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head gasket replacement

 
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doomer77  



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 266
Location: Huskvarna, Sweden

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 6:09 am    Post subject: head gasket replacement Reply with quote

is this a repair that is possible to do yourself? if so, how?
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1980 924 n/a - engine swap begun
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chris24  



Joined: 17 Jan 2005
Posts: 334
Location: boston/nottingham UK

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Done a head gasket on a similar engine, but never a 924. So "Yes" should be the answer with a bit of time and patience.

This search result may be quite useful.

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=15495
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1985 - 924 (148K miles) - mint
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fergie  



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
Posts: 72
Location: Michigan

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is a fairly straightforward procedure... disconnect everything that is attached to the head, remove the intake manifold, unbolt the downpipe from the exhaust manifold, and pull the head bolts.

Lining up the new gasket while reinstalling the head is alot easier with two people. But then you just torque the head back down and reconnect everything and youre done.
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moone924  



Joined: 05 Feb 2003
Posts: 868
Location: Douglas Wyoming

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did it twice a few years ago. I had a haynes manual, and just went for it. I think I unbolted the downpipes from the exhaust manifold and pulled the head with the exhaust manifold attached, and re-installed with the exhaust manifold attached..... to make it easier
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Ryan Moone

Always shopping for a nice s2 931 to baby.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is easier to leave the exhaust manifold on and have it on when refitting the head.
Remove it off the head after the head is off if you want.
I refitted my exhaust manifold after replacing all the studs while on the car. A real PITA.
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doomer77  



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 266
Location: Huskvarna, Sweden

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im most worried about having to flatten the top so the gasket wont blow, what kind of tools do you need to do that?
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1980 924 n/a - engine swap begun
1989 Volvo 480ES
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moone924  



Joined: 05 Feb 2003
Posts: 868
Location: Douglas Wyoming

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

there's a tightening order that keeps the gasket flat.

You should probably get a haynes manual
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doomer77  



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 266
Location: Huskvarna, Sweden

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 3:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm, ive got a hanyes, thanks for bringing that up
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
Posts: 3903
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 3:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you mean flatten the top of the engine block? The block will have to be removed from the car and taken to a machine shop to accomplish that.
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doomer77  



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 266
Location: Huskvarna, Sweden

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats what i meant, not only flatting the gasket, but the whole top

so my question restated would be
can you flatten the top of the engine block at home and what tools do you need?

an alternative might be to buy a new top thats been pre flattened, whats the status on that?
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Why drink and drive when you can smoke and fly?
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1980 924 n/a - engine swap begun
1989 Volvo 480ES
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
Posts: 3903
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are worried about the top of the engine block being warped (not flat), remove the entire engine, strip it down, and bring the block to a machine shop. I'm not sure what you would need at home to do it yourself, but my guess is very few people would have the tools...
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fergie  



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
Posts: 72
Location: Michigan

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You shouldnt worry about the blocks straightness for the gasket to seal. It is made of cast iron, and i really doubt its going to warp before the aluminum head melts off or something.

However, using a straight edge and feeler guage, check the sealing surface on the bottom of the head to make sure it is within tolerance, as according to your haynes manual. After a certain amount of use it is likely to warp the cylinder head a little, and should be resurfaced.
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helowrench  



Joined: 25 Nov 2004
Posts: 44
Location: Dallas

PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While you have the head off you miight want to replace the water hoses that are between the engine and the firewall. I do not know if they can actually be changed with the head on. I changed ALL of my hoses and had the radiator cleaned/cored/tested and changed the water pump when I did the head so I could have a little peace of mind about the cooling system.
If I remember correctly I left both the intake and exhaust manifolds on the head and removed them after the head was off.

Good luck
Rob
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Dans931  



Joined: 20 Jan 2006
Posts: 45
Location: Baltimore

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 6:35 pm    Post subject: head gasket Reply with quote

The N/A is alot easier to change than the turbo. Use a turbo headgasket, they are stronger. Replacing those hoses is a great idea; it is so hard to get back there. Check your exhaust manifold for cracks. All the torque specs you need will be in the Haynes. Also replace the o rings on the injectors and the timing belt. Its a good idea to have the head checked out at a shop and have valve stem seals put in.
Daniel

82 931 (8.5/1 compression)
84 Jetta Diesel (23/1 compression)
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Dans931  



Joined: 20 Jan 2006
Posts: 45
Location: Baltimore

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 6:36 pm    Post subject: head gasket Reply with quote

The N/A is alot easier to change than the turbo. Use a turbo headgasket, they are stronger. Replacing those hoses is a great idea; it is so hard to get back there. Check your exhaust manifold for cracks. All the torque specs you need will be in the Haynes. Also replace the o rings on the injectors and the timing belt. Its a good idea to have the head checked out at a shop and have valve stem seals put in.
Daniel

82 931 (8.5/1 compression)
84 Jetta Diesel (23/1 compression)
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