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[JB 924]

I've been trying to get the side markers smooth, and a dent that was in the rear above the taillights.

On the side markers in the rear, I've sanded it down with a large sanding block, and just using my hands. Using my hands, it definitely works better. It looks perfectly straight, and when I go over it with my fingers, it looks perfectly straight. But when I use my whole hand, I always feel these very small bumps that I can't seem to get out. I can't tell if they are high or low areas. They are very small.

I've tried numorous times (sanding with the sanding block), to add another thin layer of bondo above this, but keep hitting the same problem. Today I tried just using my hands, it's much better, but I haven't tried adding another layer. Should I just put another skim coat on top, then sand it with my hands again, or is there a trick to it?

On the dent in the rear, I've also tried using a small sanding block, out of wood (no rubber on the bottom), but it didn't work any better than doing it by hand. If it had a rubber layer on the bottom, where the sandpaper is, would that make everything smooth?

I've spent a ton of hours trying to just get the one side marker smooth, but it alsways turn out to be the same as before. What do I have to do?

I always put a heavy coat on, sand it down into rough shape, add another thinner coat, and try to get that into perfect shape with 120 or 180 grit. I use 60 grit for very rough areas.

Thanks in advance, and sorry for the life story!

Jens

Also, the car will probably get 4 primer coats (2 coats, then go over any missed areas, then another 1 or 2). After that, 1 or 2 base coats. Yes Black. And then 3 clear coats. I haven't sprayed any of the primer yet, but it doesn't say anything of high build, so it's prbably pretty thin. I know black will magnify any imperfections, but will the primer hide these minor bumps?

[Sebring79]

A little trick is to use a fog coat (guide coat) of a primer that's a contrasting color to your filler. Then when you sand you'll be able to see where the high and low spots are.

Also, try sanding (using a block) in an X pattern. Actually, it's more of an * pattern. Diagonally one direction, then the other (like an X) then the 2 other directions (like a +). Basically try not to go back and forth in one direction. Try to sand from all directions. Kinda hard to explain but you'll get a feel for it, especially if you can see where the highs and lows are.

[JB 924]

Thanks, I'll definitely try that method!

[stevencrichton]

As said before the contrasting primer is an old pro's trick for smooth bodywork.

I think my friend who used to work for shell said they were called flattening primers. There's two kinds the one that gives the contrast and the one that is in effect a flattening micro layer of filler.

I would say to get the haynes bodywork manual. For all people it is a book where you'll always learn something new. Even pro's as it covers rust spots to full on fibreglass copy moulding and plastic interior welding.

Keep up the good work on the motor.

Steve
_________________
I had a diesel now own a porsche and my little pocket is crying in pain

[JB 924]

Wow, finally. I'm actually getting somewhere with this. The star method works very well. Thanks alot.

[Peter_in_AU]

[JB 924]

I don't know if I would buy a Haynes, again. It always comes in completely useless when you need it. There are quite a few books on Amazon on Bodywork, plus they have reviews.