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New Oil Pressure Sender - No Markings on Posts?
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 10:04 am    Post subject: New Oil Pressure Sender - No Markings on Posts? Reply with quote

Alright, I installed the new oil pressure sender on my engine, fit fine, no issues, looks physically the same as the old one. However, there are no markings on the connection posts, is this normal? How do I figure out which wire to connect to which post?


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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With an ohm meter, of course!

The idiot light is the one that has zero ohms to ground.
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Chrenan  



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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul, much appreciated, I'll get to work with the multimeter.
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Chrenan  



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PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2006 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul (or any other electrical guru),

Can you explain how to do this test in a little more detail? I seem to be getting ohms out of both posts when I am expecting one of them not to move the needle.
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Paul  



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PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2006 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The idiot light post should have very low resistance from the post to the case of the sender, since it closes a set of contacts to provide a ground for the idiot light when there is no oil pressure.

The other post should have a higher resistance to ground. What values are you seeing?
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Chrenan  



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PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2006 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK,

I have the resistance on the multimeter set to 1K ohms, the only setting I have for resistance.

With one lead on a post, and one lead on the case of the sender, I get the same reading regardless of the post:



Just between 0 and 1 on the ohm scale (top red scale). Is it that the 1K ohm scale is not correct for this type of test? Do I need a multimeter with a variety of ohm scales?

Part number on the sender is 047 919 561 which I am pretty sure is correct for the 924.
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Ozzie  



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PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2006 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For ten bucks au I can get a digital multimeter at bunnings hardware which would give you more accurate readings.
The resistance for the guage sender may be small (below 100 ohms) and the light would be zero.
Hard to pick up on a 1k ohm scale.
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Chrenan  



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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm, that's what I thought might be the case. I'll hit Radio Shack at lunch and see if I can find a better ohm meter.
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Smoothie  



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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 1:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another approach would be to hook it up to an air compressor - The light switch contact should show 0 Ohms now with no pressure meaning the switch is closed. If you can apply some pressure through the threaded end, at approx 6-12 psi the switch should open and suddenly send your Ohms reading way up (indicating the switch is open).
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, that's a good idea too!
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Smoothie  



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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh there's more
I just had a look at mine with a dental mirror - mine's marked with a "G" and a "W". These correspond to what's indicated in the wiring diagrams. "W" (or "Wk") gets the blue/black wire that leads to the light. "G" gets the blue/white wire that goes to the gauge. My sender is also round on one side and formed somewhat as if crimped on the other side. If yours has this "crimp" - looking at the connections end with the crimp to your left and the rounded side to your right, the "W" terminal should be at top and the "G" at bottom. Once you get it figured out, mark the gauge terminal with a "G" and the switch terminal with a "Wk" for that OE look.
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Chrenan  



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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 2:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm, I am going to look at mine closely again, but it sounds different to yours. I can't understand why mine wouldn't be marked at all, I mean how annoying is that?
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Chrenan  



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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie, I was just out in the garage, pulled a piece of masking tape off the sender that came with it. Sure enough, there is crimping on one side, I'll take a pic tommorow, hopefully you can let me know if it looks like yours.
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Chrenan  



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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie, does this look familiar? Two "crimps" on one side of the sender?


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Smoothie  



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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2006 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes that's exactly what mine looks like. In that pic, the left terminal should be "W" (warning light) and the right "G" (gauge). If it were marked, you'd see the "W" and "G" stamped into that flat 1/3 moon shaped section of steel that's facing up between the crimp and the terminals.
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