augidog
Joined: 03 Mar 2003
Posts: 1360
Location: New Jersey
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 Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2005 11:09 am Post subject: oil pan in car removal 2 |
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This is why this Forum is so great!!!
Without this past post I would have been lost.
I made some additions in quotes.
thanks 1982 porsche 924!!!!!!!!
Plan a weekend--- It is the toughest job I did on the car so far..
Save yourself some aggravation. REMOVE THE UPPER BELL HOUSING BOLT FIRST!!!! If you strip it at least you can bow out gracefully without being totally commited
| 1982Porsche924 wrote: |
REMOVAL OF CROSSMEMBER
In order to have access to removing the pan, a couple of things have to come out. The steering rack, crossmember and sway bar need to be dropped, not too hard, and especially easier if you have an impact wrench.
1. Undo the tie rod ends. The collet pin comes out, then undo the nut, and go at it with a pickle fork. Heating up the parts might help out, but a pickle fork and sledge worked fairly well for me, and took minimal effort.(turn the wheel in and out until you get a straight drop, a couple of taps with a hammer should work without a pickle fork)
2. Remove the sway bar, 4 bolts, easy to do.( I left in the sway bar and just droped the a arms. The radiator hose was in the way of the sway and it never came into play of the pan )
3. Undo the steering rack, there are 4 bolts that attack it to the crossmember, and one that connects it to the steering column, the bolt on the steering column must come ALL THE WAY out, loosening it will not allow the column to be disconnected. Then, undo the two large bolts that hold the a-arms to the crossmember.
4. Removing the crossmember is fairly easy, undo the O2 sensor, and the points where the wire is attached to the crossmember, then go for the vibration damper, there should be 2 nuts, and a deep socket works best., the vibration damper might turn, if then, hold it down with some vice grips, and you should be good, then undo the 4 bolts that attach the crossmember to the frame rails. Now you are ready to work on the oil pan.
REMOVAL OF OIL PAN
(Before you attempt any bolts on the lower pan ----do the upper bell housing bolt first!!!!!! It is a royal pain and took me all day. The combination I used was a smallest extension for my 3/8 drive , a 17mm socket and a 2 foot 3/4 copper pipe cut to slide over the ratchet for leverage. the 3/4 may only be on the 924s.)
Removing the oil pan isn't too hard, but there was one bolt that gave me trouble. There are around 7 bolts (too lazy to go downstairs and count the number of holes) holding each side of the oil pan to the block, and the front, the back, and the second to back bolts are different sizes, you need to mark them off. The rest of the bolts are the same size.
1. Remove all of the bolts, there is one on the higher side of the oil pan that is hard to reach because of the motor mount, use a regular allen (loosen the motor mount to the engine for more clearance but do not remove it.There are 2 bolts under it ) and turn it about 1/4 of a turn at a time, remove allen, insert, and turn another 1/4 till it's out. Takes a long time, but there is no other way, all the other bolts can be done with a regular ratchet (i used air ratchet, saves time) and some require extenders.(double extenders with a 5mm and 6mm allen wrench socket)
2. There are 3 bolts that hold the oil pan to the bellhousing, 2 are easy to reach and you will know them when you see them, both are easily accessible from the bottom of the car. Then there is the one bolt that shows how much the engineers love you (sarcasm). This bolt is hard to access, and you will most definetly need a friend to help you. Accessibilty is only from the bottom, and your friend will need to help guide you from the top, it is next to the hole to do the timing on the bellhousing. Use a breaker bar and 3/4 inch socket,( ?? mine was 17mm) go from the bottom of the car, inserting the bar on the drivers side of the drive shaft, and have your friend tell you where the bolt is, break the bolt and then you can use an air ratchet or a close ratio hand ratchet, most regular ratchets don't have the range of motion to get the bolt out.
3. Pop off the oil pan, shake it a little, might need some help out, and scrape off the old gasket. The old gasket is most likely caked onto the block, and a couple of razor blades should do the trick, but it takes a long time. be careful around the oil pump, because it is made of aluminum rather than the harder cast iron of the block, and scratches fairly easily. When you are scraping off the old gasket, make sure none of the shavings land on the crankshaft, covering it might be a good idea.
INSTALLATION OF PAN
Unlike removing the engine, and placing it on a stand, gravity is against you on installing the new gasket, and it shifts if not done properly, resulting in a messy problem.
1. Apply sealant to the engine block side of the gasket. Figure out the side that needs to have sealant, and don't place any of the gakset sealer on the oil pan side. Place the gasket onto the block, and insert 3-4 (make sure you use the outside bolts, and 2 middle) bolts on each side of the block(the oil pan bolts) to make sure that the gasket doesn't move and gets aligned properly (No need to tighten, just place them in, and give it a couple turns). Put some pressure on the gasket, to make sure it is set against the block, and wait about 10 minutes for the sealant to get tacky. Remove the bolts, and bolt on the pan with 3-4 bolts again, nice and tight, so that the gasket seals properly. This will glue the gasket to the block, and allow it to hold when you do the rest of the job. Go get a snack, and watch TV.
2. An hour or so later, take off the pan with the 3-4 bolts that you attached it with. The gasket should now be fairly firmly attached to the block, and alignment shouldn't be an issue. Apply the sealant to the gasket (oil pan side) and pop the oil pan onto it, bolt. Attach the bolts that hold the pan to the block first, and tighten them fairly well. The bolt that is close to the motor mount will be a hassle, once again, and the same technique used to loosen it, needs to applied to tighten it. Attach the bigger bolts, but you can do this later, after the gasket sets. Make sure to use proper torque specs. I did them by feel, and I'll check the Haynes for the ones ones that hold the pan to the bellhousing. Remember to let the sealant dry for the specified time it says on the label.
Admins, if you think this procedure is good, maybe you can add it to the FAQ on 924.org. |
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1978 924 95 mile daily driver.
Audi TB/POR174M/High Flow Cat/2.25" exhaust
I knew that positive thinking thing wouldn't work. |
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924 FAQ (Technical)
