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fergie
Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Posts: 72 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 2:25 pm Post subject: Valve adjustments |
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Having some trouble with adjusting my valve lash or clearances on a 2.0 n/a. I can fit a .004" feeler guage between the cam lobe and tappet on the intake valves and it feels kind of loose. So i turn the adjusting screw a little bit in either direction and it kind of springs back to where it was. If i turn the screw far enough that it doesnt spring back, the clearance is too tight. Theres nowhere I can set the adjuster that the right clearance is maintained, without the screw turning itself to what feels like a flat spot or something on it, which then sets the clearance to like .006".
All of my intake valves are like this, and it seems ok because its only about .002" over what it should be... except for my number 1 cylinder intake valve. This one has no clearance no matter what i do with the adjusting screw, i cant even fit a .0015" guage in there. Is this possibly going to cause my valve to not seal all the way when its up to temperature? I havent noticed anything wrong with the way its running but it doesnt seem very good to have no clearance here. Maybe i am just missing something with the whole valve adjustment process. _________________ 1996 Honda del Sol Si Turbo
1977.5 Porsche 924 (for sale) |
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Dans931
Joined: 20 Jan 2006 Posts: 45 Location: Baltimore
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Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 4:56 pm Post subject: valves |
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In the tech section, there are pictures of the adjusting screws and lifters. These may give you a better idea of how they work. Normally, the tapered flat side of the adjuster faces down against the valve. As you turn it to adjust the valve, the thicker threaded part passes over the valve; the tension you feel is actually the valve opening. You must rotate the screw one complete turn in either direction to get back to the flat side of the screw. Turning clockwise should decrease clearance and vice-versa. It is not always possible to get the valves perfect. If valve or seat grinding has ever been done, it may be impossible to get the clearance right without changing the screw; different thicknesses are made which are identified by the number of marks on the screw. Pictures and part numbers of these are in the tech section. Also, its a good idea to check for wear o the cam lobe and at the tip of the valve. Yes, running with the valves too tight will damage the cam and lifter, burn the valve, and cause a loss of compression. 0.0015 is certainly way too tight. First make sure the cam is in the right position with the lobe facing up and away from the lifter. You WILL damage the engine if this is not corrected fast. Try running the adjusting screw all the way out to see if the clearance loosens up but do not turn the engine if the screw is protruding! I have filed screws down to make them thinner, but don't recommend it. You may want to remove the screw to see if it is damaged with concave spots or breakage. PM if you need any help.
Daniel |
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fergie
Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Posts: 72 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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I cant seem to find the pictures that you are talking about. It would help alot if I could see how these adjusting screws work a little better.
Are you saying that if I keep turning the screw out it will give more clearance? I thought that the adjuster was like an eccentric cam that would be in the same place every time I turned it one complete rotation. All of my intake valves are set to where its on the flat side of the screw, anywhere else and they are too tight, with no clearance at all. My #1 cylinder valve is too tight and is also set to the flat side of the screw.
the exhaust valves are all ok though, right around .0016" to .0018" _________________ 1996 Honda del Sol Si Turbo
1977.5 Porsche 924 (for sale) |
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fergie
Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Posts: 72 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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OK i saw the picture of the screw... i think i understand this now. So i turn the screw counterclockwise to make more clearance, and the flat side (where the screw springs itself to) is supposed to be against the valve when the clearance is set....
I had a completely different idea before, thanks for helping me figure this out. _________________ 1996 Honda del Sol Si Turbo
1977.5 Porsche 924 (for sale) |
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Mike924

Joined: 12 Aug 2004 Posts: 2601 Location: IoW UK
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Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 6:23 pm Post subject: |
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Remember that the adjusters need to be rotated one whole turn at a time, not just so they don't spring back, but all the way until they 'click' into the next position.
One turn of the adjuster should give you 0.002" IIRC, so getting the specifed clearance should always be possible, unless some of your adjusters are in past their working range, in which case you'll need the next size up, which is a real PITA to fit... _________________ 1985 Porsche 924 'Lux', Kalahari Beige (my ex)
1993 Porsche 968 Coupe, Midnight Blue, 6 spd
'There is no substitute for a little grease under your fingernails.' - Chrenan, 924board.org |
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fergie
Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Posts: 72 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | Remember that the adjusters need to be rotated one whole turn at a time, not just so they don't spring back, but all the way until they 'click' into the next position.
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Yep, I understand this now. Thanks again for clearing this up before I made even more troubles for myself  _________________ 1996 Honda del Sol Si Turbo
1977.5 Porsche 924 (for sale) |
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