924Board.org

[earlp]

Hi Everyone,
Here's one that has me confused.
My rear locks dont seem to be engaging properly. The hatch closes but doesn't click shut, then the hatch will pop open while I'm driving.
When I take the pieces off the glass, i.e. the bits held on with 2 screws with an arrow shape sticking out it will engage in the lower parts perfectly..really positive fitting etc. But once their mounted on the hatch no joy?? Is it an allignment issue.? My gut feeling is that they dont push down far enough....I've extended the arrow pieces as much as I can...but it feels as though the rectangular part they screw into isnt going down far enough??
All advice greatly appreciated (as always).

[CMXXXI]

Those hatch pins can be bothersome. First, ensure that when you unscrew the conical part that goes into the locking mechanism, that it is actually unscrewing (and getting longer), rather than just turning. The nut on the inside of the mount is encased in rubber and can slip if it has rusted up. Next, lube the locking mechanism really well. Over time they can get gunked up and won't snap back and grab the pins like they should.

If the pins are actually extending when you unscrew them, and the locking mechanism does open and close freely, look to make sure the base of the lock pins is good and flat. If the edge is rounded it can make things difficult to actually lock onto.

If all else fails then you will have to loosen the bolts holding the lock mechanisms and do a trial and error fitting. You will note that the actual locking is done by a piece that slides in from the side. You'll need to adjust the lock assembly so it engages the pin better.
_________________
'79 Eurospec 931

[CMXXXI]

Those hatch pins can be bothersome. First, ensure that when you unscrew the conical part that goes into the locking mechanism, that it is actually unscrewing (and getting longer), rather than just turning. The nut on the inside of the mount is encased in rubber and can slip if it has rusted up. Next, lube the locking mechanism really well. Over time they can get gunked up and won't snap back and grab the pins like they should.

If the pins are actually extending when you unscrew them, and the locking mechanism does open and close freely, look to make sure the base of the lock pins is good and flat. If the edge is rounded it can make things difficult to actually lock onto.

If all else fails then you will have to loosen the bolts holding the lock mechanisms and do a trial and error fitting. You will note that the actual locking is done by a piece that slides in from the side. You'll need to adjust the lock assembly so it engages the pin better.
_________________
'79 Eurospec 931

[ideola]

[CMXXXI]

The visible nut ideola refers to is a lock nut, or a jamb nut. Yes, you need to loosen it before you try and unscrew the conical piece, but the threaded end of the conical piece screws into a nut that is embedded in the rubber mounting block. Take care when you rotate things, as you can easily "un-embed" this nut that is up in the rubber mount. Once "stripped", you can turn the conical piece all day, and it won't get any shorter or longer, all you can do is to replace the mount (different PN for left and right)

You can test how well the seal actually works using the "dollar bill test". If you are old enough to remember the energy crisis of the early '70's, you might remember one of the consumer tips that was hyped - to test all your home weatherstripping (and fridge seals too) using a dollar bill. Close your hatch on a dollar and see if you can slide it around. A good seal should not allow you to easily pull out the bill, or to move it along the edge. Open the hatch, insert the bill, secure the hatch and see how easily you can pull it out, or move it. If you can move it along the edge, it isn't sealed. You'll probably have to do this starting in several places along the entire seal, and might find it seals well in some places and not at all in others.
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'79 Eurospec 931