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Removing crank with engine in situ

 
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Jaf  



Joined: 08 Jun 2006
Posts: 194
Location: Oria. Spain

PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:31 am    Post subject: Removing crank with engine in situ Reply with quote

Can it be done? A while back I removed the big ends and replaced them so I know I can get to a fair amount of the engine. Haynes not really a lot of help though in whether the crank will come out without the engine removed. Got to remove the oil pump and flywheel too but is there anything else? Crank needs to be ground as there's a bit of wear. Keep changing my mind as to whether to do it or not.

Thanks,

Jaf
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as the pistons stay up.
Someone else may know more about this.
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TFW  



Joined: 05 Dec 2005
Posts: 27
Location: Oxford

PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll wait for an expert to correct me but if the big ends and crank need doing I'll take a guess the bores will need doing as well
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
Posts: 3903
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



The picture above shows one trouble spot for pulling the crank with the engine in the car, the front of the crank runs through the oil pump, so the oil pump would need to come off at the front (as you already know).



Of course, at the rear, the flywheel bolts to the crank. So, you would need to seperate the bellhousing from the engine at a minimum to remove the clutch assembly and then flywheel to be able to drop the crank (as you already know).

At some point, it is just easier to pull the engine, and if you are already seperating the bellhousing from the engine, removing the transmission, sliding the torque tube back, removing the oil pump, dropping the cross member etc etc, you might as well pull the engine. Just one man's opinion, I am not an expert.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It can be done, but in addition to all of the above, don't forget that the crank is heavy before you drop it on your face.

I'd yank the radiator and front crossmember and pull the motor with the bell housing still on the motor.
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
Posts: 3903
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point, it is very heavy, never thought of that. If I was dropping the crank with the engine in place (which I wouldn't), I'd find a good hockey or football helmet with a full face mask for protection.
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

remove the engine.
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Stampedetrail  



Joined: 29 May 2005
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Location: Fairbanks, Alaska

PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just out of curiosity, is it possible to remove the pistons & rods with the engine still installed?
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Benji0301  



Joined: 18 Sep 2005
Posts: 66
Location: UK

PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago when I was worried about the new rings i'd fitted. By the time i'd removed the crossmeber etc. It only took me an hour more to strip the fuel system out in one piece Then the radiator (4 bolts). Engine crane in job done (I know there are other parts to remove but you get my drift)

Save yourself some time and hassle and possible injury & the remove engine. Then at least you can strip it so all parts can be checked at the same time. At least that way you're not laying on your back and can see everything clearly.

Dale
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Jaf  



Joined: 08 Jun 2006
Posts: 194
Location: Oria. Spain

PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all. Seems that the concensus is to remove the engine. Problem is I don't have a hoist or an engine bench. How come there's mention of removing the crossmember? I didn't have to drop it to do the big ends before. If I padded the crossmember could I ease (!) the crank down onto it? Stop it dropping onto my head?! I've had the gearbox out before to get the bearings changing and boy is that heavy.

Of course if I do start this work you all know what'll happen: piston rings are a bit weak better change them, might as well do the clutch, ah sod it new pistons, head gasket, valves etc.... Big money. Especially if I end up selling it for 500 pounds. Hum.
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Benji0301  



Joined: 18 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jaf,

Are you doing this to sell the car or do you plan on keeping it. If you're selling it why bother because as you say it might only make £500.

Alternatively if you're going to keep it i'd be happy to give you a hand & have learned from experience now where to buy what parts etc. If you have 86.48 pistons i've got a new set of 86.5 rings also a spare set of valve stem oil seals and most if not all new seals/gaskets etc. Only thing you would probably need is a new set of head bolts which are about £15 for all 10 from GSF.

I can bring a crane but don't have a stand anymore as I borrowed mine off a mate. Add on top of that having your head skimmed (£30) & bores re-honed/glaze busted (£20 unless they need reboring!!) and it shouldn't cost you much more than £150 tops. Your engine will be as good as its going to get without and modification.

Give me a PM if interested and i'll see when i'm free to pop down. I'm only in ipswich so about 40 miles from you.

Dale
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Jaf  



Joined: 08 Jun 2006
Posts: 194
Location: Oria. Spain

PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Benji0301 wrote:
Jaf,

Are you doing this to sell the car or do you plan on keeping it. If you're selling it why bother because as you say it might only make £500.

Alternatively if you're going to keep it i'd be happy to give you a hand & have learned from experience now where to buy what parts etc. If you have 86.48 pistons i've got a new set of 86.5 rings also a spare set of valve stem oil seals and most if not all new seals/gaskets etc. Only thing you would probably need is a new set of head bolts which are about £15 for all 10 from GSF.

I can bring a crane but don't have a stand anymore as I borrowed mine off a mate. Add on top of that having your head skimmed (£30) & bores re-honed/glaze busted (£20 unless they need reboring!!) and it shouldn't cost you much more than £150 tops. Your engine will be as good as its going to get without and modification.

Give me a PM if interested and i'll see when i'm free to pop down. I'm only in ipswich so about 40 miles from you.

Dale


Dale, thank you so much for the offer. That's so kind. I guess I really need to make a decision. Thing is I'm moving to Spain and I just can't make my mind up what to the with the car. I've had her for 11 years, although not running for 7, and just don't want to lose her. Sad I know. But in Spain I'm not sure I'd want to drive her on the wrong side of the road and on dirt tracks. So I keep changing my mind! Sell, keep, drive to Spain, trailer her over. Argh!
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