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Front engine job

 
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cgoldhill  



Joined: 25 Sep 2004
Posts: 28

PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 7:53 am    Post subject: Front engine job Reply with quote

Is it possible to look at anything in the 924s motor to tell if it is in need of a front engine tune up?(oil seals, waterpump, balance shafts, blah blah blah)
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Sleykin  



Joined: 30 Apr 2003
Posts: 758
Location: Medford, Oregon USA

PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is really a time/mileage thing. If you don't know when it was done last plan on doing it ASAP and keep good records. If you have water pump or oil leaks it needs it now anyway. If the belts fail the least you will loose are the valves. The damage to the head is expensive to repair and you have to do the belts then too
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Glenn Neff
Medford, OR
87' 924S
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cgoldhill  



Joined: 25 Sep 2004
Posts: 28

PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alrighty well then i'll just have to suck it up and do it when I get the car. I've done the timing belt and water pump on my 89 BMW which was not very extensive. How hard of a job is this front engine work?
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Llamaguy  



Joined: 02 Jul 2003
Posts: 711
Location: Indiana

PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not too terrribly hard, you need a a full set of wrenches and tools obviously, I had to buy the wrenches for the balance belts and the tensioner and a set of 12 point metric internal bits. It took me from Friday night through most of Monday but wasn't "hard"
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1987 924S Guards Red
1997 Suzuki Tl1000 Supersport
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The Fife  



Joined: 17 Mar 2004
Posts: 241
Location: San Antonio, Texas

PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tools I used:
-metric wrenches
-metric allen keys
-metric allen sockets
-tripple square/cheesehead bit
-1 or 2 masonry drill bits + oil to drill out the stripped cheesehead bolt
-belt tensioner tool (I used the Krikit - $12 at Napa)
-flywheel lock - makes it SO much easier to get the crankshaft bolt out. It came from Paragon.
-flat wrench (27 or 24 mm - I forgot)
-pin wrench from Harbor Freight. This will hold the balance shaft sprockets still so you can get at the bolt in the middle. It won't work to move the spring tensioner, but it's easy to use something else to pry against it once you find the right spot to lever from.

Resources used:
http://www.clarks-garage.com
This board
http://www.rennlist.com

Things I regret not doing while I was in there:
- oil cooler seal - started leaking coolant 3 weeks after I put everything back together. I had the head off... it would've been so much easier to get at then instead of now.
- balance shaft seals. I'm still not sure if the lower is leaking since the oil was changed and the filter makes a mess because of the way it's mounted, but this would've kept me from wondering.

Advice:
Go slow and be careful. I followed the instructions on Clark's Garage to the letter (it was my 1st belt change) and everything worked out great. When I didn't understand or had a problem with something I'd post and get an answer fast. I don't think the instructions say it, but if you remove the cooling fans you'll have a lot more room to work with.
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cgoldhill  



Joined: 25 Sep 2004
Posts: 28

PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I'm gonna go shoot over to the clarks-garage website and get that guide and read up.
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

imo this isnt that bad of a job to do, however make sure that you have a 12 point 10 mm allen key and do ALL the front engine seals, balance shafts, oil pump, camshaft, everyone of them, the 12 point 10mm allen key is for the camshaft, and have something to hold the camshaft in place while you turn it as you can strip it fairly easy if you use power tools
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gohim  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 4459
Location: Rialto, CA

PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attention to the proper belt torque is CRITICAL.

You MUST use a torque wrench on the crankshaft pulley to tighten it properly, because the oil pump is driven by a gear sleeve that is held below the crankshaft pulley by friction alone. If the crankshaft pulley is not properly torqued, it will come loose, and no oil supply. Then say "GOODBYE" to the engine bearings.

Oil Cooler Seals should be replaced, but you will need a special tool to align the oil cooler housing after removing it. Otherwise, the oil pressure relief valve could hang in it's bore. The result is no oil pressure, and again, bye, bye, engine.


Last edited by gohim on Fri Nov 12, 2004 8:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
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The Fife  



Joined: 17 Mar 2004
Posts: 241
Location: San Antonio, Texas

PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lizard wrote:
and have something to hold the camshaft in place while you turn it as you can strip it fairly easy if you use power tools


The 1 1/4 inch wrench Clark's Garage recommends is perfect for this. I tried a couple other things, but none worked this well. NAPA had one for around $15. I really don't have any other uses for it except for clubbing a burgler or something.
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Llamaguy  



Joined: 02 Jul 2003
Posts: 711
Location: Indiana

PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2004 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's why it's really nice to live near a grandparent who has a ton of wrenchs and sockets, I had to borrow quite a few. I did have to buy the 12 point but I was hoping to take it back, but it got scratched, oh well.

It's definatly much easier to change the thermostat with it out of the car b/c that snap ring is a bitch.
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1997 Suzuki Tl1000 Supersport
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