against each other at the end of the stud and a wrench to back them out - if you can find room to do it. |
I just got a set, they havn't changed their design, I personally didn't cut the slot becuase they are only supposed to be finger tight in the block according to the installation instructions, and for fear of destroying the metal temper.
Min _________________ Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting. |
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Paul

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 9491 Location: Southeast Wisconsin
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Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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This may work:
Remove nuts and washers, lift head as high as you can, and put a small piece of wood between the head and the block to hold the head.
Then use your fingers or a pair of pliers to twist the studs out. _________________ White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy. |
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Lizard

Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 9364 Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada
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Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:56 pm Post subject: |
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| Paul wrote: | This may work:
Remove nuts and washers, lift head as high as you can, and put a small piece of wood between the head and the block to hold the head.
Then use your fingers or a pair of pliers to twist the studs out. |
channel lock pliers I would imagine to be the best, and use vice grips or a very small pipewrench as the last resort. _________________ 3 928s, |
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