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While I'm at it...

 
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 3:15 pm    Post subject: While I'm at it... Reply with quote

...in the middle of changing my head gasket (special thx to local friends who are helping me thru this). I'm going to do my own basic port and polish, along with valve job. A friend of mine who is familiar with american muscle cars and NOT Porsche's was suggesting a couple of extra things.

Specifically,
How hard is it to drop the oil pan? If the pan can be dropped, can I subsequently change the rod bearings and piston rings without pulling the motor?

He also suggested having the head "hot tanked" to clean up all the goop because I want to paint it up real nice before reassembly (aluminum for the head, dark blue for the valve cover).

I will be replacing the water pump and alternator while I'm at it. Can't drive it for a month anyway, might as well work on it Any other suggestions for the "while you're at it" list???
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Roger  



Joined: 06 Jan 2003
Posts: 1235
Location: Cordova, TN

PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IIRC you need to drop the cross member. As long as you are replacing the water pump do the complete front end service and replace the timing belt tensioner and roler. Also a new thremostat is a good idea.
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Mikri184  



Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Posts: 746
Location: Ferndale, WA

PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 3:57 pm    Post subject: Hoses Reply with quote

Changes all you hoses, and rubber mounts, intake coolant tank, alternator, and a/c if you got it, the hoses are a pain to change if they burst best to take care of possibly 20 year old parts. Motor mounts, exhaust mounts. Most of these can be gotten at the Porsche dealer near you for about $30-$50 bucks. They may need to cross reference VW parts to get you replacements though. And since your probally going to drop the cross meember for the rods and pistons, might as well go to www.bowwow.com and order a set of eurathane bushings for your car. you got to order the front a arm bushings for the VW A1 rabbit or golf.
Of course this is my opion. But Hey, While your in there? Good Luck
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My924gtc  



Joined: 14 Aug 2004
Posts: 1362
Location: 248

PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil pan is simple enough. A dozen or so bolts and it is off. I assume you want to leave the crankshaft alone? Just wanting to pop the pistons up and out, clean em up, new rings and pop them back in.

While you are in the pan, clean out the oil pick-up screen for sure.
While you have the pistons out hone the cylinders to remove the ridge at the top of each.

Careful with the hot tanking the head. It can be cleaned but because of the alloy you must use the correct solvent. Do the clean up and valve job after you P&P the head so that you can wash the the residue and shavings out of the ports.

You can also polish the head. After it is clean hit it with a wire wheel, then move to buffing pads and compount. Looks purdy, but the Aluminum paint gives it a perfect satin look.
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MJ
'81 924 2.0L T
'82 924 2.3L SC/EFI <---online fall '06

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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You dont have to replace all the hose just if there not reusable
or just open your wallet. yea the pan comes off easy enough get a new pan gasket for sure you dont want leaks. the front member is easy also just take out the bolts that hold the arms in the crossmember and move them out of the way then take the steering rack off by removing the 4 bolts then theres 2 bolts on each side of the meber that hold it to the frame pull the plugs (pistons ) replace thew rings get a ring compressor
you can rent those from autozone. The rod bearings fit up on the rods easy enough then just set them down on the crank.after that make sure the ends are flush before tihghtind down on the rod caps. Have the right exstension for the pan bolts some like the couple on the ends are way up there make sure to take the care resetting the pan. I got the end of the plastic piece that fits over the ends (the circle part) caught on the crank and it tore a chunk offso when I got all done and started it up and drove out the drive and down the road I left a nice line of fresh oil. It was just a test run down the street out to a open road and down that way a block though when I returned there was no oil left. I had to redo the pan gasket.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2004 12:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thx for the recommendations. I had already completed *all* of the hoses, belts, front suspension bushings, thermostat and exhaust stuff.

Here's what's on the current "while I'm at it" list:
-alternator & alt bushings, water pump, injectors & o-rings, timing belt & tensioner, vacuum lines

I've decided to wait on the AC...still haven't decided if I even care about it...may want to eventually take it all off, depending on whether I can get it working in the spring.

I'd like to do the engine mounts, but they're really pricey, and I don't have a way to lift the engine. Still thinkin' about the lower end stuff. Hmmm....anything else I'm missing?
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My924gtc  



Joined: 14 Aug 2004
Posts: 1362
Location: 248

PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2004 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cam oil tube elbow?

Indexing washers for your spark pugs?

Head studs?

Polish your throttle body?

Extrude hone your intake manifold?

Polish/paint your intake manifold?

Install adjustable timing gear?

Stage II Cam?

10:1 CR Pistons?

Pauter Rods?

Just food for thought, I know you are not building a race car there. I'm just a bit bored so I thought I'd give you a laundry list.
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MJ
'81 924 2.0L T
'82 924 2.3L SC/EFI <---online fall '06

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Sponsor of the "2006 Battle in the Badlands"
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2004 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good laundry list!

- Cam oil tube elbow is already ordered and on the way

- What are indexing washers for the spark plugs, and what benefit do they provide? Where would I get them?

- Already planning to replace all of the head studs

- Already planning to clean, polish and paint all of the intake / TB assembly

- Can I do an extrude hone on the intake manifold myself? How? What is the benefit?

- Adjustable timing gear...something to think about...I'll inquire after one when I check on my order at Paragon, unless you want to sell me yours

- new cam, pistons and rods would be more money than I'm wanting to spend on this particular engine
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My924gtc  



Joined: 14 Aug 2004
Posts: 1362
Location: 248

PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2004 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Indexing washers are available at Preformance Products and they allow you to position the plug so the the arm is not in between the spark and the charge. They are just small copper washers.

Ex-hone has to be done at a machine shop and it smooths the interior of the intake manifold giving better flow.

Let's save the performance work for daddy's ride.
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MJ
'81 924 2.0L T
'82 924 2.3L SC/EFI <---online fall '06

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Sponsor of the "2006 Battle in the Badlands"
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Waite a minute you need a way to lify the engine.
Youll loosen one mount cant remeber wich side and the mount needs to be completely removed . "Oh I remember which side drivers side mouint
and at least on a middle year car 79 the clutch bar that the cable hooks
to was also removed. Yup I did this just because the pan was kind of difficult to get put back on the block squarly. More of a chance for
a gasket to slip. You have a hydro clutch maybe your OK.
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