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rattling and vibrations from steering wheel

 
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356speedster  



Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Posts: 122
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 6:02 am    Post subject: rattling and vibrations from steering wheel Reply with quote

Hi

at normal speeds the steering feels very fresh and tight, but as soon as it exceeds 120 km/h (75 miles/h) I get rattling noise from the the steering wheel and vibrations.

it does not feel like a wheel balance issue, becuase when the rattling/vibration starts it feels like the whole steering rack is loose.

I find it kind of strange because the steering is very precise and there is no play in the steeringwheel. and with both wheels jacked up I can turn the wheels by hand and there is no play in the rack.

Can this be cuased by bad bushings on the steering rack? or are there other parts I also should check/replace?
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check tire balance first, then repack & adjust wheel bearings.
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Khal  



Joined: 26 Sep 2003
Posts: 4872
Location: Sunny and lovely interior BC, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've mentioned this before but I haven't searched for the thread (hey, I'm busy, OK?)...

Old tyres/retreads/el cheapo's? I've had a steel belt break in a tyre. Caused a bulge in the tyre and very similar symptoms to what you've mentioned. You should be able to see/feel the bulge in the tyre if this is what's happened to yours. Jack it up, spin the tyre with your palm on the face of it...

Just one more possibility to check
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9138
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Separated belts will usually show up at lower speeds.

Consider other rubber wear points: strut mounts and a-arm bushings.
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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
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Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wheel balance, front bearings, alignment...the usual suspects. Plus, there's no guarantee the tire or the wheel are perfectly round, and these cars like round. I chased this in my 944 until I spent good money on new wheels and good tires.
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep probably lost some of the weight used to balance or you've buckled the wheel on a pothole...
leadfoot
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Eturbo924  



Joined: 09 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is likely the wheel ballance or one of the wheels is warped. I had two of four wheels warp on my original 8 spoke rims.

Oh and another thing to check... just in case it is not the wheels (which I would think it is) the bolt that is holding the steering hub to the steering shaft. Lay on your back under your dash. Look up at the dash board near the wheel. There should be a round hold very close to the wheel in the dash. There is an allen head bolt throught that hole. If this bolt is loose or missing it could cause vibrations to be intense in your wheel and make some banging sound. Worth a look anyway.

Good luck
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356speedster  



Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Posts: 122
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I now think its the bushings.

I was going slow on a bumpy road today, and got the same knocking in the steering/suspension when driving over holes in the road.

This is mainly a road car so I guess rubber bushings is the way to go, or..?

I am planning to change:
- Wheel bearings
- Controll-arm bushing front/rear (and maybe new Controll-arms)
- Ball joints
- Upper strut mount (the big rubber pice with the bearing inside)
- New strut inserts (el-cheapo KYB or maybe Sachs)

btw. does anyone got experience with these cheap Controll-arms? If they are okay it might be worth to change the whole A-arm instead of the trouble of re-fitting the front bushings.

Anything else I should attend to while "beeing in there"? And are there any bolts/nuts I might expect to go bad and should order in advance?
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-nick  



Joined: 16 Nov 2002
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Location: Cambridge, MA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those arms don't have the mount for the swaybar droplink - shame on Paragon for not putting that in the description!

I haven't tried changing out the front bushings in the arm, but I just had the rears done. They need to be pressed in/out.

Your list looks good to me. You'll have to drill out three rivets in each side of the a-arm to replace the ball joints. No big deal though.

ps - tie rods are pretty cheap & easy too.
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Tiny  



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 502
Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi 356,

I'd be interested to know your findings after those changes as I have the same problem.

I read a couple of threads about the top steering bearing and collar, so am changing mine this weekend.

The plastic collar/sleeve which apparently disintegrates after time...leaving play requires changing.

I got mine here:
http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalog/porsche_924_steering.html

Will post results.
Tiny
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Tiny  



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 502
Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, it was a success. after removing the top steering bearing it was clear to see the old plastic bushing/collar was mangled and out of shape.
replacing it and the bearing race has made a good difference.

after driving the bearing in, i could have pinched the aluminium casting in to hold the bearing tight as smoothie did, but i forgot and just reassembled.

might have a go at that later ; ]
tiny
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