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Gas gauge doesn't work

 
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stexch  



Joined: 05 Dec 2003
Posts: 90
Location: Mankato, KS, USA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 2:01 am    Post subject: Gas gauge doesn't work Reply with quote

Are there any simple things to try to get the gas gauge working before pulling the gas tank?
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loads.

Clean up the earths/grounds next to the relay board.
Check the connections to the fuel gauge sender.
Check the ground at the sender end.
Ground the G wire at the sender end (gauge should read full) to see if it's a sender problem or a wiring problem.
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doomer77  



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 266
Location: Huskvarna, Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have a smiliar problem, i suspect that the gauge grounding is lose as it will jump from 'real' position to half full now and then whenever going over a rocky road.
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stexch  



Joined: 05 Dec 2003
Posts: 90
Location: Mankato, KS, USA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine just says half-full all the time.
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doomer77  



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 266
Location: Huskvarna, Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

very much like a grouding trouble, try pulling the gauge and trace the ground wires and see if theres a brake anywhere, do you have the haynes manual (good wiring schematics)?
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Why drink and drive when you can smoke and fly?
Carpe diem. and if that doesnt work; get drunk!

1980 924 n/a - engine swap begun
1989 Volvo 480ES
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stexch  



Joined: 05 Dec 2003
Posts: 90
Location: Mankato, KS, USA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I have the Haynes manual, but wiring intimidates me. I'll pass these ideas on to my mechanic. Thanks!
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doomer77  



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 266
Location: Huskvarna, Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dont do that! that whats they want you to do..

wiring is very simple, its the ultimate of logic, just find the source of electricity and you can follow it through a strait line, no hazzles. so at least give it a try
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Why drink and drive when you can smoke and fly?
Carpe diem. and if that doesnt work; get drunk!

1980 924 n/a - engine swap begun
1989 Volvo 480ES
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924er  



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 339
Location: Los Angeles California

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mines was borken for about 5 months, suddenly i hit a really big jump and after that its worked again, so hit a mean bump!
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numbbers  



Joined: 05 Nov 2002
Posts: 1910
Location: Highlands Ranch, Colorado

PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, you all seem to have the common fuel sender problem, and the fix is easy. The sender varnishes up from these cars being left sitting for long periods of time. All you have to do, is remove your hatch carpet, and sound deading material. You will find an access bung to your fuel tank, with a couple of wires on it. Use a hammer and screwdriver to remove the bung. I unscrews CCW. The fuel sender comes out with the bung. Please, no smoking. You will see that the sender is composed of a tapered wrapped wire, and a slider connected to the float. Just clean the wrapped wire and the slider with very fine sandpaper (1000 grit), and bend the slider so that it makes good tight contact with the wrapped wire, and put it back together. Your guage will work fine.
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
Posts: 957
Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

numbbers wrote:
Well, you all seem to have the common fuel sender problem, and the fix is easy. The sender varnishes up from these cars being left sitting for long periods of time. All you have to do, is remove your hatch carpet, and sound deading material. You will find an access bung to your fuel tank, with a couple of wires on it. Use a hammer and screwdriver to remove the bung. I unscrews CCW. The fuel sender comes out with the bung. Please, no smoking. You will see that the sender is composed of a tapered wrapped wire, and a slider connected to the float. Just clean the wrapped wire and the slider with very fine sandpaper (1000 grit), and bend the slider so that it makes good tight contact with the wrapped wire, and put it back together. Your guage will work fine.


See this article from the tech section
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Silver '82 924 NA 5-Speed Manual
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BE CAREFUL treat the thin wires with caution not that theyll break easy though if your rough with them they will.

I know what its like to not have a fuel guage I pulled my sender and cleaned the wires and made a fresh ground wire to the sender
and it worked.
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ATL_racer  



Joined: 09 Aug 2005
Posts: 97
Location: Atlanta, GA USA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The sending unit inside the gas tanks on our cars is a poor design and can easily get stuck/ read the wrong amount of gas. Older ones can often get gunked up and just stop working. You dont have to pull to tank to replace it. Best bet is the ground or wiring if not your sender is probably broken.
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Matt Norton  



Joined: 14 Apr 2006
Posts: 196
Location: Montour Falls/Watkins Glen NY

PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see any wires back there under my carpet. Are we talking about the column that houses the filler spout? I have a white piece of cloth over a spot just to the right of center is that where the sender is. My gauge works but it jumps around a bit and moves to the beat of my stereo when I turn it up. I was thinking about regroundiing the fuse box and was looking for the thread but haven't found it yet.

What causes the box to go up in smoke? is it poor grounding or what?
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Brockoli  



Joined: 06 Feb 2007
Posts: 621
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

stexch - i agree wiring is intimedating, but the Haynes manul makes it very easy, even tho it doesnt look like it. Take a look at the wiring schematics in Haynes manual, each colored plug has numbers on it 1-20 i think. The haynes manual has the corresponding number and color of the plug on the schematics, it took me awhile to realize it, the numer and color are about 1/4 the way down the page, if that made any sense.

Anyways, i just had my fuel sending unit out this weekend. It absolutely did not work. I tried the haynes manaul procedure for checking and nothing! So i put it in CLR for a while and let it soak, gave it a good rinse with water and now it works The 15 year old gas must of clogged it (and everything else in my fuel system). I would also try replacing/cleaning the grounds. And CLR is $7 at Home Depot. I also used it on my intank pump and it works again too!!!
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D Hook  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 3158
Location: Omaha, NE

PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The BEST thing about all the excellent advice given up to this point is that you do NOT have to pull the tank to work on the sender! Even if you have to buy a new sender, don't let the mechanic tell you he needs to pull the tank out to replace it. It's all accessible from the top.

Senders sometime pop up on ebay from time to time.
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