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MunkPuppy · Posted: Sat May 07, 2005 12:53 pm Post subject: Stoopid Clutch Issue

Well, here's how it goes..
I had just finished polishing up my intake charge tubes, and FINALLY got the proper-fitting bolts (one required a little modification) to hold the upper and lower tubes together. I took the car out for a short spin, and on my way back the clutch stopped working. I limped the car home safely, without grinding any gears.

Thinking that there was something wrong with the clutch master cylinder, I pulled back the carpet and saw the telltale trickle of brake fluid.

So, I called my local Lordco and had the part ordered. It arrived today. I came home with my fresh part, ready to install it. Well, I then found out that I have to remove the BRAKE master cylinder to properly access the nuts that hold in the CLUTCH master cylinder. So, that's what I did. Then, to my dismay, after pulling the clutch master cylinder out, I found out why my clutch had failed in the first place:
THE FIREWALL WHERE THE CLUTCH MOUNTS IS CRACKED SO BAD THAT THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER WAS PIVOTING UP!!! As a result, the mster cylinder piston had worn on one side to teh point of being unrepairable.

F.F.S.!!!
(pics to come, hopefully)

So now, I'm going to have to either weld in a plate, weld the cracks which will probably only last for a few months, or wait until my spare body shell has been painted and all of the systems have been transferred from the current body to the painted one.

Does anyone happen to have a template of the required plate that one would weld in?
And, would simply welding the cracks shut be safe enough to drive the car for a while?

TIA!
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'80 931 FOR SALE

"It's a shame that stupidity isn't painful"
-Anton Szandor LaVey

morghen · Joined: 21 Jan 2005 Posts: 9102 Location: Romania

i guess a good weld could hold up ok for a long time but if you're not shure that you can get some guy with experience to do it...better use another shell..
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Supercharger and EFI kits
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endwrench · Joined: 07 Dec 2002 Posts: 1631 Location: Victor, Montana

If it is cracked do to rust I would not try it. If it is do to stress you may get away with it for a few months. I would try to weld in some extra metal while in there. Try to spread the load as much as possible with brackets or braces if possible. You should be able to make a pattern form the back of the old MC.

Todd
_________________
'79 924NA. Rebuilt 9.5:1, MSDS header, Mega Squirt Injection, MJLJ-EDIS Ignition, 1.6L Whipple Charger and Intercooler, 10lbs Boost, 944 Trans, Custom HD Clutch.
"simsport" said....superchargers are better than turbos its official!....

numbbers · Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 9:09 am Post subject:

Weld the crack, and weld a plate on the inside, so it doesn't effect the mounting of the MS.
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1980 924 Turbo

Joes924Racer · Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 10:15 am Post subject:

check your pedals for side to side movement thats what
I hear happens next then the steering
collumn goes and the bearings fail I hear...THIS
has got to be the weakest area of these cars.
The firewall by the
steering collumn and pedals
its a tough call on wich side to put a plate....
inside would be tough cause of space.
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.

Ozzie · Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 11:44 am Post subject:

Numbbers is correct. Put it on the inside. The thickness wont affect the pedal travel for the MC or clutch. (you can put a real thick plate there)
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Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
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MunkPuppy · Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 12:46 pm Post subject:

the crack is stress, not rust. Lizard is going to come by with teh MIG welder tomorrow and we're going to seal up the cracks, but I'm not going to bother with teh plate since I'm going to be moving absolutely everything from the current shell to teh other as soon as I have it painted.
_________________
'80 931 FOR SALE

"It's a shame that stupidity isn't painful"
-Anton Szandor LaVey

MunkPuppy · Posted: Mon May 09, 2005 11:20 am Post subject:

Well, unfortunately, Lizard did not bring the digital camera, so I have no pictures

But, the problem is fixed, if not just temporarily. We welded the heck out of it, reinforced it with more welds, and then covered the whole area with anti-rust paint. The clutch works beautifully now, even though I haven't even bled it yet.

Unfortunately, the brake master cylinder seems to have a leak, which means that I have to either rebuild it, or replace it. I haven't priced out either yet, since Lordco closed at the exact time I called

_________________
'80 931 FOR SALE

"It's a shame that stupidity isn't painful"
-Anton Szandor LaVey

numbbers · Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 10:13 am Post subject:

Well, glad it is working.
_________________
1980 924 Turbo

MunkPuppy · Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 2:39 pm Post subject:

thanks, numbbers!
I priced out a rebuild kit at lordco, and it's $80CDN. A NEW MC costs over $320!!

Looks like I'm doing a rebuild, unless someone has an MC in good condition that they want to sell me (has to have spots for the brake switch and brake warning light switch)

_________________
'80 931 FOR SALE

"It's a shame that stupidity isn't painful"
-Anton Szandor LaVey

Joes924Racer · Posted: Fri May 20, 2005 3:53 am Post subject:

my pedals are loose .. er I need to work on the brake sys.
any way to install a later MC now just more urgently
with the switch on the pedal
though it gets worse my steering bearings on the colmn
around the firewall are shot Im thinking of doing them as well.
theres a parts car at the local bone yard. Im gonna rob it of
its steering column. maybe come the weekend.
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.