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flosho

I'll try to keep this simple...

This afternoon I took my car out for a drive after installing my gauge pod and gauges. Well I got about a block away, and I was going up through second gear and it cut out a bit on me, then started to buck/stutter/backfire a bit then it quit on me.

I started it back up and it sputtered some more and then I was able to take off and get going and it stayed running.. It seems as though I was almost out of gas. Now I was on E so that is a very possible solution. I was however on my way to get gas. I got to the gas station and pulled up to the pump and it started to run fine? It idled just fine and didn't stutter or anything. I threw some gas in it, I put 89 octane in instead of 92, as I usually do.

On the way home it ran fine again for the most part, I think it did the cut out thing under boost once still but other than that it ran fine...

Cut to this evening when I got home, I went out to take some pictures of my car, started it up and it started up, idled real rough and started to backfire or pop a bit then would die. Start it up, same thing, it would not stay running. I noticed that it seemed to be blowing something out of the exhaust, oil or something :S.. as I noticed it on the shop vac that happend to be sitting behind the exhaust area... but would only do this when it was sputtering and idling rough. So I'm like wth, and decide to take it for a drive(after about 20 min of it sitting I decided this). I start it up turn left out of my drive way, give it some gas, shift, gas, everythings fine. I turn the corner and drive and everything seems to be fine.

Then next thing I know, it starts sputtering and backfiring and popping real bad, worse than before. It stopped on me, and I tried to restart it, and it wouldn't start, it cranked and wouldn't start.. I let it sit a minute and cranked it up and it fired up, but was still sputtering and popping, I gave it some gas to get the revs up and eventually it would smooth out and I got it to go (otherwise if I tried to drive it while sputtering the car would just buck and not move forward very well). Anyways I eventually got it to go again after it started sputtering and backfiring yet again.. I shut the car off, go under the hood, wiggled the plug wires, the overboost switch, the ground off the back the charge tube and the ignition coil wire... I start it up and it runs rough still, idling like crap, I gave it some gas and it started to smooth out and I basically took off slipping the clutch from 4000 RPMs, well I got back around the block and pull into the drive way and what do you know, it idles perfectly right at 1000rpm... Rev it up, comes right back down, smooth as silk(well at least 100x then before).

So... Any ideas what this could be? It ran good other than the car cutting out under harder acceleration in the last few days.. The only difference is I installed the gauges and rewired the cd player in the car, I really don't think this would have any effect on how the car is running?

Oh one more thing, I did notice the vacuum was much lower than normal, it was around 12 in hg, when its normally about 16-17 at idle and 20 in hg on decelleration.

This car has me stumped, its always something kicking my ass with this thing, I also noticed its now leaking oil from around the oil filter, its on the line coming from the bottom of the oil pan, or from the dist. block by the oil filter..

Well if you read all that, any comments?
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Smoothie · Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 8:23 pm Post subject:

It could be the DITC 12 pin connector problem. It sounds exactly like it except that you didn't mention if the tach needle was flopping around at the same time - if so, it's just about a definite yes. To remedy the situation, unplug and reseat the connector (rectangular, 12 pins, on the side of the DITC box, accessible from your drivers side footwell). It tends to happen in wet/humid conditions. When it does, just unplug-reseat and it can be good for a year or so. For a more permanent fix you can disassemble the connector and very slightly squeeze each terminal so they grab the pins tighter.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."

'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

flosho · Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 1:57 am Post subject:

Well the tach needle wasn't exactly flopping but it was fluttering according to the crappy idle.. but I wouldn't say it was a flopping/flickering caused by something electrical, more so just telling exactly what the engine is doing.

Something I noticed the last few days, seems like my car likes to retain moisture. I noticed the boxes for my gauges were soggy and the instructions were soggy too. Like they were damp and it wouldn't dry out.. Is this normal for these cars or is there something I could do to solve this? The temps have been down around 30 degrees maybe lower at nite and 40-50 during the day, so maybe its just the weather?
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[This Space For Rent]

Smoothie · Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 2:49 am Post subject:

The backfiring/cutting out can also be caused by connector problems elsewhere like at the ignition module (aka- "trigger switch" on the wheel well).
I've never heard of the problem being with the 12 pin DITC connector without the tach needle also flopping wildly, but it's too easy not to try, so just unplug-replug it.

The damp interior is a common problem, but it should be fixed if you can..
There are plenty more topics on it, but here are a few -

numbbers · Posted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:14 am Post subject:

Well, if your humitity has been way up, that may account for your moisture problem. Check the inside of your distributor cap, it may just be wet in there. If it is, just spray it with WD-40.
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1980 924 Turbo