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Having trouble installing the exhaust manifold studs...
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
Posts: 3903
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 5:40 am    Post subject: Having trouble installing the exhaust manifold studs... Reply with quote

Hi guys,

I'm having some trouble installing the exhaust manifold studs into the head. Got the studs from the dealer, part number N0444115, they look identical to the ones that came out. Is there a trick to installing them? They don't seem to want to go, they thread fine for a few threads, then get very tight. I threaded a bolt onto the long threaded end to turn the studs, but I am worried about the amount of force required.

Any tips?
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Run a tap into the hole to clean them out.
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Rialto, CA

PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A tap is always a good idea after something has been to the machine shop before reassembly. Use lots of spray lubricant (like WD-40) to wash out the metal debris when you are done with the tap.

Make sure that you do not bottom out the studs when you screw them in. They do not have to tighten up before you stop screwing them in. Screw them in by hand, and stop when they are about even with the other exisiting studs. DO NOT FORCE THEM IN TO EVEN OUT THE LENGTH.
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good points guys, thanks!

I know the stud is M8x30, so picking up the right tap ahouldn't be a problem.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need the thread pitch, which Lizard recently noted is 1.25 - http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=18895
-So the tap size to get is "M8-1.25". You could bring one of the studs along to double check it.
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, thanks Smoothie!
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John Brown  



Joined: 07 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 1:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 'blind' or 'bottoming' tap will go all the way down. Not a Sears item but readily available on the internet.
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks John. Haven't actually gone out to buy one yet, so that will help. Get most of my tools at www.houseoftools.com , there is a store about 5 minutes from my house, I could spend every penny I have in there, no problem.
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep in mind once you've got this engine running ,that you will need to check those studs occasionally to make sure they havn't backed out of the head. I replaced all the studs when I did a full rebuild, 8 months later I was redoing it becuase some of them had backed out and snapped off. (luckily for me I could get visegrips on the ends of them this time) When I did this assembly both times i used new copper lock nuts and new studs, but the studs themselves backed out of the head. Now I check to make sure they are still tight every couple of months.

Min
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using new studs and copper nuts as well. Is there any way to make the studs stay first time? I'm assuming the temperatures are too high for loctite? I guess there is a risk there too that if you loctite the studs, and one snaps off, you'll never get the remainder out.
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Chrenan  



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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Threads tapped, problem solved, thanks everyone.
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augidog  



Joined: 03 Mar 2003
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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Putting my exhaust on today the last stud spun right out and looks as if it was lock- tight in. Possibly stripped in block. Can I re-tap and what size larger. Thanks.
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm, I'm glad I didn't install using loctite.

Stock size is M8, so going up to 9 or 10mm would likely work. Tapping to a larger size is something I might have a machine shop do just to be safe.
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Smoothie  



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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A thread repair insert is another option and would mean you don't have to change fastener size. "Heli-coil" is one that comes to mind, but there are others and Heli-coil wasn't the #1 preference. A search on heli-coil might bring up past discussions as well as the other brand names.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another option is you'll find the hole goes in a fair way.
Tapping all the way to the bottom and putting an all-thread stud in may fix it.
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