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flosho

Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3160 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 9:22 am Post subject: Oil leak from above the oil distributor block? |
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Ok, when you're on your back looking up at the bottom of the car, you see where the oil filter is, and the two lines that come off that, then there is a line that runs just behind it, is this line supposed to be loose?
I noticed a slightly larger bit of oil burning and think its coming from around the oil filter location because thats where it is burning off the exhaust and the filter/filter adaptor has drips on it. I took a picture of what I'm talking about...
Ok, after lookin' through the PDF I think this is the pipe I'm thinking off.. you can see the big triangle thing on the fat oil line at the bottom right of the above picture and it seems like the line is coming into this...
This appears to be the breather line.. which would explain why a little more boost is causing a little more oil? Like I said, this metal oil line running verticle that I'm talking about is REALLY loose, I can wiggle it all over hell down there.. Anyone ever have this come loose?
Thanks
Jason _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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Lizard

Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 9364 Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada
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Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:37 am Post subject: |
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it is tough to try to get it together properly when you assemble BTDT _________________ 3 928s, |
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flosho

Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3160 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 11:30 am Post subject: |
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Probably easiest with the oil filter off during an oil change eh? _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 9135 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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Posted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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Mine broke; it smoked badly on LH turns.
There is a tab on the hard pipe that goes up to the breather; it was not properly installed at one point (bolts to the turbo mount) or broke off, I forget. The movement allowed the pipe to fracture, basically right above the turbo - actually right at the 90 deg bend in the pipe. As mentioned, due to inertia, that let all the oil out of the breather on LH turns. Looked like it was going to blow up!
I tried to sleeve it with stainless braided hose; didn't seal it sufficiently, though it did cut down on the leak. I ended up having to replace it with a good used part. _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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flosho

Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3160 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 4:38 am Post subject: |
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| 924RACR wrote: | Mine broke; it smoked badly on LH turns.
There is a tab on the hard pipe that goes up to the breather; it was not properly installed at one point (bolts to the turbo mount) or broke off, I forget. The movement allowed the pipe to fracture, basically right above the turbo - actually right at the 90 deg bend in the pipe. As mentioned, due to inertia, that let all the oil out of the breather on LH turns. Looked like it was going to blow up!
I tried to sleeve it with stainless braided hose; didn't seal it sufficiently, though it did cut down on the leak. I ended up having to replace it with a good used part. |
Is this job able to be performed with everything still in the car? Those are the exact symptoms of my situation, car burned oil off the exhaust on left hand corners.. _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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flosho

Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3160 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 5:20 am Post subject: |
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I got under the car this afternoon, and seems like the verticle pipe separated right at the air/oil separater.
Also looking closer, mine is a little different then the part I circled, on my car the pipe goes straight up, theres no 90* bend as shown in the picture, unless that 90* in the diagram is up above the turbo? _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 9135 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 5:25 am Post subject: |
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Yes, the bend is up over the turbo, pretty much.
I can't remember how much I had to remove to get the replacement hose in, sorry... _________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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flosho

Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3160 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 5:36 am Post subject: |
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| 924RACR wrote: | Yes, the bend is up over the turbo, pretty much.
I can't remember how much I had to remove to get the replacement hose in, sorry... |
Alright, one last question, before I decide if I want to tackle this job or let my mechanic do it.. It might be faster/easier to let someone with a lift do it.
How bad is it to drive it like this? Is it just going to burn the oil in the oil/air separator, or is the oil line that goes from the block to the turbo also going to be losing oil??
If the oil loss will be too significant that I could damage the turbo I'm not gonna take the chance, but I may have to drive it before I can get it fixed. _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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John Brown

Joined: 07 Nov 2002 Posts: 903 Location: Leesburg VA
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Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 10:05 am Post subject: |
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So long as the break is above the oil level in the pan ( and I think it is) the loss should not endanger the motor. The large line is a return drain from the turbo bearing to the pan. Since it is large diameter and completely open to the pan there can be no significant pressure in it.
The trianglar/rectangular metal housing is an seperator or baffle and the vertical small diameter tube is a breather. The breather bends 90 just below the manifold and points to the front of the motor. Depending on the year and modification level there is either a hose running from the end of the breather tube all the way across the car to join the main crankcase breather at the air/oil seperator; or, as shown and circled by you it connects to a second small diameter metal line which enters the side of the head.
You are probably going to have trouble finding the breather new. And won't like the price if you do.
I just put my car together; but since I was not trying to do just that piece I can't say for sure what must be done to just do that. I am inclined to think you may need to pull the oil filter and adapter and up top remove the turbo air pipes. Be SURE to immeadiately close the opening to the turbo as soon as it's uncovered. I have an compressor wheel here which is missing almost all the impeller blades from someone making that mistake.
Good luck _________________ John
80 931 - #931 44Cup
99 Escalade - tows track cars
gone but not forgotten: original 924.org car - 82 |
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flosho

Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3160 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 6:36 am Post subject: |
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Ok.. So I'm thinking of tackling this job myself as it seems pretty straight forward..
From being underneath the car, looks like I'll have to:
1. drain oil
2. remove oil filter adapter and all oil lines going to and from adapter
3. remove turbo to oil pan return line
At this point, I'm looking at just have the line rewelded together? Since I haven't had much luck with anyone selling one.. Seems like its doable..
Then just bolt every back together, i have a haynes, and it gives torque specs so thats not a big deal..
Question I have is, is the only seal I would need to replace is the O-ring seal that goes between the adapter and the block? Problem there is Pelican says (online) that its going to take 2+ weeks to get it to me.  _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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OutOfTheBox
Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 434
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Posted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:06 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | Question I have is, is the only seal I would need to replace is the O-ring seal that goes between the adapter and the block? |
I just get from a hydraulics store, off the shelf, I use the ultra high temp stuff. All the o-rings in the turbo area can be replaced at a good hydraulic seal supplier, but make sure its the ultra high temp.
Also use new aluminium washers on the oil banjos, dont bother with copper, you will never have a leak with aluminium, and they pinch up at low torque.
I have completely removed and reinstalled the turbo at least 5 times, on my 931, never had an oil leak, always used NEW aluminium washers.
I buy the washers in boxes of a 100 from a German company called Wurth Fastners. They also supply copper coated manifold/turbo nuts in bulk, 1/5 the price you normally pay. |
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leadfoot

Joined: 11 Dec 2002 Posts: 2222 Location: gOLD cOAST Australia
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Posted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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yeah I had to buy a supply of fifty exhaust studs and nuts each when dealing with them, great that they deal to the public but a PITA when you only want three studs and five nuts....
Leadfoot _________________ 1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress... |
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flosho

Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3160 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 6:01 am Post subject: |
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Ok, so I got a new turbo to oil pan drain line, but I ahh.. cant ge tthe old one off.. Any ideas on how to get this thing off? I have the whole piece from the piece that bolts to the bottom of the turbo middle section to the fitting that goes onto the fitting that is already on the oil pan.
 _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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OutOfTheBox
Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 434
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Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 6:08 am Post subject: |
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what fitting cant you loosen ?
the oil pan fitting ? |
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flosho

Joined: 01 Jul 2004 Posts: 3160 Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
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Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 6:16 am Post subject: |
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Yeah the one on the oil line that connects to the oil pan.. in the picture it is the one on the right side of the picture..
Its like 1 and 7/16" or something(happen to be the same size as the eccentric bolt, so i have a wrench that big)... I tried crankin' on it but doesn't seem to be moving.. _________________ [This Space For Rent] |
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